question about car audio

The simple answer to your question. No it doesn't matter the type of equipment. The one thing to keep in mind, this isn't everybodies opinion just mine, there is such thing as too much bass. I really cannot stand when the bass is overpowering the actual music, especially for the music styles you listed. Anyway, you might find you have a different feel for it and that's cool, but the suggestions I give ya will be based on my choices.

Anyway moving on, as far as the music you listed, I would suggest just getting a single ten with a mono channel amp. also 3-400 on craigslist...is a little too much.

I would suggest this sub. JL w3s are great, easily one of the best subs for the price, plus it gives some range. Going as high as 500w rms for your amp, which can be any brand you like really, I'd stay away from the cheaper ones though as they are cheap to say the least. Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, JL audio, Orion, Diamond, those are some really good companies to check out amps from. You can probably get a complete brand new setup for about 300-400. This is a good match for that sub, it just happens to be a jl audio, but like I said you can match it up with whatever works for your budget.

 

For sure, if you wanna go with a w7, that's cool. W7's are awesome power, I prefer w3's it's a good balance for the way I hear my tunes. but shit man, you get a worthy amp for some w7's you could pound your trunk off

 

yeah the p-1000 will work just fine. w7's are loud as fuuuck. Anything sony for car audio sucks balls. You can use it if you want it'll get the job done, just not well imo. There's probably people out there that swear by sony though. I dunno a w7 just seems like you're shootin real high, do you have speakers with an amp is that why you want a w7 or are you running your stock speakers?

 

Check out reviews for shit you're going to buy on Crutchfield.com first. Also, if you decide to go new, they send you the equipment needed to install, like sub/amp wiring kits and in-dash mounts if you're upgrading your headunit too.

 

Your friends are right about w7's. For the price you'd pay for one w7 you coulda got a whole setup. Diamond Audio and Orion both make some of the best aftermarket speakers you can buy, JL audio is good to but for some people that's just cause everything JL makes is kinda pricey which to some people mean good all around, not always true, I'm sure you know that though. That can go hand in hand with anything electronic.

If I were you man, I'd go to a car audio store and just listen to all the different setups that they have, that way you can actually go by what you like to hear, which is what audio is all about. This way you're not buyin stuff based on opinions, since you can actually hear the different subs and find something that is gonna fit your needs at the same time. Another brand to keep in mind is Boston Acoustics, they put out a really clean sound.

You can also just go to best buy or whereever and buy a $200 sub/amp package and that will give you the extra sub sound that you crave. 500w of sub is a lot of power. even 300w is. I used to run two tens on a pos sony amp that was like 250w and that hit pretty hard. Now I run one 10 with a alpine 400w rms amp. I would say unless you wanted to go deaf or you're gonna compete in car shows, there's real no need to go higher than 500w. Trust me, Subs can cause your review mirrors to tilt down and cause rattling in places that didn't rattle before, they can also have unpleasant side effects

 

Dude.

If you get two JL W7 (which are 400+ a piece) you WILL give your self a 'massage' and possibly the people in the car next to you.

My setup was $400 and about exactly what you seem to be looking for.

I have two twelve inch 4 ohm Alpine Type R. Running 1200watts RMS with a Hifonics Bxi1210d

Alpine Type R produce a very good bass for all types of music (country, classic, rap, jazz)

their very versatile, cheap, and well reviwed (check anywhere online, they are praised)

Not as good as a w7 obviously but dude, you can get quadruple the type R's for the price of a W7 not to mention to power that w7 tyou will need a $600 amp

my amp for my type rs was $200

my suggestion: two 10 inch type R with a alpine 500 or a hifonics brutus amp (1000-1600)

 

Not worth it at IMO. Kenwood amps blow. Kicker subs.. meh. Their powerful as far as SUB PRESSURE LEVEL goes but not SOUND QUALITY.

Subwoofers have two traits. SPL and SQ. Like Indica and sativa most people prefer a blend of both (type r is a perfect blend of both) while kickers are generall SPL (loud pressure) instead of quality thumps.

Hope this helps. Go with alpine/JL!!!

 

No problem, I was taught the same way so I dont mind passing on the knowledge.

The package looks legit. Its exactly what i have, 2 twelve 4 ohm. (i have different amp although that alpine 500 may be better)

If two twelves are what you are looking for. I would say go for it if you really would like to buy local (you save time and possibly money with the box already wired to the subs)

Lets see what you're saving here.

Subs are $130 each so $260 new
Amp is $150 new
Box id say $30

So in the end.. no not a good deal for used subs considering you can get the whole package NEW for the same price.

But, if you want it quick, and the guy can test them so you can hear them, then I would say go for it otherwise order the setup yourself. I would be willing to help.

 

Ill.....

What are you looking for as far as bass response? Are you going for dB or SQ?
What kind of vehicle?

I can help you out, a lot.

I'd recommend staying away from any 4 Ohm setups from the get go, as you're not going to have the top end high power bass (or low-end depending on how you look at it) no matter what you do. A 4 Ohm sub simply doesn't have the muscle.

Adding to that, stay away from CL and used equipment as a general rule (90% of the time used equipment is a mistake).

Gonna PM you my cell so if you want you can hit me up.

Years of experience as a store manager/salesman/installer and competitor regarding high end car audio.

 

Yo, not knocking or lookin for a battle..

But whats up with the "4 ohm has no muscle"

I run dual 4 ohm DVC Type R and I dont seem to have any problem with muscle. Ive heard 2 ohm's as well and can tell almost zero difference.

If the 4 ohms didnt supply enough power why would they sell them? And sell them for the same price as 2 ohm models?

also, I got the 4 ohm so I could bridge two of them to work at 1 ohm with my amp

 

First of all you are comparing apples to oranges.

W7 = specialized 3 Ohm subs

Alpine Type R = consumer end low output 4 ohm subs

Car stereo equipment is not interchangeable as some people see.

 

Umm... I didnt say they were close. I said dont get the w7s because they are ridiculously over priced and he could get 4 of what he wants and not some crazy expensive sub for his jazz music...

Type r is 4 and 2 ohm... You'd think you would know that

My ENTIRE setup including wiring and the enclosure was as much as ONE w7.

Waste of money, my setup is fine for what I need and definately fine for what illadelphin needs which is a clean sounding budget friendly system for not listening to rap.

 

It's a matter of power handling and resistance.

The lower the Ohm rating = lower nominal resistance = more dynamic power.
You have to have equipment that can take advantage of the differences, and do it right.

Your system probably has some fine sounds, but it simply does not have the available power in a 4 ohm configuration to compete with a 2 or 1 ohm setup.

And if you have 2 dual 4 Ohms DVC Type R's then you likely have them wired to 2 Ohm at each sub, yes if you then ran them in paralell you'd have a 1 ohm signal which neither your amp or subs could handle. Trust me those Alpines @ 1 ohm would be on fire before you knew it.

More likely is this:
Because these subwoofers are dual voice coil and the amplifier is a mono amp, you will need to wire the two voice coils in series, which will present a 4 Ohm impedance for each subwoofer. You can then wire each subwoofer in parallel to the mono channel amplifier to get a nominal 2 Ohm impedance. This is a load your subwoofers and amp could handle.

Again, not near the dynamic power a true 1 ohm system would have.