QB132 + QB11 Veg Fixture - Need wiring double-check

I've got a small 2x2 - 2x3 area 32" tall enclosed on some utility shelving that I use for starting seedlings, cloning, and early vegging. Basically, its a grow box that I use to get a jumpstart on growing while my last crop is flowering in the tent. I'm putting together a small light fixture using 2x QB132 3500K, an HLG-240H-C2100B driver, and potentiometer. I was thinking that it would be cool to boost the blue light and came across the HLG QB11 blue strips. I want to run everything off the same driver, but the problem is, the QB11s max at 1400mA. If I wire 2 QB11s in parallel into the series circuit will the current for the strips split (2100mA/2 = 1050mA) while maintaining 2100mA for the boards? I need someone more knowledgeable than me to double check my work. Attached is a diagram of what I'm thinking.

Additional questions:
- How well would a system like this would work for veg?
- Is a heatsink necessary/recommended, or would the aluminum frame suffice if I mounted the strips directly to it? I've got a bunch of 1.25x1.25x.125" aluminum angle left over from other projects that I was thinking of using for the frame.

Any help would be appreciated. Keep 'em green.

 

Am I correct in my thinking that with a constant current driver the voltages of the loads do not have to match? In other words, you can put 3v and 36v lights together in the same series so long as the sum of their voltages doesn't exceed the constant current region for the driver. In this case, the total voltage should be roughly 108v (36 for each qb132 and 36 for the pair of qb11s) which is within the constant current region of the 240h-c2100 (59-119v). I ask because the qb11 reds appear to be about 30-32v and, if the above is true, you could theoretically add paralleled pairs to a similar setup made for flowering. Specifically, I'm thinking about 4xqb132 + 4xqb11 red (208v) driven off an hlg-480h-c2100 (constant current range=114-229v). I have no plans to do this since it's probably not necessary and my tent is used for both veg and flower which would necessitate being able to switch off the reds independently, but I enjoy coming up with possibilities.

Also, I hear you on dimming the current on the qb132s below 2100mA. I have no plans to push them that hard. My space will be so small I'll probably be running them real soft which is why I went with the b version of the driver.

 

Now I've got myself thinking which can be dangerous. Referring to the diagram in the original post, If you inserted a single pole double throw switch between the last qb132 and the qb11s tying throw 1 to the qb11s and throw 2 into the negative going to the driver you could switch the qb11s on and off. Going further, if you put a single pole triple throw in there and added both qb11 blues and qb11 reds, you could end up with a regular light with both veg and bloom boosters. You'd have to be careful with driver selection, but it's possible. I think 2xqb132 + 2xqb11 would work with the hlg-240h-c2100, and 4xqb132 + either 2 or 4xqb11 would work with the hlg-480h-c2100.

Interesting idea if you want to add some red or blue to the standard 4xqb132 setup.

 

I'm bored and procrastinating on everything I should be doing, so I mapped out the 2 board and 4 board systems with both red (qb18) and blue boosters (qb11). I make no claims that this should be done, has any benefit, or is the best way to do it. For example, it may be better to put the boosters on their own driver so you can dim them independently. Or, maybe its overkill to have that many supplemental strips and they should be cut in half. I'm just having fun coming up with ideas and thought others might be interested.

 

Thanks for looking over it for me. The design in the original post is still valid, but I doubt it's worth the trouble and cost to construct the more complicated fixtures. I was just having fun cooking it up in my head. The biggest problem with the complicated fixtures is I'm not sure how you'd construct that sp3t switch. I'd need to have someone with a lot more knowledge than me do it because I doubt you can find that off the shelf. From what I understand, DC switching is a whole lot more difficult than AC and there aren't as many options out there for components that will do up to 240VDC. You're starting to get into specialty stuff and would be better off just buying some cheap small drivers and isolating the strips.

I do think I'm going to go ahead with adding the blue strips to the little veg fixture I'm putting together, though. It's minimal cost since I have the capacity on the driver and it doesn't require anything else. Since there aren't any qb132 boards available above 3500k, it'll allow me to skew the spectrum to a cooler temp. If I hate it, I'll just take them out. The same easy upgrade could be made to an existing fixture being dedicated to flowering by sdding the red strips, but you could also just choose a 2700k board when building new. I went a little off topic, but this was the point of the original post.