QB132 First time LED build

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by jay719, Aug 23, 2019.

  1. #1 jay719, Aug 23, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2019
    I want to take time and thank everyone who helped me out so much with information to make this build possible. There is a ton of great info here at gc and some awesome people to help out.

    This project started when I had an opportunity to get some free drivers, wiring, and a few other things. Getting the stuff free greatly reduced my cost and made a diy led build much more affordable. All together I have around $350 in the fixture.

    The build utilizes eight qb132 boards. Each set of four is powered by a hlg-320h-36a driver wired in parallel. The d/c side wiring is 18 ga solid wire, and I used wago 221 connectors for the d/c side splices. The a/c side is fed by a 14 gauge cord and connected by wire nuts inside the junction box in center with strain reliefs on all connections coming in to the box. I am currently running them at 200w per set for veg, but will likely bump them up to 300w per set for flower. The meters are awesome for a newb and keep me from having to break out the multi meter for adjustments. Props to Soil2Coco for posting his in one of the LED threads. The frame is 1" x 1/8th angle and measures 36 x 38, with the boards in a 36 x 36 area. The fixture is meant to cover roughly a 4 x 4 grow.

    That is about all I can think of to add, so thanks again to everyone who helped.

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  2. Nice work looks awesome.
     
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  3. Thank you
     
  4. #4 jay719, Aug 23, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2019
    For any other new builders out there I want to mention two mistakes I made in the build process.

    First was the frame. Four qb132 boards side by side came to roughly 35.5 inches. For my frame I bought 36 inch precut aluminum angle for the hardware store. I bolted the corners to make a square and the installed the angle pieces from side to side in order to make the other side of the mount for my boards. Then I drilled holes next to the corner for eye hooks to use as hanger points. What I failed to realize is that since the metal overlaps in the corners, my useable space from side to side was reduced to 34.25 inches. When I placed my boards on the frame, the side to side pieces were too short to place all four boards. At that point it would have meant either extending the bars from side to side, finding a way to remove the corner bolts and hangers, or building a new frame. I opted for the latter and built a new frame with 38" side to side pieces and 36" pieces running front to back. I plan to build another fixture with less boards so at least the frame wasnt a complete waste.

    The second mistake was in ordering the meters. They are Bayite meters from Amazon. They are available in two different styles. One style is design to be mounted to a non conduxting surface because it has an external shunt. This is the one I ordered first. The other type has an internal shunt. I returned the first order and got the internal shunt meters instead. Even if you are mounting your drivers somewhere that you could use the external shunt, the internal design is much more simple to wire.
     
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  5. Very nice and clean build! :metal:
    I really like that junction box you got in the middle, nice touch.
     
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  6. Thank you.

    Since I was installing two drivers from a single 110 feed I wanted some way to make sure that the wires wouldn’t be pulled when raising and lowering the fixture. I am also not fond of exposed wires if they can be avoided. The downside is that width of the junction box required me to move the rails it is mounted to further apart, which made it where I couldn’t use the mounting tabs on the drivers. They are still sitting on the rails, just not enough to use the tabs. I could have cut some more pieces to run from front to back between the rails and mounted the drivers using the tabs but that would have also meant having to drill holes on each end to feed the wires through. By that point I was kind of over cutting and drilling though and zip ties made a functional alternative. Next time I will probably modify that center section somehow so that I can get the drivers bolted down to the frame.
     
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  7. Amazing build! I just bought a 4 pack of QB132 that makes a total of 6 QB132 that I have (I had two from a previous build).
    I wanted to ask about the bayite display. The way I understand, I need a 36a driver NOT A 2100a to use with the display. Correct?
    I may have a few more questions if you don't mind. I have done multiple cob and led builds, but I want to get it perfect the first time. Nothing worse than going on GC the day after you finish a build...look and see an idea...and say, "shit I should have done that".
    Thanks,
    Tommy
     
  8. As far as the display, it will work with whatever driver you choose. You simply take the dc outputs from your driver, connect them to inputs on the display and then use wires to run from the output of your display to your quantum boards. If running series, just wire them up like you would if it was coming straight from the driver, if wiring parallel then just split your dc output after the display.

    I never mind any questions but am new to building led setups as well, so if it is beyond my knowledge I may have to differ you to someone else.
     
  9. Here is a pic of the girls, bloody skunk and Trainwreck autoflowers. They were started under metal halide, I think they would be much better had they been started under the led fixture. I have 8 qb132's arriving today in 4k to build a veg light so the next run will be all led.
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  10. Yeah I have a nice MH I use for veg in the winter. But right now things are too hot. That blue light really helps in the stretch. How long do you run with veg light? I ran my MH last winter until about week 3 of flower. Then switched over to my 3500k led's. The plants were stacked with little to no space between nodes. I veg under 3500k in the summer.
     
  11. Generally I veg autoflowers under a 20-4 light cycle. These had to be cut down to 18-6 for a few weeks due to mid-day heat. I am not sure if it was my bulb ( which was new) or what but the 3k quantum boards seem to veg better than my 600w metal halide. I cant wait to see what the 4k setup will do for veg.
     
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  12. Well if your new light is like the one above it will be killer. It is way better looking than my first DIY LED attempt for sure. Post a picture of the new one once you get it done!
    Thanks for all your help.
     
  13. There are one or two things that I may tweak a little for the new light but for the most part I am going to build it exactly the same. I got the boards yesterday and will be picking up materials to build the frame today. It is going to be 8 qb boards running on two hlg-240h-36b drivers. I still have to order dimmer and the displays, but it should be done by middle of next week. I thought about doing a full writeup on the diy. Do you think that would be helpful to anyone?
     
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  14. Where did you buy the 132 boards? I haven't been able to find them lately.
     
  15. Thank you for the information. At the end of the day I just felt more confortable paying a little extra and getting boards from hlg.

    The boards that you linked are a couple of generations behind in diodes, but I am sure will work well.
     
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  16. Yeah, I just needed some in 6500k to veg with, and to work with my existing QB 132s ,which are in 2700k and in 3500k ...so,yes, not the 'latest and greatest' ,but fits my needs....for Vegging...
     
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  17. QB132 V1 Quantum Boards
    They are back on HLG. I'm thinking about grabbing another pack!
     
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  18. Just bought a bunch of them. If you email them you may get a coupon code if you ask nicely !!
     
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  19. #20 jay719, Sep 30, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
    I am going to do a tutorial as I build the new fixture. Here is the supply and tool list so far. I will add to it as work through the build

    This is just how I choose to do it, there is nothing wrong from deviating if you dont have access to the same tools or hardware.
    Tools
    1) A drill and set of drill bits
    2) A square - I use a rafter square from harbor freight
    4-in-1 Aluminum Rafter Angle Square
    3) A hacksaw with a metal cutting blade
    4) A miter box
    5) A tape measure
    6) Wire strippers
    7) A pair of side cutters
    8) Soldering iron and heat shrink tube - Only needed if using an external dimmer (potentiometer)


    Hardware
    1) 12 5/16 machine screws or bolts
    2)20 5/16th nuts
    3) 20 5/16 washers
    4) 32 #6 x 3/4 machine screws with nuts
    5) 72" inches of chain
    6) 3 Wire nuts
    7) 2 5-way wago connectors
    8) 16 guage solid core wire
    9) DC Display meter(s) with built in stunts - Optional - 1 per driver - I ordered these

    10) 6 pieces of 48 x 1 x 1/16th aluminum angle - Will cut down to 38 inches each.p
    11) 2 pieces of 36 x 1 x 1/16th aluminum angle
    13) 4 5/16th bolts with eye hooks
    14) 6 small caribiners or clip hooks
    14) 2 100k potentiometers - Only needed because I am using hlg-240h-36b drivers - not needed with a or ab drivers, I am not sure about c drivers. With b drivers you can either run one potentiometer per driver, or hook multiple drivers up to a single potentiometer. If hooking multiple drivers to a single potentiometer, divide 100k by the number of drivers in order to determine resistance needed. 1 driver = 100k, two drivers = 50k, three drivers = 33k and so on. I am getting two 100k because I have two drivers and want to dim each independently. Pay attention when ordering a potentiometer. They all have a tolerance range which means that the resistance isnt always 100ohm. The cheaper ones seem to carry around 20%, so it could be 20k over or under in resistance. I payed a little more and ordered two that have a 5% tolerance.
     
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