QB vs other

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Slappyjack1414, Mar 28, 2018.

  1. Just thought I'd share this for other rookie growers. I'm actually whatever is before rookie. Left is a "600w" Meizhi. Right is a 600w 8 panel qb132 with Meanwell LRS 350-36's that Tbone has placed dozens of links to. I initially bought 2 of the meizhi's for 554w at the wall (cause you know...I was educated), and then I kept reading. Ordered the Tbone recommended parts, built a frame, powered it up, BAM, I didn't die. Did I think I was going to? Hell yeah! "What the f*** is a molex connector? What do I do? Just shove a wire in there? I'm gonna miss my family. Why can't I see all of a sudden? Jesus?" No, it's just a bright f'n light. $70 more for the right than 2 of the left. I can walk you through building the frame. Don't drop $670 on a lesson. BTDT. Anyways, I'm only posting this cause I wish I would have read one like this when I started making purchases. 20180327_145820.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 8
    • Winner Winner x 1
  2. Hottest board after running for 3 hours. Sorry that the pic is sideways. 1522192130028.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 5
  3. I made heatsinks for my 132QBs. I used 1/16 thick steel plate I found at the scrap yard and measured out a grid and hand drilled a shit load of holes and smooth the plates with a grinder. I have no access to any stores or shops.

    You could likely get a 1/16 thick piece of aluminum and have a fabrication shop drill and cut it into pieces. If your a nut nut like me anyhow...
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Mine were Viparspectra 450's - wished I'd have read about the QBs beforehand.
     
  5. I'm okay with the temps. I'll fab a heat sink if necessary out of angle aluminum and mount a piece to the board above each line of LEDs. I'll decide that once I see how my tent temps respond. If that's necessary though, I'll probably build a housing for the hole thing with some PC fans.
     
  6. A few friends of mine want lights like mine now too. I'll be building them, but I'll use aluminium box tubing in addition to the angle iron to clean the whole thing up. I'll run the wires internally with grommets.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  7. It quite fun building fixtures for these boards. I sheathed my wires with some of that corrugated automotive electrical sheathing. Comes in all kinds of colors.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  8. #8 Steakbomb, Mar 29, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2018
    Can you link that sheathing? I want to move my power supply off the top of my heatsink and out of my tent to help temps... I'd like to be able to wrap the solid core wires feeding the board so its a little more manageable to run out...

    EDIT - found it on amazon - same stuff I had been looking at. What size did you use? Got any pictures?
     
  9. Amazon.com: wire loom sheathing

    Amazon.com: colored wire loom

    Here are some products, there is also braided sheathing which is nice, as opposed to a plastic sheath. And remember "split" means there is a split to insert wires into, as opposed to having to fish wires. So no removal of wires needed to sheath with those products.

    You should he able to find it at automotive stores are marine supply stores. Its used to protect wires, hoses, and cables from chafing and such.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  10. The internet is pretty awful so no pictures this week. Well, I used 1/2 inch for the electrical from the driver to the boards because its what I had around, and It was easier to fit the little extra slack into; and 3/8 for the other wires. I would think 3/8 would be a good for for driver to board wiring, and 1/8 for individual wires.

    If for whatever reason you fill the sheath it will stretch a little. Zipties or a few wraps of electrical tape keep it from moving around too much. I usually tape the ends a little too.
    It all makes for a nice clean look.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. I was thinking 1/2 or 1/4 inch to bundle the two wires fom the driver to the board, and closing the two ends of the sheathing with an inch or two of shrink tube. Love a clean look haha!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. In the interest of transparency... yestersay, one of the power supplies (the one that powers the corners) has something going on causing it to blink after a few minutes. Not really sure what it is. The fan on the other power supply (the cross) doesn't come on right away. Maybe there's a thermal trigger though, because it comes on after a few minutes. Either way, I've rigged it up as it will run during flower minus the tent, and am testing it out. It's been on for several hours with no issue. The "cross" pic is veg. 20180329_103823.jpg 20180329_103852.jpg 20180329_103817.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 2
  13. The power supplies for anyone interested. The white cords were harvested from $3.95 surge protectors from Lowe's. 20180328_173013.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 3
  14. And...The corners are flashing again.
     
  15. In spite of the minor debugging for the flickering, that thing really kicks ass. Can you dim the panels at all if desired?
     
  16. I didn't put a dimmer in, but the PSs come with a built in. It's not full dimming like you'd think though. I think I can dial down the voltage with it. Haven't really messed with it yet.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  17. I've just been letting it run trying different cooling methods in the hopes I can get it to go 12 hours without the flicker. The monsters seem to like it. 20180329_141237.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 2
  18. I'm wondering if it's a heat issue since the hottest boards are under the power supplies. Running another test. I'm cracking beans in 4 days, so I'd appreciate any input. I'll raise the PS's an inch and add a fan of this works. 1522453758396.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. See how this test goes. I changed the fan in my tent and now it's also breezing on my board's heatsink and it cooled things off about 8 degrees or so.
     
  20. Out of curiosity, what's your grow method?
     

Share This Page