it started off as curiosity to see if it'd actually grow and surprisingly its been doing well! We're not sure of the strain because a random seed feel out the grinder so we planted it. It'll be 4 months on July 13th, we started yesterday the 12:12 flowering rule. -watering when felt necessary with tap water and cut the added nutrients completely after noticing the plant may be suffering from nitrogen toxicity (self diagnosed based of google searches). Any insight on what to do to heal my plant and procedures to follow for the rest of the process would be greatly appreciated!
It doesn't really seem to be out of shape. It looks like a couple of the lower leaves are starting to sag - which happens as the lower leaves age. It looks like that - because all your other leaves look to be in good shape and some are reaching for the light - which is good. Sounds like you aren't over watering it. No harm done in backing off the nutes to test things out - but I think you can keep doing what you were. It seems to be going well enough.
What does that mean if it looks like your plant? Because there are a few leaves with those same brown "stains" on them.
What you have my friend is a phosphorus deficiency. If your pH is higher than 7 phos becomes unavailable. Phos also becomes unavailable when the plant is overwatered. The dark green leaves with dark purple petioles (stems joining leaf blades) is an indicator. The leaves looking like they have lizard scales is also indicative. I am going through it.
-- how is this cured and will it effect the final product much? * I've took all added nutrients out. So just flushing it with regular tap water to see if there's a difference.
Unfortunately I can't answer that question. Take a step back. Check your environment and inputs. My fix was as simple as a cooling register blowing to close.to my container. Cold roots don't take up phos either.
if your ph isnt right it wont matter. do u know the ph of ur tap water? to high or low u can lock out many of the nutes ur plant needs
lol, havnt figured out yet, still working on it. but i thibk i know. just waiting for results from treatment last night
Yessir first things first check pH. Phosphorus isn't as.easy to come by as people think. This is why I love organics. Are you feeding fulvic acid? People don't understand the complexities of a deficiency due to lock out. It could be too much or too little of another macro or micro nitrient. In large container grows we send our soil off to be sampled. We call this tail chasing adventure nutrient imbalance. All nutrients work together like a machine. One loose gear and the machine is broken.
-I have no idea. I went into this blind, just as an experiment but I'm in pretty deep and want to make it to harvesting now. I know miracle grow isn't a good soil to use but I've used it since I started growing it. One of my photos has the nutes I been adding (if that can give you any idea) I don't have a Ph reader to test the sink water.
This has gotten beyond me. A slow feed potting soil is your problem. I know people that have grown in it with sucess but there is a certain way to do it.
That's pottasium issues for sure .Notice it's brown tips moving inwards. Your probably in bad shape as miracle grow has set nutrients in it AND your feeding it with other stuff (too often) Flush the plant really good with quarter strength nutrients...and drain that to waste don't reuse it. I would also simultaneously transplant (it's late I know) but you've got a HOT soil mix locking up nutrients and burning the plant. so transplant to a bigger container with the proper soil and use that opportunity to flush like crazy. NOT with plain water...1/4 strength as this evens out the cation ratio which is way off b6 now. good luck GFP Sent from my SM-G600FY using Tapatalk
Yah i think a heavy flush would be ideal. Then you at least know where you stand. That's why it gets complicated. Phos drives the assimilation of nutrients but potassium assists in the uptake of phos. As @GhostfacePurps mentioned cation ratios are key to nutrient uptake regulation.
Just to add a scope for spider mites isn't a bad idea. Once a plants natural defenses drop the mites can smell it and even pick up heat signatures similar to a snake. A perfectly healthy plant with a high brix isn't even seen as food to a mite. If you see brown and tan dots under your leaves it's spider mites. You can go at this many ways. Contact killers like potassium sulfate or pyrethrin, hormone interrupts like neem oil and karanja oil, or predatory nematodes and mites. I opt for spider mite hunters mites and h.miles (fungus gnat hunters). The h. Miles keep the soil clean and the spider mite hunters keep my vegetation clean. The nematodes will just crawl up into any gnat larvae that gets a chance to hatch and consume it from the inside out. I've seen them when they've just busted a larvae open. They stick to my moisture probe. Pretty nasty looking. I only opt the predators because all the IPM in Then world can't cover every crack and crevice. Bad analogy but I look at the foliar as the planes bombing in war time. Send in the mites like boots on the ground to seek out survivors. If I can get my predatory populations ahead then as soon as pestilence arises it is beaten down before it has a chance.
Thank you very much (what soil would you recommend? I live near a Home Depot and lowes ) Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Depends on what's there. I'd find a hydro store near you and go there! GFP Sent from my SM-G600FY using Tapatalk
____________________________ If you have the time to let the soil cook make your own. 1 part spagnum 1 part ewc or compost 1 part perlite Per cubic foot [7.5g] 1/2 cup crab meal 1 cup kelp meal 1/2 cup neem meal 6 cups biochar 3 cups basalt or glacial rock dust (granite dust works fine $20 a cubic yard lol) 1/2 cup gypsum (calcium and sulfur) Let it cook for 2 weeks and you have fox farms. _____________________ Since your in a pinch I'd go with HP promix but I know people like adding EWC and some aeration. I wouldnt go with roots organic since your plants are already hot unless you want.to knock it down with and equal mix of 1 part ewc/1 part peat moss/1 part perlite (not the stuff with fertilizer in it)