Problems..over water? Nute burn? No till

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by xXMelkorXx, May 17, 2016.

  1. So I'm not sure why I'm having symptoms of both over watering and nute burn yellow tips on new growth..
    I haven't watered in 7 days now except for a small amount of water used in a foilar spray..on top of that in both plants I have yellowing tips..but only one with over water symptoms..

    Anywone dealt with this before?
     
  2. Forgot pics
     

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  3. you get a scope out and check for broad/russet mites. What are you using for amendments, how long did it compost for? Fist time in organics/no till. Give some background so we can give ya a better answer
     
  4. Hey just wondering what made you think mites?



    Looks love nute burn but if that's compost I don't know not my area. But like chew said need more information.
     
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  5. Its the build a soil modern mix 2.0 with oly mtn compost and some of my own leaf mold I recently top dressed last week..
     
  6. There is neem supposedly in the soil.. Honestly I feel like I don't have great aeration..I just don't see how I could go a week and still be moist i . 7 gal air pot..
     
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  7. Also I do have a small fungus gnat infestation.. That's a sign I have too much water in my soil..


    Uggggggh I want them to recover and start growing again.. The past two weeks have been great in terms of growth..one more week and I was fun a switch to 12 12..but now I need recoerty time
     
  8. are you sure this is overwatering? i dont really see it. plants actually look ok but it could be the photo. :confused_2:
    this is an overwatered plant
    [​IMG]

    to check if the soil isnt too dense take some in your fist. when squeezed it should clump up to a ball but it should easily crumble apart when poked with a finger, if it sticks together like clay then you know its not enough aeration and i would transplant.

    hopefully some of the more knowledgeable blades will swing by and have better advice for ya.
    good luck!
     
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  9. #9 wetdog, May 18, 2016
    Last edited: May 18, 2016
    *I* would give a 95%+ chance that your feelings about the aeration are correct.

    Wet

    BTW, my aeration tends to be 40%+ and from more than one source. IMO, every recipe I've seen ends up too dense if followed exactly. That 1/3 aeration just don't get it.
     
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  10. looks like a nute burn, or possible lockout, that being said Ive seen this same thing happen from a massive fungus gnat infestation where their larvae had started feeding on roots and causing what looked like nute issues. As said before it looks like u may have an aeration issue as well, I have a fix for both but since your organic you wont like it. Any time I feel plants are suffocating, and also if i feel a bug problem or mildew/mold problem coming, I treat 3 times over a 10 day period with 30% H202 (peroxide from hydro store) cut 1/2 oz to a gallon of water and it will liven up choked out plants and push some oxygen into mix, while also killing the fuck out of any crawlies or mold....However in your living soil it would be a bad plan as it would most definately kill all beneficials as well. Just a little info, sorry if it didnt fix anything
     
  11. also great for cleaning up root rot.
     
  12. "That 1/3 aeration just don't get it."

    It totally and completely depends on the compost/vermicompost used. With the large amounts of leaf mold in my mix I don't add any additional aeration.

    J
     
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  13. Totally agree, but leaf mold is almost an entity unto itself, just from the time involved.

    Your results finally convinced me several years back and with getting everything in order I'm in my second year of at least 3 years. NBD, my compost pile is my raised beds, so, mulch AND compost, win-win. But still, anyone using leaf mold would be way beyond following recipes.:ey:

    That 1/3 comment was in reference to the most common aeration sources, especially the "alternatives" to perlite. You and I know how a well aerated/draining mix should feel and perform, no matter the aeration source. Many don't and think a too dense mix is "well aerated", just from not knowing any better.

    Wet
     
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  14. OK thanks for the replys..

    On payday I will get some diatemacous earth to kill the larvae so they won't munch on my roots..as for aeration..what's the best way to add it without hurting my girls to much?
     
  15. Also while I was doing that soil check..I delved deep..and my soil is no longer moist but quite dry..

    Also to clarify..I only top dressed with my leaf mold..its not mixed in ..so its my bas base soil..then about 2 inches of leaf mold with some cytomax mixed in..I put that in earlier this week..then put my mulch back down..at first I thought it was the leaf mold..but my veggies outside growing in it is doing amazing!! So yeah I'm just at a loss..
     
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  16. I really wouldn't worry about it an awful lot - they don't look that bad to me but that's just me. I will say that I am totally and completely not too picky at all and it always ends up perfectly fine.

    It is damn near impossible to fuck up a plant in organic soil.

    I do agree with wetdog however about the density/porosity/drainage/aeration whatever - it really is very important. Very important. Soil that does not drain well can exhibit symptoms very similar to nutrient burn, yellowing leaves, etc.

    I think whatever you have going on is very, very minor though.

    Let me ask what you meant by this, though - "leaf mold with Cytomax mixed in"

    What is "Cytomax"? Do you mean the BioAg Humic acid product? Did you hopefully mix this with water? I'm hoping you didn't mix the granules in with the leaf mold?

    Also, is your leaf mold completely broken down? Very well broken down? Leaf mold *can* be quite acidic if it's not crumbly and black.

    Do you have a transplant coming up before flower, or no? If so, add some aeration to the mix before transplant but if not then I say don't worry an awful lot about it Melkor. Seriously.

    Let's put it this way - I wouldn't, FWIW.

    Good luck man.

    J
     
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  17. The reason I mention the microscopic mites is because I and some that I know have misdiagnosed nutrient deficiency, in soil, hydro, etc when it was actually broad mites. I'm not saying it is mites, but one of their symptoms is spindly/poor new growth, and loss of pigment, usually turning brown/grey on top. Also the easiest of identifications out there, just look with a 100x scope.
     
  18. Thanks jerry..and to answer your question about leaf mold..it was added before I noticed this issue..I added it thinking maybe that my plant was sucking up all the available nutrients so I top dressed hoping it would perk em up..and I usually do put it in water but this time I sprinkled less than a quarter of a teaspoon total in both plants..it says on back to add a quarter teaspoon per gallon dry..so I figured it was OK..but I did add some water after to soak it up.. Not much a few sprays from my bottle sprayer..

    And the leaf mold is very black and crumbly..but I see what you mean about acidity.. Its dark out but tommorow I'll take a pic of it up close..

    My wife agrees with you about it being a minor issue..but I guess I worry a lot BC I don't wanna ruin yields and not getting my moneys worth..my first couple grows were sub par in yield ..so I'm wanting at least 2 zones a plant..plus trim for Dry sifting

    They are hso blue dream which I have seen on many journals t9 be a hardy strain that can take aloy of punishment..Saturday I can get some diatemaocous earth and kill the gnat larvae..
     
  19. Here is them today..
     

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  20. I have zero experience with Diatomaceous Earth so hopefully someone will chime in, but I thought that once the powder got wet it didn't work anymore?

    How many gnats are we talking here?

    J
     
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