Preparing the harvest, drying/curing the crop, & adding flavors.

Discussion in 'Harvesting and Processing Marijuana' started by jcj77d, Jul 8, 2008.

  1. Sounds like they didn't dry completely. There is moisture left deep in the bud and stems eventhough the outside of the bud is dry. I check the small stems if they crack instead of bending I consider them dry enough for the jar. Once in the jar I burp (open the jar) them 2-3 times a day for 10-20 minutes for 3 days. Then I burp them once a day for a week, then once a week for 2 weeks. (others have slight variations)
    I would take your bud out of the freezer and place on a screen and dry with good air circulation, osilating fan. It will probably dry up in a day or 2 at the most. Then put it back in the jar and start the curing and burping. It should come out good. Be careful transfering it out of the jars when frozen, let them come up to room temperature so the resin doesn't break off.
     
  2. I posted this as a thread but it didn't get many hits for some reason so I figured I'd post it in this thread.

    It has to be one of the most informative write ups on why you should cure

    I saw this post over at icmag and didn't know if it has already been posted so apologies if it has.

    This really answered a ton of questions for me

    Contributors : Fergetit & Skunk Works

    Does curing affect potency?

    The very short answer is YES. It does affect potency in a very positive manner. Curing cannabis after harvesting for few days to several months will improve the potency, as well as the taste and texture of the buds.

    Curing takes place after cannabis has been harvested, manicured and partially dried. Most cannabis will retain a significant quantity of moisture within its stems and inner buds even when the outside feels dry. This is especially true for very dense buds, more care must be taken in drying loose airy buds because sometimes they can dry too fast.

    Should a sample of bud become over-dried before proper curing is complete, many different techniques may be used to slightly re-hydrate the bud and continue curing as normal. Fresh buds, orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.

    Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.

    The preferred container for curing and storage of cannabis buds is an all glass jar, with a large opening for easy access. Wide-mouth canning jars with glass bodies and tops with a rubber seal are an ideal choice. Less preferred are small-mouth canning jars with metal or plastic lids. Generally try to avoid all plastics in direct or close contact with your cannabis. Generally these materials are slightly porous and the phenolic acids and terpenoids can react with plastics, but not with glass.

    Initially drying can be preformed free hanging or enclosed in cardboard boxes or paper bags, both of which will act as a desiccant.

    There are several process and effects which take place during curing that can rationally and scientifically explain the increase in potency and improvement of the smoke in cured material:

    Moisture Content

    Moisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular mixing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria can quickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. On the other hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do not take place.

    Fresh cannabis plants are around 80% water (all %’s by weight); curing generally begins after the cannabis has lost half of it’s initial mass, and contains approximately 33% of it’s initial water.

    Once curing is complete and the pot is “dry”, it should still contain 10-15% moisture, approximately 2-4% of its’ initial water. This is an ideal because most bacteria and molds can not grow below 15% water content, and below 10% cannabis buds tend to powder.

    Cannabinoid Conversion

    Naturally, as the metabolic processes continue during curing, the conversion of cannabergerol to tetrahydrocannabinol will continue and the potency of the pot will increase. This is because cannabergerol (CBG) is the non-psychoactive precursor for tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Of course, the exact change in THC content will necessarily be dependant upon the concentration of CBG in the fresh material at harvest. Of course any remaining precursors necessary to form additional cannabidiol (CBD) and other cannabinoids will also be consumed and converted.

    Be aware though if curing is excessively prolonged (most connoisseurs would agree after 6 months no more benefit could be had from curing), the conversion of THC to non-psychoactive cannabinol (CBN) will occur. The exact rate of decomposition can vary widely depending on handling and storage conditions, but can be less than 10% to greater than 40% decomposition per year.

    Storage tips:

    Potency during curing and storage can be maintained by observing some basic precautions:

    The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will quickly decompose the THC.

    Moderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 50-75F being ideal.

    Excessively hot temperatures will promote oxidation and the growth of mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and drying for up to several months.

    During storage, buds should be stored as cold as possible, if temperatures of 0C or less are to be used, make sure the bud is dried to a very low moisture content before storage (to insure that cell walls are not burst by the freezing water).
    Also, if prolonged storage is planned evacuating the oxygen and replacing it with carbon dioxide, nitrogen, argon, nitrous oxide, or any other inert gas will help slow oxidation, as well as the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbic acid packets or vitamin C tablets.

    The most stable way to store cannabis is as whole unbroken buds or unpressed trichomes. Excessive rough handling or pressing can easily damage the protective cell walls and plant waxes that help protect cannabinoids from oxidation.

    Continued Metabolism

    Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.

    Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.

    Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.

    Decarboxylation

    Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2.

    Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion).

    Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids.

    Taste & Odor

    Terpenoids are the highly volatile compounds that give marijuana much of its’ characteristic odors, and therefore tastes.

    The most current research also suggests terpenoids lend to the high, sometimes very significantly. Cannabinoids are phenolated terepenes so it’s not surprising that many hundreds of different terpenoids are synthesized as well.

    As pot ages, some of the terpenoids go through polycyclic aromatization in the process of decomposition. This agglomeration of terpenoids will change the flavor; hence the ability of cured pot to show flavors that didn’t seem present in the original fresh material. Much of the very volatile terpenoids will also evaporate and or decompose, especially with prolonged curing or storage. This action will remove some matter from the pot increasing the cannabinoid concentration and therefore potency.

    It must be noted that excessively long curing or storage, higher temperatures, or extremely low moisture content will cause such through evaporation of the terpenoids that the cannabis will generally loose almost all of it’s natural flavors.
     
  3. great thread + rep for great work
    i have asked so many times and no one ever answered me
    has anyone ever heard of this strain called pink lady
    sticky this shit:hello::smoke:
     
  4. hey i just have a couple of questions and you seem to be very informative...i was planning on starting the light change and flowering at about 8 weeks of vegetation.. i have a bubbleponics kit and have about 5 good prospects...i dont have a co2 tank but i heard it is extremely important in the budding phase, should i just expect less yield and potency or is there ways to get around this, and also which are the best nutes to feed with(name of company) im using the nutes bubbleponics sent seems to be doing good,,,any help would be rightious.. nebster
     
  5. What about injecting the stalk with a hypodermic needle to add flavoring??? just a thought?
     
  6. I have an old friend who used to put a thick cotton thread through the stem near the bottom then use it as a wick to infuse flavoring.

    Personally I don't like adding flavoring but to each his own.
     
  7. can you use a dehumidifier and throw your newly harvested bud into a garbag bag and put the dehumidfier on the side of the open back and leave it for a night or 2?
     
  8. Wow who would ever think of extract??? Good info
     
  9. yes extracts work the best, & yes i have heard & read about ppl useing needles to inject their plants, but needs to be done when they are real thirsty
     
  10. i cant go back & edit the og post, but yes, after futher research, etc, DONT freeze your buds your gonna smoke, use the fridge.
    my buds i cure do the same when i put them in the fridge, when they rehydrate just dump them out on a flat surface for the day 12-24hrs, to let them dry out more.
     
  11. how would i go about a cinnamon flavoring? any ideas?
     
  12. helo some great advice . still nead a little help 3 of ml ladys are in the flouring stage how long do i leave then b4 harvest pitstels are turning orange if that helps
     
  13. anyone here have any experience getting sick after smoking moldy bud? anyone you know get sick?

    it seems like everyone on here insists that you must throw out your whole harvest if theres a couple tainted buds, but i haven't seen a single conclusive study that says that white mold on buds can fuck up your lungs anymore than tar filled smoke.

    ive heard the black aspergillus mold can really do a number on your respiratory system, but is some sparse white fuzz really gonna fuck you up that bad?

    more importantly, CAN YOU BURN IT OFF WITH A LIGHTER TO LESSEN THE PROBLEM?
     
  14. So if i got my girl to rub her vag jj all over the plant 10 times a day it would smell n taste like vag jj.... Nah your right prolly just fish
     
  15. what ratio of extract, teaspoon per liter type increments
     
  16. First off I just want to say thanks for the great posts:hello:.

    The only question I have on this though would be how much concentrate would you use to lets say a 5 galon hydro?
     
  17. Could I inject the plant with vanilla extract for flavor?
     
  18. i got a cuple questions, im a first time grower and am working with one plant, if i have mold on the soil is that going to affect the buds? the plant is budding right now and im thinking harvest is getting close, whats the best way to extract the bud for drying? just dry it as a whole plantt?
     

  19. dude said thatd diffrent preople like diffrent taste thats its up to you to figure out how much u like.just play around with it and see what you like :smoking:
     
  20. how would the weed burn though? woudnt you be burning the extract thats in the weed? anybody try it,and what did the weed taste like?
     

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