Pine Bark IN the mix?

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by wetdog, Sep 22, 2017.

  1. Pine Bark fines/mulch has always been a part of my mix since I was taught how to make it over 40 years ago. It makes up the greater half of my humus component and VC, the smaller half.

    I know there are more than a few that use Pine Bark Mulch as a mulch, but wondered who else actually incorporated into their mix, besides myself.

    Wet
     
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  2. Me. And quite frankly i am surprised at how rapidly they will decompose. I add them at every recycle just prior to using the medium. Wunnnerful stuff IME.
     
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  3. I'll bet we could put our mixes SxS and not be able to tell them apart, for realze.

    Mine don't seem to break down quite that fast, but more get added at every recycle, or that perlite/pine bark blend, that was a happy accident. Great for a recycle that's trending towards too dense. But the bark, for sure.
     
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  4. @wetdog Have you noticed that the finer particles mix better than the bigger size particles? Definitely adding this into my mix...do you add it at the same time you add other amendments or right before you plant as @Possuum suggested?
     
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  5. Also, as a random side question, could you potentially use neem leaf or neem bark as part of the mulch layer? Or would that just be too much neem with the neem meal that I normally add in my soil?
     
  6. Possuum was talking about reamends there, but I'm 99% sure he also adds them when constructing a new mix.

    AFA the finer particles, the graded Pine Bark Fines I was able to source years ago were about the size of a pinky fingernail. The mulch I get now gets run through a 1/2" screen and what doesnt pass gets used as mulch.

    I mix 2cf at a pop (wheelbarrow full). I put the expanded peat moss in first, the pine bark, then the lime and mix that well so everything gets a good dusting of lime. THEN, everything else gets added and mixed, with perlite and water being last.

    Have no clue about the neem leaves or bark. Not even sure if you could obtain it. Even if you could it would be super expensive for a mulch and too much neem added to the neem meal. Bad idea all around.
     
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  7. I too would go easy on the neem. For all of its known positive influences neem stands out as a great thing for a soil mix but one thing to keep in mind with its use for a container plant is its pesticidal qualities. Deadly to most fungal species and to many bacteria species but also beneficial to some bacteria. It's a great soil conditioner and a GREAT pesticide for fungus gnats but neem is best used in smaller amounts for container gardening. Stunting of plant growth for young plants and potentially deadly to seedlings is my experience with it. Yes i still use it but no more than 2-3 tbsp in a 7.5.

    Pine bark i get is composted for the most part. I try to amend my recycle soil for use 2-3 weeks out. Let it start cycling a bit. There's no change in my process for adding pine bark be it first starting out or recycling. I add what i feel comfortable with and its on to the next thing. I'm examining soil tilth all the time and especially on recycle so i add what i think is right. "Kentucky windage" some might say. Others might suggest it's a WAG. Same same.

    HTH's
     
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  8. Sadly, I have the VOE (Voice of experience), with the effects on young plants and seedlings by wiping out my entire garlic crop for this year, along with 2 years worth of bulbils.

    Not from over application, but more from a constant application. I had shifted away from the pesticidal use to more of a NPK use. Not only in the mix, but also top dressings and such when something else would have worked just as well, like soy meal for example. I was pretty much using neem exclusively.

    Like Possuum, I'll still use it, but in smaller amounts and not for everything.
     
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  9. I used it as part of the peat portion of a mix.
    10% pine bark
    40% peat
    25%compost/VC
    20% lava rock
    5% pea gravel
    With neem, kelp, crab, oyster, glacial rock dust, and some Camelina meal. Eventually I added some biochar under the mulch layer. Bed is almost 4 now and pretty much takes care of itself.

    I used to run a mix that was:
    40% Roots Organic potting soil
    20% pine bark mulch
    20% compost
    20% perlite
    With a bunch of amendments that were premixed. Happy Frog or something like that and 2tbs. Dolomite lime per gallon.

    I was a real genius back then and would add the 2tbs of dolomite back after every run. Eventually turning my soil to cement. I was a one and done grower for awhile, until I learned how to re-amend my soil from Coot.
    Like you guys, I try to not overuse neem either. It comes from so far away is my thinking. Alfalfa and Camelina are grown locally and both work well. Camelina has some pest suppression properties as well.
    RD
     
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  10. Whoops
     
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  11. Would newly planted seeds be able to push threw pine bark mulch? Or should you wait until they emerge then add layers?
     
  12. @wetdog Ahh I see I see, I am definitely planning on adding it into my next mix which will be the mix that starts my first notill! And then I will reapply with my topdressing containing ewc, kelp, oyster shell flour, neem, malted barley powder, and rock dust. Can you think of anything else that would be beneficial to add into my topdress? I add ewc and malted barley powder regularly during growth and usually do a kelp topress at the beginning of flower but am always open to other peoples suggestions.

    Yeah the neem bark I had just recently seen on neemresource.com (where I source my cold pressed neem) and figured it was worth a mention. Ill stick to the KISS principle and stick with the pine bark mulch as to not overcomplicate things and potentially risk hurting my plants with too much neem.
     
  13. In the 4 years I've had my no till running I have never, ever topdressed oyster shell. I do have fairly hard water though.
    RD
     
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  14. I've often wondered about this, knowing that you have high pH water...

    Do you use any form of "liming agent" in your soil, even at initial mix?
     
  15. @Possuum Ahh I see, is there a specific brand you go with to get the pine bark mostly composted? Also, if I am doing notill, would the best way to precook be to put all of the ewc and amendments into a bin by themselves 2-3 weeks prior to the topdress in order to allow them to break down a bit beforehand? And if so, is there any special way to do it? For example, would you just water them the way you would a new soil mix or would you add in anything else?

    @wetdog Yeah, I plan on basically mixing the neem meal into my initial mix and then maybe once during flower and once when I plant the new plant and re-amend. Does this sound like it would be do-able and not too much?

    @ElRanchoDeluxe I, like you, used to use a much more complicated soil mix consisting of lime, fertilizer, etc and have been working with the mix from the no-till revisited thread now for about 6 months and love it! So much easier and each part truly makes sense. I feel as though I had been thinking of organics in the classic NPK way too much up until I found this new recipe.

    Ahh Camelina! First time I've heard of that one...what is that supposed to do in the soil? Is it more of a nutritional amendment or something different?

    Also, I may have meant to say crab shell meal if that sounds more like it would make sense? This will be my first no-till, however, I've done countless soil mixes so I suppose I am just wondering what would be most beneficial in a topdress application, thanks again guys!
     
  16. I use a 1/2 cup oyster and 1/2 cup crab per c.f. during the initial mix. Calcium deposits are visible on the landscape fabric. Doesn't seem to be a problem, but I certainly don't feel the need to add more.

    OP, my water is around 7.8-8.1 with 262ppm. Ca is around 160ppm of that 262.
     
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  17. Crab shell makes a lil more sense. I have topdressed with it, but only during an epic fungus gnat battle. It really depends on your water source. If your using RO an occasional crab topdress may be a good thing.
    Camelina is a seed meal from the Brassica family with an NPK of 6-1-1. It has some pest suppression qualities. It was supposed to be the shining star of the biodiesel industry, but is grown mostly for human and animal consumption. Chickens love it.
    Alfalfa and kelp are my go-to amendments for teas and topdressing. All the biodynamic accumulators work well being added to the mulch layer.
    RD
     
  18. @ElRanchoDeluxe That makes sense...I guess I'll probably just stick to the other amendments I mentioned in that case. As I previously stated, this will be my first no till so I'm just gauging what would be most beneficial, thank you so much again! Camelina sounds like a great additional amendment which is why its strange that I feel I've never heard of it...could be stoner brain too :p.

    I used to add Alfalfa in my actual mix but have since stopped using it except for in teas. How much kelp/alfalfa do you topdress with? I at the moment use 3 gallon pots but will be moving to 10 gallons for the no till.
     
  19. idk my ph but i know for a fact we have very hard water here, whole country does. whats interesting is that AFAIK no form of lime is used here, at least none is sold anywhere, not for agricultural use anyway. its interesting because the base material used by pretty much all nurseries here is sphagnum peat (ours comes from Finland tho but im pretty sure its the same stuff). so perhaps the hard water provide all the liming needed.
     
  20. I added about 1 inch thick layer of pinebark mulch to my beds because i decided to try something new as the straws make a mess and heavy winds recently send them everywhere. I am a bit worried though that my seeds wont be able to push through i just planted them before the mulch any ideas?

    I planted mostly veggies and few cannabis seeds and some herbs on the corners mainly for pests and oil production/aromas ect..
     

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