bump... i know some guy who has just recently purchased a Darkroom Twin and was wondering what kinda gear you guys would put in one. they are new this year so my searches for the topic are fruitless.
I'm also looking at them. My big concern is over the ventilation - I'm not sure if it's big enough to let me run a modded stanley blower as opposed to expensive canfan type things.
the guy i know runs 6 inch ducting/fans. the cooltube is diy. 6" CLEAR ducting from HTG. 6" growbright centrifugal fan $100 also from HTG. if you have a way to vent the heat out of ur grow space, 1 6" fan can cool both the tent (400w hps cooltube) and propogator (125w CFL) through the cooltube AND carbon filter. its works like a charm with temps steady at 75 on with the fan controller on medium. id post pics but im scared xD Edit: as far as the stanly blower, you may can squeeze it in the larger tent but if you could have the blower outside the tent and just run your ducting inside the tent you would be golden the guy i know runs his cooling as follows: (propogator tent) => ducting => enter larger tent => ducting TO cooltube => ducting from cooltube => fan => exaust out the tent. so it looks roughly like this this setup requires supplemental CO2 (exhale CO2 bags) but if you wanted to avoid using co2 you could use a cheap booster fan to exhaust ur larger tent. just be sure to switch it so that it comes through the cool tube.
Nice sketch! So how's the DR90T holding up? Your buddy happy with it? I'm looking at the system too, only with 2 ft. t5s in the small tent. Maybe only the small tent to start due to lack of room. Does the big CFL bulb take up too much vertical space? How is light dispersal? Do the corners get lit up too? My big picture is pretty similar to your sketch, only I'm thinking using one side of the small tent for a few mothers under 1 - 2'x2tube t5. The other side for 1 - 2'x1tube t5 for newly rooted clones (lower hung fixture for the tiny clones) and a propagating tray/dome in the middle (without lights, just bleed-over from the left and right areas). Then below a 250watt hps over a SOG. Granted, it's all day dreaming right now. My last two indoor grows have been in a DIY PC grow box. I'm outside now, but have big dreams for this fall/winter when I move back indoors. Thanks in advance for your update.
I have a DRT90. The top, I have a Hydrofarm 2' x 8 bulb T5 fluorescent light. (2' x 2') In hind sight, I'd opt for two 2' x4 bulb (2' x 1'), so I can set the height of the two lights independently. One for mothers, one for clones. I'm using a 4" inline fan for ventilation, and controlled by a ductstat ds100 (like a thermostat) to control the heat. This fan is a bit overkill. An inline duct booster would be sufficient for the top chamber. I'm using a vertical standing oscilating fan for air circulation. I'll be using a bubble cloner that I built, and airpots for the mother plants. The bottom is run completely separate. I have two Blackstar 240w LED lights for flowering, a 6" inline fan with carbon filter connected to another DuctStat ds100 to regulate the temperature. I'll be adding a 6" inline booster fan, which will be on 24/7, for ventilation. I have a 31" Holmes vertical oscilating fan for circulation (the type with a manual switch, so I can control it with a timer, if needed.) And I built a DIY Undercurrent DWC hydro system with 4 x 3.5 gallon plant sites. I felt it was best to configure the two chambers to run independently of each other, rather than pumping warm air from one, and into the other.. I specifically chose low heat light options , too. Hope this helps. Cheers, Past
here is a list of items you will need im not going to give you a list of cheap crap that will break etc the items are all reasonably priced good quality items which i would use if i had a DR90. 1x supernova grow light with 400watt sunmaster blue/red spectrum lamp. 2x light hangers 1x Ikon 4"100mm fan and Rhino filter and standard ducting 1x Maxis 2 way light controller 10A 1x Thermometer
Just researched the Supernova Enhanced spectrum model and I am far from being convinced. First, I don't see any successfully completed journals. Second, they only talk about different spectrum in range only and there are no specifics (ex: 3w vs 3w3, 660nm diodes, cree/osram/bridgelux, lens angle, parts used, total power draw, etc). I am not saying the light is garbage but if they are willing to charge as much I would think the information provided should be more comprehensive.
Walmart has some 6" desk fans that work out well for circulating air in the room without using to much space. If they consider themselves some what of a DIYer Could grab some PL-L bulbs and T5HO ballasts and outfit the area with them. They would be able to get a good light coverage without the heat of a HID. I am cooling a 24x24x36 with 220w of PL-L with only a 120mm PC fan (granted it is one of the best for static pressure). These cabs are located inside a hot area to boot. If they are less technically inclined they could go with a refit kits from AHsupply. If they placed 6 bulb set up in the tent they would have about 3200 lumen per square foot. A HID for the same power would give a lot more lumen but you would have a concentration of it in the center. The other advantage of the PL-L would be that you could also raise and lower each bulb independently to maximize light coverage. The downside to them is the penetration power of PL-L does not compare to HID but the trade off is simpler venting and lower powered fans, and you will have a more even light spread on the canopy. I have found i can run these lamps about 1" from the leaves without burning them although I try to keep them further since they can grow up into the lights overnight. Going with a 6 bulb from AH will set you back $200 but will come with the best Pl-L reflectors on the market and good sockets and better ballasts (GE Ultrastarts are better but cost more). When I went with PL-L lights I wish in for though I bought there retrofit kits. They do not come with bulbs but you can get Sylvania bulbs for a decent price online, I would recommend them due to the fact they have a good base on them. I use some photography 5600k bulbs for my blues but the base sucks (broke one yesterday) but the light out of them are great. Looking at using some Ushio 4100k in the near future if they have a good base. PL-L imho are one of the best options for small areas, for the fact they beat out T5HO in lumen per linear inch which gives a good concentration of light but at the same time are easy to manage the heat off of. My fans speed is more dictated by removing moisture and bringing fresh air then moving heat. The PC fans I am talking about are Scythe Ultra Kaze, they are only $10 but move a lot of air and have one of the highest static pressure rating for that size fan. But they are sleeve bearing fans which means they should be mounting along the vertical axis for a longer life. The next option that everyone is raving about is Noctua P12 they do not move as much air but they are dead quiet and can handle some air flow restriction without an issue. They are also using SSO bearing which use pressurized oil as opposed to ball bearings or sleeve bearing which is the reason for their good life span and low noise. They have a 6 year warranty too. Another great fan is the Soler Palau TD150, slightly lower CFM then a Vortex or Fantech when there is little restriction, but if you have a lot of ducting and bends these will beat out the "standard" fans. They can also be found online for a decent price at times.
Ok well if you dont like that light you can use a medium parabolic reflector the medium is 80cm and im sure your aware the DR90 is 90cm so its a perfect fit. It can also fit a e40 CFL lamp so if your getting close to hitting the bulb or heat is becoming a problem you can just take the bulb out and stick a 250w CFL in the reflector. I done a grow in a DR120 with a 600w bulb until week 7 of flowering when the plants were huge and fat but were close to being scorched so replaced with 2 250watt maxibright 2700k red Cfl lamps and the cfls did almost as good as the 600w bulb.