Sure no problem Thepot. Bananas and coffe grounds are worms' favorite foods, and they won't burn your plants. Yes, the manures and meals should be covered by mulch to protect the worms and micor organisms living in there. After 1-2 months, remove some of the mulch, add your soil, OP's fish and add more mulch. As Cantharis indicated, don't add fresh composted things (attracts bad pests, burns etc...).
[quote name='Corto Malteze']Outdoor Organic Grow Guide ( OldPork's mj tips and tricks + other great GC gardeners' tips + my outdoor logistics experience). 1) Start them in solo cups (Oldskool) at home inside or outside. Place them directly in the soil mix (no cotton or tissue stage: adds a useless step where sprouts can be damaged). Use 1/2 organic potting soil (no manures or organic ferted soils like FFOF: too hot) + 1/2 peat moss + 15% wormcastings. Don't start with a store-bought rich mix. 2) After 1 month or so, take them out from the cups (cut the cups), and put them in 3-4 gallon pots in order to kill the males if non femmed before you put only females in the holes (no males in the hole is smart thanks OldPork). 3) Cut out the 3 gallon pots when you have only females and transplant into the hole (at night fall when the plant less active). I'm confused about these 3 steps. Will they outgrow the Solo cups before I can sex them? Why not just plant them in 3 gallon pots to begin with? Is it in order to prevent nute burn when they're seedlings or what?
I use small pots (or bigger solo cups) with a mixture of 50 potting soil (good one from the store, no ferts in it), 2O worm castings, and 30 builder's sand/native soil. (Don't use a lot of peat as wrongly indicated in guide '20% max as it can burn -I don't use any in the cups). The small cups are so you can manage them easier (close by and not visible for neighbours or what not) and control the water you give them easily. After 1 month place them in the 3 gallon pots and wait for them to sex. I don't feed them in the cups (or maybe once very light). It's true that's not very clear in the guide. Good luck. Another quick summary I wrote up: Outdoor organic mini guide (for stealth issues, spot choosing, watering, pests see GC stickies) I don't "germinate" (no paper towel step). I just place seeds 1/4 inch in soil. In (big) solo cups (or small pots), make about 4 drain holes. Cup Soil mix: 40-50 potting soil or old compost from nursery (no slow release ferts! No peat! These can kill them), 20 worm castings, 20 regular yard dirt, 20 thick sand or perlite (drainage). Water soil before placing seeds in so they don't move around. Let dry out a bit (2-3 days), (place in sun for 3-4 hours about, enough). Water again gently (mist), let dry some. Etc… They'll pop after 4-7 days about, when the dirt is drying out (often). Leave in cups for 1 month about. Cut out cup after 1 month. Place in 3-4 gallon pots. Place drain holes in pots too if there aren’t any (plug holes with cork screw plugs to regulate drainage –1/2 or ¾ of holes plugged). Soil mix of pots: 40 compost, 20 peat, 20 perlite (or thick sand) to drain, 20 worm castings (food), 1/8th cup lime (or eggshells, or ashes) to raise pH. You can add a bit of blood and bone meal in pots too for N and P. Mix all well. Leave in pots until they show sex (about 3 months). Males show in July, females in August. You can see sex earlier (June) with a x10 or x30 loupe during preflowering stage). Place in holes/bigger pots (cut out pots or flip over with stem in between hands) which wee amended with meals and manures at bottom + the less hot stuff. Dig a 2'x2'x2' hole (or 2x2x3’ wide). Add 1/2 shovel composted cow manure (mine has seaweed and chicken shit too), 1.5 cup bone meal, 1 cup blood meal at bottom. Mix at home. Let cook for 1-2 months with mulch on top. Then, take off mulch (or not), add your less hot soil mix (no need to cook the following ingredients): 50% compost/top soil –buy at local nursery if you don’t have a compost heap-. Compost takes close to 1 year to be done. Doesn’t burn when bought or ready. + 20-30% worm castings (store or home made better): very important. Doesn’t burn. + 20-30% of a soilless medium like peat + perlite (drains)(or thick builder’s sand)/vermiculite (holds water). If it's at home, you don't need as much vermiculite (you'll be able to water). Mix the peat you’ve moistened beforehand with perlite and/or vermiculite (peat will dry out and die if not helped with combo, or watered regularly), esp. if guerilla growing. Peat is acidic so mix it with regular dirt and compost. Don’t use more than 20 % peat (or any) for seedlings (just use nursery compost, sand, reg dirt for example for seedlings). + 20-30 % native dirt (from outside: see loamy soil and/or sand and/or acidic humus –black dirt from under decayed trees). Don’t mix clay and peat: the mix will fall at bottom hole and kill plants if you use 50 clay 50 peat (don’t do this!). You can use the top soil from the hole you dig if it’s good. + Powdered dolomite lime (1 ounce per gallon of dirt). Don't mix lime and manures/meals. Mix lime with the rest to counter the acidity of the peat and humus (if you used any). + Add rock dust too if possible (good trace elements). Plant your weed from the small pots/solo cups after 1month (about 1 foot tall). Add a fish with open guts 3 inches under the root ball. Cover with mulch.Water. Watering with organic teas: once tea, three times plain water (see organics section for tea recipes). Twice in season add 1tsp epsom salts per gallon. Finish with mainly unsulphured blackstrap molasses (1-2 TBS per gallon) in last month. That's it! OldPork's explanation on the banana (to get more females) and the copper wire (against slugs) tricks: http://forum.grasscity.com/general-outdoor-growing/362363-bws-all-natural-bagseed-grow-2.html Summary on finding your spots: http://forum.grasscity.com/general-outdoor-growing/372825-best-outdoor-grow-locations.html
Thank you very much. Your grow guide is very informative and it covers all of the bases. I'll be visiting again for reference throughout the season
Regarding sexing plants in 3 Gallon pots I do the same in 7 Gallon ones due to some strains getting root bound in 3 gallon pots risking turning hermaphroditic or showing other signs of stress.
OldPork DO NOT use clay for the other half of native soil because this peat-clay mix will fall at the bottom of the hole (too heavy with wet clay), and eventually kill your plants. not sure how to quote this but thats what it says in the grow guide can anyone elaborate on this... what if one was to use mostly peat, with maybe 30-40 percent of the native soil, which happens to have some clay in it, are you saying this will kill the plants? its not like 100 percent clay or anything. sorry but i'm a little confused at this, any response is appreciated.
It's OldPork who explained this (as most of the stuff in the guide lol). My region is clay as well but the native soil is more part clay part sand part loam so I'll be using 20% of it. I think he was referring to using maybe 50% native pure clay wirh a lot of peat. The mixture will sink to the bottom. You should be fine. I don't know either?!?
yeah thanks man. the more clay soil is when you start digging so maybe hes saying, for the half of native soil, use the first soil that comes out, and chuck the half from the bottom of the hole? i dunno, but when someone says "this will kill the plants", and it sounds like somethin i'm about to do, lol....well thanks for your input
Thanks for the guide, its really helpfull!! In the beggining you said to use a copper ring around the stem of the plant? Do you just mean something like an inch long surrounding the plant in the soil of the cup? Just need some confirmation... Also, is there a large chance of deer, and other wild animals eating or destroying the plants? Or are slugs the only real threat?
Yeah a little ring of a few inches around the stem. ALways leave it from babies to their whole life although the bigger risk is in 1st month or so. Some places where deer are over populated, will see deer go through anything to eat something that's as tasty as big buds on mj (they're starved). Use moth balls in small cups, piss, dog hair/human hair, hunting repellant (coyote urine or so) fishing line around the plot. Chicken wire if you can. Good luck. Glad I could help you out.
Hey, thanks alot. Just trying to get everything set up for next month. EDIT: Ill actually take a hike out today to set up some fence type structure with some fishing wire.
I got the mixins' down but if you can help me with this problem. I have some beautiful plants in veg right now in my veg cab 18/6 light schedule. If I were to take those and stick them outside right now would they be shocked into flowering early or do I need to slowly set my timer back an hour a day until it matches the sunrise sunset table in my area? They are all traiinwreck clones and from what I hear they are fussy about trying to flower early. I want them to veg proper and large and try to avoid stunting them by transfering them outside. ANY ADVICE WOULD HELP GREATLY! If it's to much of a hassle I'll just go from seed. But I picked the special pheno mother for these clones! So fuzzy so dank! So pretty! And I want to do this transferrence smoothly! HELP!
I'm not sure about that one TonyBalogna. I start from seeds and all outdoors. Maybe someone can help you out. Sorry. I don't think they would flower now or go into shock. It could have happened if you took them out in Feb or March (short light hours could bring early flowering in late winter, early Spring). I don't think it would be a problem now. But the TW clones might be a different story. Good luck. They normally should continue vegging until July/Aug when the buds will show. I'm growing TW too this year. You could pm Dankohzee as he did an indoor/outdoor grow with TW last year and did it smoothly and succesfully.
Hey, I just planted two seeds, started them in a greenhouse, April 2nd... The forecast calls for rain tomorrow and the next day, temps at a high of 55 and a low of 37... Will the seeds survive? If so, it'll probably take about a week for germination, correct?
I use celsius so I'm not sure. No rush in any case. Just wait until there are no more frosts/ or use a greenhouse like you said.
"After 1 month or so, take them out from the cups (cut the cups), and put them in 3-4 gallon pots in order to kill the males if non femmed before you put only females in the holes" Im confused, so your saying the standard 16 oz solo cup will be big enough until the marijuana plants show their sex? I thought the marijuana plants only show their sex close to harvesting not 30 days?