O.Ds 2017 organic outdoor grow

Discussion in 'Outdoor Grow Journals' started by Organic_Disciple, Jul 12, 2017.

  1. Hey guys. Missed yall. Some might remember me and some won't. I couldn't pop a bean 3 years ago. Pretty much learned everything I know here. Can't beat the help and vibes of this place so I couldn't resist trying to get back in here. Hoping to run into a few old friends. Maybe some people I don't care for too . You know who you are....

    So how i been you ask!? Been off work since December with a torn rotator cuff. Recovering now though. And get to spend everyday with the ladies! Anyways I know I'm late but the best part is around the corner. Let's drop some pics to get up to speed.

    Strains are Purple Flo Monster by someone you might know know. Green crack (dhn). Rascal OG. GDP. BOSS OG. Skywalker OG from seed and one from clone. Chocolate Hashberry(dhn) . And a small GG4 I planted late. Super excited about the strains.

    All planted in 65s. Built the dirt by hand 3 years ago and just maintaining/adding to it Every year.

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  2. Everything but the GG4 was planted may 20th.

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  3. I've recently ran into what seems to be a bit of a lockout. From adding too much top dress and teas. Wak told me to lay off the teas and top dress for awhile and hopefully it corrects itself. Soil p.h is about a 6 on litmus strips. Dropping fan leaves on a few plants. Too much organic matter will drop your p.h! Lol. So in the meantime I'm using epsom salt and fish hydroslyate foliar to get some N and aminos in there and hopefully keep them happy in hopes of soil p.h go back to a more optimal range. Any other inputs on this issue will be considered!
  4. So after some reading in regards to fungal vs bacterial dominated soil it seems I have gotten myself into a pickle lol. Noe I've got to try and increase bacterial populations in my soil as I've been going crazy with teas using fish and some with guano. Causing it to be more fungal dominated. Creating unusable ammonium nitrate our beloved plants can't use. Hence why I seem to have an N deficiency.

    So I'm going to try and introduce bacterial dominate teas using nothing but compost and ewc and mollases. Which I have tested at a more neutral p.h. hopefully this does the trick
  5. @waktoo ^^^ I would say your right.
  6. @waktoo I would say majority of the leaves that are yellowing aren't getting sun but allot of them are
  7. Forgot to mention headband

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  8. And cherry bomb 20170712_093837.jpg
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  9. I would not recommend this course of action. It's most likely why you're in the predicament that you're in right now...

    Without laboratory conditions, it's very difficult to brew the type of "dominate" teas that you feel you require. You're only going to proliferate the life that is present in the compost/EWC that you're using to brew your teas. There is no guarantee that you'll get what you want. If your pH is actually as low as your test strips indicate, you've been brewing bacterially "dominate" teas all along. When I used to brew teas, bacterium where always present in much greater concentrations compared to fungi. This was verified through microscopic analysis.

    Your N is tied up through microbial "immobilization". Bacterium are currently utilizing the various forms of nitrogen as a food source, and through the process of nitrification converting into the solubilized nitrate form, which is preferred by plants. When bacterium die of natural causes or are predated upon by other soil microbes/fauna, the nitrate is released into the soil solution where it is then available for plant uptake. By adding more bacterium by use of compost teas, you're only going to immobilize more of the available nitrogen from the soil solution, making what is there temporarily unavailable for plant uptake.

    I would be patient and stick to a water only program for right now. Don't add anything extra to your soil. If you're really concerned about your plant's lack of N, foliar feeding with the fish hydrolysate should help with that. Give your soil some time to find it's balance again...
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  10. Yes sir. Water from here on out. I'll keep a close eye on what is really yellowing also. I may have just panicked....but this is the reason why I come back here....thanks for quick class man. Really appreciate you taking the time to type that up for me.
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  11. @wetdog yes there 65s. Plants are sizeable for there pots. About another 3 weeks of veg for most of the strains
  12. No problem. Let me know how things are looking in a couple of weeks...
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  13. I wanted to let you know how much of a scrub I am. When i did the litmus test I was only gathering from the first couple inches of soil....you know where all the fungi are busy decomposing carbon materials like alfalfa hay and what not....then a friend told me to send in a soil test from about 6 inches below the surface.... then it dawned on me....why aren't i litmus testing there???.....theres no denying it's sitting in the 6.8 to 7 range...... I'm a scrub lol. Ive only been growing for 3 seasons now....ill give myself a break....
  14. Wak is correct in saying that without a microscope there is no way of being 100% certain what is dominant in a tea although there are ways to shift the environment to favor one over the other. For example the choice of your carbohydrate source, both organisms favor glucose (dextrose) and can easily process it although if you use white sugar (sucrose = fructose + glucose) bacteria will have an advantage in breaking it down to easier to use glucose. This would therefore give a slight advantage initially towards bacteria although the enzymes they produce would also benefit the fungi. Now if you select black strap molasses which also contains fructose and glucose but in isolated forms both have near equal advantage in processing carbohydrates. Or one could go with brown rice flour (if you have grown shrooms you will know what I mean) or many seed meals which fungi will get a head start on. Again both organisms can often use all of the above but some get a head start which can provide them with an advantage since they are in competition for resources. Another area would be temperature if you elevate the temperature to over 85f bacteria will gain a significant advantage over fungi which will be inhibited or possibly killed although spores would survive. So if you where to take fresh compost as it cools you the bacteria should also have a head start because much of the fungi would have been killed in the process although their spores would remain and they would eventually germinate and establish themselves again. Or if you maintain a lower temperature both will be inhibited although the fungi will be more adept at the lower temperature. The same compost mentioned before also could be dried which would kill the bacteria but allow for the spores to germinate and establish themselves quicker. Fungi also tend to prefer a more neutral environment over acidic, again anyone who has grown shrooms will tell you gypsum is your friend. Eventually your medium will no longer be viable for growing mushrooms as they have dropped the pH through the methods they use to breakdown and acquire nutrients. FRESH EWC will be extremely bacteria dominant because of the flora contained inside a worm. Which brings up the next important aspect which is limit food. Inorder to get anything out of these advantages one has to limit the food available so the other never catches up and apply immediately. Mind you this is only in the solution and not the soil ecosphere which will be dominant not matter what you pour on unless it drastically changes conditions and inhibits one over the other. At the end of the day you really need a microscope to know for sure if it is or over the other and anything otherwise is blind magik.
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  15. Also if you need a quick way to covert N you need some medium from some ones Bio filter on their aquirium which is for converting N to keep the fish alive and process their waste. Drop filter media into a aerated bucket with white sugar and some N source like blood meal/fish meal and use at 24 hrs. It will be mostly bacteria trying to convert N. Also look up soil zyme, it is this product they use for treating lawns, golf courses, and ponds/lakes. It is basically concentrated enzymes produced by bacteria which gives them a boost by making their environment more favorable by adding the enzymes needed for bacteria to complete their various biological processes. I am not saying you should go out and buy that product but pointing out that is how it works. It is one I have just happen to get my hands on for free, it costs way to much to really make sense using. But if for some reason you can get a butt load of it for free then it makes sense, same way any of those enzymes work like hygrozyme ECT ECT
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  16. Great job man, plants still look good despite the small problems you're having.
  17. Thanks man. Small problems now will lead to big problems later though. Especially the transition and final stages in flower

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