Northeast Pest (budworm) Control

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Outdoors' started by timhdr1, Feb 23, 2016.

  1. Hey all. So id like to discuss and receive some advice on an issue I have had to deal with since I started growing two years ago. I grow outdoors in Massachusetts. If any of you know the climate of New England you'll know that ive have my work cut out for me. However ive had a pretty good handle on preventing mold and most pests with the exception of one....the bud worm. Bud worm, tobacco worm, call it what you want, it has decimated my crop each year. I need a solution ASAP.
    I start my plants from seed in my heated greenhouse each year and depending on temperature in the spring I like to have them transplanted into their 7.5 gallon pots and outside in the backyard by the first few weeks in april. From there they stay in pots and are moved around a few times a year to receive optimal sunlight. I grow organic so i refuse to spray any kind of pesticide unless it is a TRUE ORGANIC REPELLENT. I have tried to spray safer soap in the springtime to try and repel the moths thay lay the eggs that these bastards hatch from but i still have them hatch and start destroying my crops anywhere from 2 weeks until harvest in late august/sept to a month before harvest with some of my long flowering sativas. The best possible solution I have come up with is building a "screenhouse" with mosquito netting, but after calculating the time and cost i may as well just build another greenhouse which isnt really possible yet. (i plan on it in the future).
    So if you guys have any experience dealing with these bastards please please let me know. What you did or what you think i could do. I cant watch 40% of my crop be destroyed in the last few weeks before harvest any more!!

  2. [*][​IMG]\t\t\t[*][​IMG]\t\t\t[*][​IMG]\t\t\t[*][​IMG] [​IMG]BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki). is the control agent of choice.. It's a biological with a very narrow range of insects it affects.. It's only effective in the gut of a caterpillar and it has to actually eat a portion of the plant..
    Bonide Thuricide is the one I can get local at Armstrong's garden center and I apply every week as it has no real persistence..
    I run a low power 15 watt bug zapper with most of the grill chopped away so I can brush it clean each morning..


  3. I appreciate your feedback. And i will definitely be purchasing. Just a few questions. You said you apply the solution every week. You start doing this at the start of flower or a bit later? Also the bug zapper, you use that against the caterpillars themselves or the moths earlier in the summer?

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  4. #4 aussiemark, Feb 25, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 25, 2016
    I use diff spray from Brassnwoods but u should start spraying now and do it every week I do mine from the day I put them into the ground and all during the veg stage. and budding as for the zapper yeah it for moths they lay eggs on your girls and that how u get caterpillers I just use solo power ones u can get from any hardware store
  5. Start of flower when I put them outside.. I run 4 full set of flowering plants per year as it never freezes here so I keep spraying year round.. It's less a problem in the winter months but after having the little fuckers destroy my first good outside crop I never let my guard down when it comes to caterpillars..

  6. Great thanks for your input guys. i'll research BT a bit more and probably get some for once they go outside.

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  7. timhdr1, do let us know if that worsks.
  8. Those buds were harvested 2 years ago.
    Yes BT works. Should be used as a part of a pest management program along with other products like neem, spinosad and azadirachtin.
    Alternating products keeps the bugs from developing immunity to the pesticides.
    Weekly spraying is being proactive, not reactive.
    • Agree Agree x 1

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