Hey everyone, I was out sourcing some amendments for my next batch of soil today and I purchased this bag of North Country Organics fertilizer I bought the 25 pound bag. Buy Pro-Start premium organic fertilizer at Dirt Works online organic garden center My question for everyone is how should I work this into my soil mixture? How many cups per cubic feet? Do I mix this with the rest of my amendments and then add 2-3 cups per cf? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The answer to your question is yes. If you built your own soil and are not using already amended soil to start with. Ideally I prefer to keep my Dust's and Meal's separate. 2-3 cups of meals per cubic foot and 3-4 cups of dust per cubic foot. Wack it with a balanced AACT and let it nutrient cycle for 4-6 weeks keeping it moist and not wet. I have found with my mix 6-8 weeks is better. HTH MGB
Yes I am using my own soil, I made a 30 gallon batch already now I am going to be making another 30 gallons this batch will have a little more variety than the last one. As for the fact that it has the dusts and meals combined will that affect how much I add of the rest of my amendments? I have a feeling I will probably need help getting my amendment quantities figured out I just do not want to screw this up.
Nah. If you are going to use that pre-mixed stuff you bought just mix it in with what you have already. The reason for the large amount of dust at a separate interval is not for so much for NPK value it is to provide "little condos" for your micro-heard. I can't stress enough to be patient and let your soil nutrient cycle. If you don't you will see it particularly in light feeder strains. I use to only cycle 4 weeks and I would get a slight burn on a particular strain. This happened 2 grows in a row. The next time I cycled I extended it to 6 weeks. The same strain that burnt prior had no burn at all. Don't get me wrong it came out of it after a couple of nodes growth when it did happen, but I myself don't like to see any burn. If I see burn it means I did something wrong. HTH PS. Don't so much worry about how much of each source just try in the future to purchase separate dust's and meals if you are able to source them. Put an equal amount of each source in a bin mix it up good then add the proper amounts of both dust's and meal's to your soil you are creating. Then bag up the rest, label it, and store in a cool dry place for future use. I probably have enough bagged up for the next five years. I use the same mix in my summer vegetable garden. MGB
Hello Ers, Ideally it would be best if you can store your finished soil in the actual planter you are going to use and treat it as though it had a plant in it. I say this because protozoa make lanes for good bacteria to travel it is like a city under there (soil food web). This is just one of many benefits you get from not disturbing your soil. The soil food web does its best work when left alone. When you go tearing up the roads the soil food web needs to begin reconstructing itself all over again. This is the whole purpose of the term "no till gardening". I myself would not store in an air tight bag for 2 reasons: First: Good bacteria need oxygen to survive. Second: If you have no oxygen you provide an environment for anaerobic bacteria (bad bacteria) to thrive. HTH MGB
I use Smart Pots for my left-over soil, I am going to start throwing some clover seed in them to further cycle my soil. Funny how people stopped cooking and started cycling.... ha
I've used their dehydrated, pelletized organic poultry manure many times - they provide quality products at a reasonable price. j
Anyone use the pro-grow in their mix? I used lime and pro-grow in my veggie garden last year augmented with teas with crazy good results and thinking of using it for the ladies globally in my mix.