Noob here, I need a hand

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by TexasGrowerily, Jan 20, 2017.

  1. What type of medium; soil or hydro? Hydro, DWC
    What brand and type of soil? na
    Indoors or outdoors? indoors
    What strain? kluster bomb
    How old are the plants? 3 weeks
    What type of lights and how many watts? Led Cobbs 800 watt, 2 5500k led bulbs 26 watt each
    How far from the lights? 30"
    What is your watering frequency and source of water? Hydro...
    What, how much and when was it fed? NPK? Flora line, ppm is 350
    What is the medium/runoff pH and PPM if in hydro? 500ppm w/ noots
    What are the temps and humidity in the room? 71F and 65%
    What size pots? 10" net pots
    Any bugs? Look real close. NO
    Any other pertinent info? Received the clones 4 days ago. New leaves that have popped out have the same discoloration. I am trying to figure out if it is an issue with my set-up or an issue that the breeder had and the plants have not recovered. The roots when i received them where about 4" long and a nice white color. Clones where 2 1/2 weeks old from the mother plant. BTW this is my first grow ever. So I am a noob. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
    edit* Here is the grow journal as well. If you need more info or more pics
    Beginners journey into dwc... Construction to Harvest.

     
  2. I have not used any calmag myself and I do not know if the breeder used any either. My water is 170 ppm out the tap and that is what I used. I was told by quite a few people that I wouldn't need it since my tap had high ppm.
     
  3. Add Cal/Mag and get some Nitrogen in them and see if it changes imo
     
  4. Do you have bugs?
     
  5. Nope. No bugs. I looked through the magnifying glass and did not see any thing. I went in head and did a water change. I also ordered some Cal Mag. I'll post up when it gets here and I apply it.
     
  6. People say it's more simple to have a pre-made super soil (nutrients already in soil) and simply just add water and maybe molasses/and or Cal-Mag. I personally prefer to feed and control what I give but have a little soil buffer, so get a light mixed peat/soil (biobizz or foxfarm). Give half strength nutrients in veg till over a foot (~4 weeks) then up dosage to full veg feed eventually.. pure water feed just before flower then commence flower nutrients on the new 12/12 schedule at full dose as the soil nutrient will have been spent already. If I see even minor burnt or curled up tips on leaves I flush water feed and then carry on as normal.

    Cal-Mag is a must have and another must have is also a reliable PH meter (can't stress this enough) not even ppm/EC is as important as Ph sometimes. Wrong PH Can ruin a crop and cause major nutrient lockouts and even premature plant death or no flower developments! Ideal PH is 6.2-6.8 in soils and peat based mixes.. non soil or soilless mediums like Hydro, coco, pebbles etc 5.8-6.2ph Is a good range.

    The EC/ppm for plants NEVER needs to go above 2.0 /1000ppm really.. unless of course using CO2 or having amazing root systems. Lol.


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  7. Almost forgot .. for amazing roots the cheap way use Sea-weed/kelp extract ..and never feed nutes in last week of flower or stop feeding nutes altogether the second u see some
    Amber trichomes (usually week 7-8 on indicas).. a small scope will help you find them, they'll often appear on top bud leaves.. the orangey/brown trichs are degraded THC as we all know but also give you a couch lock buzz when toked that's said to be good for relaxation, pain and sleep!

    Always transplant if ur plants seem droopy quickly even after being recently fed .. this is a sign of root bound which is why many prefer rhizo/smart air pruning pots! A bitch to transplant from and feed quickly but worth the effort and they also prevent root boundedness.


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  8. Thanks bud for the tips, but I'm growing in dwc lol
     
  9. Well the wilting is not good.. have u checked ur ph is around 6.0 range? When plants wilt they're not growing or developing.. leaves should be flat or slightly elevated and perky when they're healthy.. any curling or twisting is usually due to Ph.. root boundedness.. and over/under feeding..


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  10. Are the roots touching the DWC water yet? If not, are you just pouring nutes over the rocks to manually? ...also, if you're going to run low nutrients. You could also have a root issue. Are pearily new roots growing?
     
  11. The roots are touching the water. I check the pH daily. I keep it at 6.0. I was running 1/4 recommended noots in the res. Based on recommendations from everyone else I went ahead and changed out the water yesterday and went full strength on the nutes. The clones came to me with the yellowing issue. So it could have been a issue with the person I got them from. I will check them again later when the lights come on and see how they look after a day with full streagth nutes.
     
  12. Could be due to a change in environment and nutrient feed. Takes a week to adapt for most young plants .. I recommend you add cal-mag at recommended dose for young plants and use half strength nutrient feeds.. with some low concentrate H202 ..


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  13. Well fuck me. I think I figured out the problem. I ph'ed my water today and it came out to be a perfect 6.0. For shit and giggles I decided to retest with my chemical set. What do you know. I'm in the high 6 to low 7 range. Retested again. Same results. Busted out the calibration kit for my digital pH reader. My shit was about 1.5 off. In other words I have been ph'ing my water to about 7.5 when I thought it was 6.0. FML. I ph'ed it down to the right lvls now. A real 6.0. Noob mostake. Shit it's a learning game. Lol
     
  14. lol if you have a cheap ph meter, calibrate it every couple weeks. I have an idea about what ph my tap is. When it appears too high, I calibrate and I'm usually right. Mine strays about .2 every couple weeks.


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  15. Ok.. glad you resolved that.. bring ph to 5.8 for a week and she will bounce back.


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