A large bed would be the one to seriously consider and here are some books to explain why I say that... The Role of Root Exudates in Rhizosphere Interactions With Plants & Other Organisms The Role of Root Exudates in Rhizosphere Interactions With Plants & Other Organisms.pdf 452.78KB \nSoil Microbiology, Ecology & Biochemistry Soil Microbiology, Ecology & Biochemistry.pdf 10.44MB \nBiostimulants: What They are and How They Work Biostimulants.pdf 136.67KB \nThe benefits of companion planting is measured in the atmosphere (pheromones primarily) and the root zone. The pheromones provide insect repellent benefits as well as attracting pollinator insects. \nIn the root zone there are a lot of exchanges going on, i.e. ions, biostimulants, signaling, etc. The ion exchange alone is enough reason to consider having multiple plants if you're using large containers. \nLet the FUD begin!! \nCC
More Evernote saves.. LOL No FUD from me... Just believe and it will be. Thanks for the response, CC!
I'd do one big bad ass body of soil. If I could magically redo my room and walk downstairs voila it's done, here's how it would go: 2 rows each of a slightly raised bed of soil 24" deep x 3' wide x 15' long. How much soil does that make for each bed? 90cuF / aprox 630 gal? YES please Ten one pound plants total - boom!
Another question, \nI put 2lbs of worms into a horizontal migration (Northwest redworm design) bin 3 months ago. My medium was as follows: \n4 gallons of organic soil (peat, castings, lava rock & fix it mix) 4 gallons of finished compost 5 gallons of aged top dressings off previous plants (ewc, comfrey, chamomile, fix it mix, etc.) 2.5 gallons of last seasons leaves. \nI've been feeding here and there with cantaloup, coffee, fix-it-mix, comfrey, etc. \nAm I safe to assume this product is good to go as my Vermi component in the soil I will be mixing? \nI also plan to be using a bag of Oly Mountain. \nThanks for the help! \nTwB
TwB I have absolutely nothing but good things to say about Oly Mountain Fish Compost. I use it both in the potting soil I mix together, as food stock for the worm bins along with Stutzman's Organic Chicken Compost (i.e. not manure) and my homemade compost. You've to a good mix that you're putting together... CC
Thanks for having me Chunk! Hi Treedogg! Glad to see you here as well! LmFao! Thanks TWB! Where does the Eagle 20 and Mighty Wash fit into that regime?! Hell yeah! I'll roll up a joint of some purple and we'll be set! Finally got my browser working with GC, I need to go through your thread and catch up. Miss all your great info! Much Respect! P-
Steve Since I don't sell MJ and haven't for 34 years I couldn't tell you in grams or ounces what I yield. I count the number of 1/2 gallon Mason jars I fill after I harvest a cycle. The last run I finished and dried filled 5 jars = 2.5 gallons and that was growing 2 of the TO plants in #7 Smart Pots. That's good enough for me. If I was all that concerned I could grow 3 or maybe 4 plants but I'm not sure why I would do that since it would involve more work. I'm opposed to more work in many (all?) areas of my life - it's a bitch getting old & tired. Trust me on that! LOL
Coot- I have spent a great deal of time over the last year reading your writings on different boards under different monikers. It has been time well spent for me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and helping people cut through all of the BS in this industry. BlueJay- Thanks for sharing your no till gardens. I have always wondered about using the unused plant material for my garden. I felt like I was throwing away something good. Same with tossing my dirt after each run. I now have the courage to try this on my own. Thanks to everyone else who has contributed to this thread.
Any recommendations on commercially available worm castings? Any thoughts on worm compost versus worm castings?
SLO county worm farm makes an excellent vermicompost "black diamond vermicompost" but you will also pay for it - that is central California local only. Am I wrong in thinking Worm Power puts out a quality product? Otherwise I'm pretty warry of commercially available worm castings - the whole "what you put in" thing. I'd rather use the best thermopholic compost in my area....which is Malibus, then using ANY of the large producers of castings available in local nurseries/hydro shops......I haven't seen any castings in this area I'd want to use.
I am a short drive from Portland so I get most of my amendments from Concentrates. They do have Malibu Bu's blend. There is a lab near here called Earthfort that had lab tested castings and compost available last time I was there. I was also looking into the worm power. I can't find any worm castings that actually list what they feed their worms so I always assume they are inferior. I can't wait to start making my own, but I am hesitant since I have never tried it yet. Still need to do some more research on that topic before I feel comfortable.
hounddog Malibu BU is a find product - a bit up there on my definition of 'high dollar' but it's a good material. Another good one at Concentrates to consider using is Oly Mountain Fish Compost. Worm Power is an excellent product and so is the vermicompost from Northwest Redworms in Camas, Washington. Way, way less expensive. HTH CC
hounddog There is a source for certified organic compost that is made without manure. It's from the Hood River Valley district and it's made from barley straw, cuttings form the organic orchards' trees, etc. You pick it up at the Foster Road exit off I-205. $29.00 per c.y. - you and I can't make compost for that amount of money. Never happen. You run this in some #100 Smart Pots and add some redworms or cocoons and in a few months you'll have more vermicompost than you'll know what to do with. #100 pots are less than $20.00 with the 'good dude discount' at grow stores. 1 c.y. = $29.00 2 ea. #100 Smart Pots - $39.00 Now you need some worms and since you've save a ton of money already put some of your savings into redworms. Even if you paid $20.00 per lb. and let's say you started with 5 lbs. in each Smart Pot, you've got less than $270.00 invested in this project which will give you 1 c.y. of vermicompost and your worm colonies will have increased by at least 7x so you can either add more worms in the next batch that will give you faster results if that's your goal or you could expand your operation and set-up 4 worm bins. 1 c.y. = 27 c.f. and at $40.00 per c.f. you've got over $1,000.00 worth of vermicompost to sell, use, give away, barter, etc. Thinking long-term is the key - use Worm Power or Northwest Redworms in the interim until your self-sustaining and you're operating on other people's money. Legally. HTH
Because it's worth repeating. Hounddog - doing what's mentioned above is arguably the most cost effective and both the easiest and best thing you could do for your home and indoor garden.....wait...cheap plus easy plus best!?! Those words don't usually go together at Joe blow hydro heaven!!