Hello Everyone I’m switching over to Pumice instead of perlite. I bought this bonsai Jack pumice will this be good to use in my pots since I’m using The recipe from the first page? Thanks everyone Happy holidays Pumice – BonsaiJack.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For sure, just not what I was goin for this time around.. All good though! I'm gonna turn em into FPJ's and they can feed the next plants. Back into the soil with you until you're female, I say, even if it's in the form of another plant! lmao they're making me do this the hard way
I'll always get 100% females from reg seed.. eventually! Lol for real though, it's a bummer to get males if you're not looking to cross them, but they must be close to perfect for a cannabis FPJ especially since they should have everything ya want in them if you grew in no-till pots. I got no complaints about what should be a few harvests worth of nutes from some males! I'll mix it in w/ alfalfa/kelp teas and i bet it will work killer
A couple of months ago i decided to cut down a plant about 10 weeks into flower (probably had about 6 weeks to go, i just hated the plant) i then turned 2 pounds of fresh bud into about a litre of FPJ, it smells incredible, tastes awesome too, i use it as a foliar in early flower to to speed up flowering, it's made a huge difference on some of my jamaican sativas who can take a month of 12/12 before you see any sign of flowering. I also like to wonder if i have possibly created the most expensive fertilizer on earth.
Lol, sounds like it. I'll be joining you soon but with just leaf, hopefully will provide similar results in veg!
I've found that using only canna leaf the FPJ dosent seem as strong as it could, probably because cannabis is not the best biodynamic accumulator, the plant still seems to like it but not as much as say a dandellion or stinging nettle fpj. I've had pretty good results with spinach and kale but nothing as good as the dandelion, stinging nettle and canna combination for veg, if you use it as a folliar don't forget to add some apple cider vinegar to the mix, it really makes a difference. Just check for korean natural farming cheat sheets for ratios
Looks great! Just that it’s 6.5X more expensive that what I pay and 20X more for others. Your perlite is just as good really,if your perlite has broken down it will have taken years unless you have been re-mixing it which is a no-no in notill. I use pumice because I get 9 gallons for $10. I have a portable large pot and really wish I used the lighter perlite.
Thanks Bud! Your exactly right about the perlite at first I just ordered 2 quarts then later that day I seen that they had the bigger bags for cheaper it was still pricey I think for 2 gallons it was $28 so I canceled the 2 gallon order and am just using the two quarts which isn’t a lot of course but they wound up giving me a $10 gift card so actually I only paid I think $7 for just 2 quarts after reading your post and posts from @Wet I figured Perlite would be fine that’s all I ever used plus I’ll add the little bit of pumice I have and the rest perlite. No I don’t mix or till my soil at all. Thanks again for the information @ocitown it was much appreciated! Happy Growing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The difference is Pumice brings trace minerals to the table while perlite does not. If you can get pumice, get it!
If your building a notill from page 1 and sourcing pumice will not be cost effective,it won’t make one bit of difference. Also,if weight is any factor at all,get the perlite!
sure it's not as available for most people, luckily I have a source nearby and the price is comparable to perlite.
Might be worded a bit confusing but I think he just basically saying to get whats more cost effective for you. Is there really a significant benefit to using pumice over perlite?
I have to agree. It’s easy to say anything is the best when one uses it with good results. We Need the scientific stoner test!! Who will do the side by side testing???? Beuller??? Beuller??.......
Correct The most expensive part of my mix by far (and I am very happy I used it) is BU compost and his prices for pumice are even higher. Never seen one side by side done on this thread but it has been discussed many times, benefits are minimal but if it ain’t cost effective imho it’s not worth it. There are many cheaper ways add quality to ones mix.
Hi! New member here and new to real organic gardening. I was going to try subcool's supersoil but since reading this thread I want to try a version of the no till soil. Unfortunately I've already bought Biobizz all mix soil so I'll have to go with that. I guess it's a pretty good base with equal amounts of ewc, perlite and sphagnum peat. However there are some nutrients already I guess. How would you suggest to go ahead to amend this soil to create good no till base for years to come? Unfortunately I don't have access to crab meal. Do I need Oyster or lime? I have following: Kelp meal Neem cake Bone meal Blood meal Bat guano Sears rock dust Azomite Granite dust Dolomite lime Can easily get: Malted Barley Oyster shells Biochar Kelp
I am currently studying biology at Rimouski University, (great program by the way, the school has a lab on an icebreaker!!). The problem i am currently having with ''scientific'' side by side tests in organic soil is the infinite variables involved, i basically can't ever pinpoint what is actually making a difference or not...so as most studies in botany i have to fall back on hydroponics to correclty control inputs. That being said, the data we are gathering out of our organic soil beds (we mostly grow green beans) are very interresting...just a bitch to analyse, so much data...all the microbial life, then fungi, nutrients, contaminents.....and the list goes on. Very hard to be taken seriously by your peers.