Is there a specific organic blend for moisturizing Rapid Rooters for clones? Like distilled water/Aloe and Full power? I'm guessing the FP is much like my old friend Superthrive?
I make an alfalfa and kelp tea in distilled water and let set overnight. Then the plugs go into the tea. No ful-power. Cuts go straight into fresh aloe fillet for 10-15 min then into plug. Fill up to the rib with distilled water and mist the hood.
Appreciate the tech. My dome is home made with no "ribs". Sorry,it's been over 9 years. What ratios for the tea? Using a 12"x12"x12" dome,top and bottom are the same(12x12x6)...Is it best cracked for air or no?
I use a couple alfalfa pellets and a sprinkling of kelp. I usually mix it in about 1-2 cup of water. I strain the mix before I drop the rooters. I keep the dome closed for the first week. Slowly open the vents about 15% per day until full open. If you don’t have ribs a film of distilled water should work. The main thing being the rooter doesn’t dry. You are after the salicylic acid in the kelp and aloe. The alfalfa has triacontanol and nitrogen that keeps them green and healthy
Thank you!! Is it possible to find small quantities of alfalfa? This is my setup. Would this off to the side in my shower with my 200watt LED 30+" be too much?
That should work well. I just use 60w led. Clones don’t need much. I always have a 50lb sack of alfalfa sitting around. It’s like $20 at the feed store and brings so much. The kelp/alfalfa tea from Coot is the shit.
This is one thing I regret w/ buying my first mix - spending $35 on 2kg of alfalfa powder and then learning that people just use ground up feed pellets.. Lol, oops.
So I am planning on following this schedule.. Day 1 Plain water Day 2 No watering Day 3 MBP top-dress watered in with Aloe/Fulvic/Silica (agsil or your silica source of choice) Day 4 No watering Day 5 Plain water Day 6 Neem/Kelp tea Day 7 No watering Day 8 Plain water Day 9 No watering Day 10 Coconut Water Day 11 No watering First Feeding (PMB Topdress): · Powdered Malted Barley TopDress · 200x Aloe Vera Extract 1gram/gal · Or Use whole Aloe Blade, Use Aloe Gel, pureed ¼ cup/gal · Fulpower Fulvic Acid ½ oz per/gal · Agsil (Silica) Second Feeding (Neem/Kelp Tea): · ¼cup Neem Seed Meal per/5gal · ¼cup Kelp Meal per/5gal · Brew for 12-24 Hours, Strain, Feed · Used as Feed as Well as Foliar Third Feeding (Coconut Water): · Fulpower Fulvic Acid ½ oz per/gal · 200x Organic Aloe Powder 1gram/gal · Agsil Biweekly: · ½ tsp TM-7(Humic Acid) per 5gal Is this a good schedule? Do you just do this for a couple years regardless of what the plants doing? Then you tone down a bit because the soil quality is up? Only thing is I don't have fulvic or humic. Some people said its not necessary... I am making a shit ton of LABS and was thinking that would serve the same purpose, ish. What I was hoping to use most regularly to amend is alfalfa meal, kelp meal (teas), LABS, compost/EWC topdressing. The thing is I'm not sure when to topdress compost/EWC, when to mulch (just always have mulch?), when to apply labs in this schedule. I'm thinking apply LABS with malted barley powder and maybe foliar once a week. Figuring a legit schedule out is proving a bit confusing. I feel like if I use this schedule I should follow it exactly.. but that there are lots of ways to amend that could work well. Is there any "go-to" sort of standard schedule people are following? Seems like eveyrone has their own variation and they all just kind of work..
I'd suggest just feeding your plants when and if they need it. Leave the watering schedule for the hydro guys. Everyone's situation and setup is different and should be treated as such. Pale green plants are hungry...dark green plants need nothing. RD
Seems good.. isn't there any "regularly used" amendments you'd want around though? Like how do you know what to feed? Could I get by using just compost/castings, kelp, neem meal, LABS, and malted barley powder? I'm just wondering what I should have a store of, basically. I guess just try to learn waht different deficiencies look like and amend as you go?
I would omit the tm7 unless you have a problem and need it. I would also go real easy on Fulpower, just use it once a grow. I feel using too much of these early on, makes problems in future grows and aren’t really needed, but a nice extra once in a while. Cheers Os
Currently have seedlings not much bigger than in profile pic. I didn't expect them to even take at all, was just messing w/ new light. I will transplant them in 2-4 weeks to the 15 gals, or just throw good clones in if they crap out (they're stunting/drooping a bit for various reasons). It should be good w/ the initial mix for at least a full cycle as is, right? But you want to amend the soil for future cycles, it's not so much feeding the plant, i mean it is, but you're also prepping the soil and maintaining it constantly, for replanting right after you chop..right? You want it to be suitable for veg when you chop.. Wondering how to maintain the correct balance i guess to keep it going
I read more on this. It has to do with sugars, interesti "The best organic farmers often boast about growing nutrient-dense,high-brix plants. But brix is still a foreign concept to many indoor growers. Brix is a measurement of the sugar content in the sap, expressed as a percentage. Generally speaking, the higher the brix, the healthier the plant." "One degree Brix is 1 gram of sucrose in 100 grams of solution and represents the strength of the solution as percentage by mass." "The more efficiently your plants take up water and nutrients, the higher the brix. Since organic biostimulants improve the uptake of minerals, the judicious use of additives such as amino acids, humic and fulvic acids, and seaweed extracts can help improve brix. The proper balance of minerals in the nutrient solution can also have a positive effect, particularly the potassium-to-nitrate ratio." Building up the Brix for Healthier, Nutrient-Dense Crops Interestingly, I recall reading earlier this week that chlorophyll turns to sugar during the curing process.. right? So you'd think, the greener/healthier your plants, the more chlorophyll (without being too dark due to overfeed etc) might be an indicator of higher brix. And then when you properly cure it, your bud has a high sugar content due to all the chlorophyll converting, giving it a great smell and taste? More reading, and yes the more chlorophyll the higher the brix: "The greater the chlorophyll density, the greater the glucose production from photosynthesis and the higher the brix. The key here is to recognise that you can not achieve optimum chlorophyll density in the absence of the full spectrum of minerals. The blotches, stripes and pale colours associated with mineral deficiencies create a chlorosis where sugar factories in the chloroplasts are compromised. You can't really achieve high brix without good mineralisation, so they go hand in hand. It is also cyclical because, in this instance, the 30% glucose that is gifted to the root zone microbes becomes less in chlorotic situations, and as a response there are less minerals delivered by microbes to the plants." "The refractive index [how they measure brix] is based upon the dissolved solids present in the leaf. There has been little work done on comparative fruit brix levels." .....basically what this all means to me is, yes "high brix" is a thing, but you don't need to buy high brix bottled nutes to achieve it... What sealed no-till for me was reading organic high brix formula ingredients and seeing the exact same things. Many of you already have and maintain high brix in your no-till setups. More sugar in the plant = higher density of chlorophyll = darker green, healthier looking leaves = high brix, probably. So if you've thought you were missing out on "high brix weed".. you probably have been growing it lol, don't worry, they probably aren't smoking some kinda next level shit, they just have to tell themselves that to justify the investment vs just doing cheap old no-till hahah. Though, it is much more complicated to figure all this out on your own vs buying bottles.
I'd say just run those and gain all you can good and bad,that is the best way to learn this stuff for sure ime.
Keep in mind this is just an example schedule and should be adjusted according the watering needs of your plants, which isn't going to necessarily be every other day.