No-Till Gardening: Revisited

Discussion in 'Organic Growing' started by MountainOrganics, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. Sorry I wasn't clear,I meant can I pre mix the water with MBP then add to the pots because im watering a small quantity which prolly won't dissolve the powder.
    Also can this be added on top/through the mulch layer as well?
     
  2. When I got my 300 RW worm cup the guy said just add 3-4 worms to each pot.
    I added prolly 10-20
    My question is can/will there ever be too many worms in a pot or do they self regulate themselves?
     
  3. Is the 50205 Blumat the correct moisture meter?
     
  4. [​IMG] the carnage and the survivors [​IMG]


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  5. Nothing like some SoCal sunshine raised nugs, great job neighbor!
    I harvested two plants over a week ago, and still have four left that'll go until the end of the month and beyond. Here's the closest one - Queen Mother
    [​IMG][​IMG]

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  6. Even if you wanted to grow a 10+lb plant there is no reason to have started vegging them a month ago. Stunting your plants is never a good thing as it invites pests and other problems. Soil mass is the most important thing you can provide plants especially if you want to grow trees. A 10 month veg with 'questionable' clones is... 'questionable' to say the least.
    If I were to try growing the biggest plants I could, I would start with seed in January or early February. Each plant would have a minimum of 500 gallons of soil.
    RD
     
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  7. I completely understand.
    This is just my reintro to my old 11 year old hobby transforming to NT then outdoors,a test if you will.
    BUT,I am listening to your every word and taking them to heart.
    These "questionable" clones are now free from the bad guys and looking better than any plant I have ever grown in a dead soil.
    That said,I am on the hunt for "professional" strains,ones which are as opposite to questionable as could ever be!
    When I get these,they will take the place of said questionable plants which will just go to flower.
    I'm in So. Cal. so my guess(not being an outdoor guy)these plants would go outside near the warmer months of March/April to finish vegging and flower come August-September-October.

    500 gallon may be optimum for trees but I must find some happy medium living in the city,although my property is VERY private to all my neighbors.
    My best sun is poolside and these "trees" must be on pallets with wheels(not an issue)so I will need to think hard and long about your "500 gallon" tree.
    Maybe I will do one 500 and two 100's,dunno but from what your saying my best bet for going big is to use a great pheno in a NT 500 gallon starting in January or March?
    I may get this pheno in clone form(may be the only way) in November or December.
    In this case I would be growing it indoors a few months under LED then it would go outdoors once 70F. is constant.

    The pot size indoors would be one of my questions.
    In my experience I grow plants in pot sizes as needed for their need for root growth,and indoors this usually stopped for me at 5-10 (and was prolly pushing it too).
    This NT may well be new territory for me.
    Any insight to pot size with this plan would be appreciated and moving it outside next year to a 500 is still an option for me.

    lm sure your correct in that the bigger the pot the bigger the tree.
    I guess I better start looking into the footprint of this 500 because I know the 200 is about the size of a standard pallet!

    any idea which large fabric pots would be the better choice,sounds like you may know?

    Thanks for all your support!
     
  8. So Cal temps are ever so forgiving and we can grow outside 12 months a year.
    Only June and July provide enough hours of sunlight to maintain veg.

    June 1st = Take clones, Harvest the Spring set, Set out the summer plants.
    Oct 15th = Harvest the summer plants. Put the fall set out in the just vacated holes. Take clones
    Dec 31st = Harvest the fall plants. Set out winter group. Take Clones
    March 15th = Harvest the winter plants set out Spring plants. Take clones.

    This gives me 10 weeks of flower time on the 3 off season sets and it's worked for years like this.
    I take my clones off the fully veg plants I'm setting out each cycle.

    Now the vegging part can be done any number of ways. I usually do it in an old garden shed with 4 T5HO strip lights but it can be done outside with a clamp light over them to keep them awake at night. Don't need more then a 15 watt CFL to keep them awake.
    Link to my main thread is next to my signature.
    BNW
     
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  9. Local knowledge is priceless. I think you already said it without saying it.... grow smaller plants and get more harvests in.
    In my area a greenhouse is required to even get 1 harvest in a year and this means pulling tarp or heating it in September/October. It's trying to snow right now...lol.
    RD
     
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  10. An American Dream - White Picket Fences and Marijuana in the So Cal Sun
    Here is a link to my large size Self Irrigating Planters that do an excellent job of keeping plants wet enough even during the worst of our triple diget heat waves.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    BNW
     
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  11. Thank you!

    Now I'm learning about "our"growing climate in regards to veg/flowering.
    So only June and July support outdoor veg here in Cali.?
    My thinking I would just put plants outside once it was warmer in April would have triggered it to flower?
    My first outdoor was this year,I got clones and out side the went to harden July 1st.
    Started flowering about August 1st so I assumed that was the beginning of our yearly flowering cycle and every month after winter would veg till August,WRONG.

    So the only way to grow trees outdoors is to add lighting till June?
    Indoors OR outdoor lighting till June?

    So a seedling/clone in January grown indoors 4 months till June transplanted outdoors into a 500 gallon pot could veg another 2 months to become a tree?

    Seems only 6 months veg would only need 200 gallons to grow to its fullest extent,I am wrong yes?
     
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  12. Mixing another 2 ft.³ for next year,I will plant a cover crop and play in it with a large SP till then.

    Is there any advantage to aging this mix?
    I'm using 25% WC/75% Malibu compost.
    Question,it said 1/2-1 cup amendments,I used a full cup per last time.
    Is there any reason to use the 1/2 vs a full cup?
     

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  13. I gotta move to California haha no wonder why you guys are the top producers
    Poolside with a monster pot tree hanging over ur pool like palm trees sounds like a good spot, just remember sunlight is more important than soil when it comes to yield
     
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  14. In your situation, I would add 1/2 now, and then 1/2 a month or even the day before you intend to use it. This route will help to maintain the level of 'secondary metabolites' in the mix. (Things like PGR's, gibberellins, etc from kelp meal).
    This is actually my preferred method when storing soil mix, and all the other mixes I whip up.
    I personally feel it is much easier to cover the mix with damp cardboard than using a cover crop (no access to light needed during storage), but if you can do it easily, more power to you and your mix.
    cheers
    os
    cheers
    os
     
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  15. Man I'm definitely seeing the structure difference in growth after putting that high nitrogen bat quano in my pots.. a little bit too much hair growth and not as much "bulking up". Do you think I pushed the harvest date back on these ladies by feeding it too much nitrogen in late flower? Or maybe made them fluffy? Some of them are rock hard though, others the hairs just keep stretching out, no lie I thought I had spilled something on one of my buds and I went to wipe it off... It was coming out of the sugar leaf like sap off a maple tree, I think it's the molasses I've been feeding it
     

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  16. 14.5 is the actual trigger for most strains of Cannabis. 15 they veg at 14 they flower.
    I do both veg inside @24-0 most of the time under Fluorescents or veg outside with either a high power solar light or a CFL in a shop clamp on hood.
    We're not trying to make them grow outside after sundown just stay awake and that doesn't take much light at all.
    As long as the plant gets 15 hours or more of light per day it'll veg and veg and....
    While parts of the Greater So Cal LA-OC basin can get frost I haven't seen it here near the beach in years and that is the only thing that could limit your off season growing. Mine just go purple on some strains with the cooler temps. Some go mixed purple overlying green. All has about the same potency as summer grows.

    The 10 week cycle off season works for me as I can take clone cuts off the about to be set out veggers.
    3 weeks for me to get well rooted clones. That leaves me 7 weeks to get vegging done in.

    Yes and Yes but modified for my grow style and local conditions.
    BNW
     
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  17. I know a few that do 12/12 but 6 hours in to the dark cycle put light on for 1hr and that stops a plant from flowering as the flower hormone is depleted fast in light thus never has enough to trigger flower

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  18. So Cal water tends to high PH and my local city supply runs a steady 8.5 PH. Made the decision long ago it had to be on straight hose water for me to grow. Eventually all that high PH water started to show in the plants so I dropped the lime off the list when I mixed the next batch of soil and added Powdered Garden Sulfur @ 1 tablespoon per CF

    Dramatic change in appearance and smell. However that isn't a permanent fix and needs recharging as does my Chicken manure so I'll dig out the sites toss it all in a wheelbarrow add my amendments and stir. I'd have had to dig out most of the site anyhow to get my fully vegged plant in the ground site so the Sulfur dusting and Chicken Manure amend is just how it's got to be for my grow style.
    It's been the same soil for years now it's just till in most spots :) 3 sites and the 2 biggest SIPS are large enough and are true no till and get top dressing only.

    BNW
     
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