No-Till Gardening: Revisited

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by MountainOrganics, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. They add protein and yes youll find them like they were seeds.
     
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  2. No-till Ayahuasca Purple! —hope all is well. 3F42684D-C7A3-47A8-8B49-BF41FEE49F6E.jpeg
     
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  3. I’ve found Live lady bugs hiding in-between buds and the stem when I’m shucking the buds off the stalk and into the trim bin. I just tap them off into a house plant. And yes, would much rather have Lady Bugs than Spider Mites!
     
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  4. Do you know if you have the same problem with the green lacewing?


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  5. What’s the best way to keep them around?


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  6. Well they come as rice husks and eggs. So they hatch and they are larvae like a Caterpillar. They crawl up and start eating thier asses off

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  7. Both ladybugs and lacewings can survive on nectar/pollen. Planet Natural sells ladybug food if you're interested.
    Ladybugs often commit suicide by light and the charred remnants can end up in the buds. Personally I don't find them to be all that effective against spider mites. I prefer using beneficial mites and a smaller cousin to the lady bug known as "the spider mite destroyer".
    RD
     
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  8. I only grow outside atm but what I notice is the lacewings stick around in the general area but ladybugs don't.

    Lacewings have been recommended for budworm control, but I've read a research paper where two lacewings were caught on sticky trichome heads trying to attack a budworm. The budworm turned around and happily ate both of them. Seems our lacewing friends do better on leaf surfaces vs sticky resin covered buds....better stick to aphid hunting and leave BT and trichogramma for the budworms

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  9. These have worked good for me this year - got about 14 dead males and not one cattie egg on my flowers yet. Disrupting the mating cycle ftw - then BT for that first taste
    Tobacco Budworm Lure - Evergreen Growers Supply, LLC

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  10. Another subject I kinda of get hung up on is the companion planting. So if I wanted to use basil and some flowers for there pollen to feed the lady bugs I would just plant those directly into my 4x8 beds with my ladies or should it be in a separate pot in close proximity to the ladies?


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  11. im about two weeks into flower outdoors with MountainOrganics "new recipe!"

    1 part CSPM
    1 part Pumice
    1 part Malibu Compost

    Added 10 cups of biochar and 10 cups of rock dust for every cubic foot. Thats it! No other amendments!

    My plants seem to be looking great except the largest plant has just a few yellowed leaves and a few leaves that have rust all over them. I would say roughly 95% of the plant is a healthy lush green while the rest of the leaves are yellowed or look like theyre dying... but all these leaves are close to the base of the plant.

    I'm just wondering if this is completely normal in soil, especially maybe for my first cycle? Wondering when in soil, what cues are signs do you usually look for when determining the plant is not happy? I''m pretty sure the plant in question is happy i just want to know where the line gets drawn at basically? Coming from hydro if i see my leaves start to do this i instantly start to worry and try to figure out and fix right away. I understand soil can be different so i really don't want to take that approach and worry myself too much if i don't have to.

    here is a pic of the plant's base where you can see some of the yellowing anbd unhealthy leaves im talking about:
    [​IMG]

    and here is a pic of the entire plant (the one in the middle):
    [​IMG]

    so just to recap: the plant seems very healthy just has a few yellowed and rusted leaves near the base. Just wondering how common this is and at what point do i need to worry about these kinds of things?
     
  12. Dude, that's just badass. No amendments other than char and rock dust?! Wow!

    If you had used dry amendments in your mix you could have had a water only harvest. Plant on the left is beginning to fade a lil already. I'd topdress in some neem, kelp, and top them off with more compost too. Plenty of other options also.
    RD
     
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  13. You have to remember that Mountain Organics also uses his botanical tinctures in conjunction with his mix. If you are using water only in your own mix you could be lacking in some areas. I would take the excellent advice from @ElRanchoDeluxe in this situation.
     
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  14. That recipe is to be used with Mountain Organics botanical tonics that already contain sprouts, aloe, kelp, neem, chamomile, and a variety of other plants.. He also recommends using the citrus tonic, neem tonic and Ritha as supplements to the soil recipe either to be watered in or most economical when foliar sprayed... Each to be used weekly.
     
  15. I have to disagree here.
    MOFO's mix is meant to be used with simple applications of neem, malted barely and kelp. whether in tea form or topped dressed does not matter. The botanicals he uses and sells can be used in addition if desired but are by no means needed to grow successfully in no-till soil, as MOFO himself was doing well before he started selling those tinctures and tonics.
     
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  16. That is why I stated that the poster could have issues if he was water only. He does not mention that he is adding amendments. I should have clarified on this before I made a statement like I did.
     
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  17. The old mix was meant for top dressing, and the new mix is meant for tonics without topdressing according to both MOBT and Mountain Organics Instagram posts... I do agree to with you that it works best when used as supplement or in addition to some topdressing.... However I still stand that Ian (mofo) changed his soil recipe after coming out with the tonics.... And when using the tonics with the new mix he swears that no topdress is needed... You can use them as you like but if you follow all of his posts on Instagram and you read all of the comments below each post you will see the point I am making and that he is making... Over and out...
     
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  18. Google VPD in the grow room
     
  19. @ElRanchoDeluxe
    Hey
    My bloom cab is just 20 x 20 inches
    Trying to get the most outta a small space.
    I average 1- 1.4 grams per watt now.
    Thanks for the heads up on watering the edges first.
    Didn’t even think of that, and it has helped at watering times.
    Landscape fabric will not work in this instance.
    One of my reasons for wanting to use pondliner ( or rubber liner) is that I want it waterproofed so there will be no drainage. The whole bottom of the cab and 20 inches up will be lined.
    I am thinking of useing a hybrid form of Hugelkultur in the soil mix.
    This will make me be more attentive to watering as there will be less evaporation.
    So it should be easier to keep the soil moist.
    It will be hooked to blumats with a 3 gallon resivor.
    If I get a run away blumat, only 3 gallons of water max will go into the soil and the soil will easily hold that.
    Just wont have to water for a bit.
    One thing I do wonder is air exchange.
    With the air pot it has lots of air exchange but with the liner it will be limited.
    So I was thinking
    A) put a soaker hose in the bottom cover with the soil, and run airline to a air pump.
    Run the air pump for a few min every week
    Or
    B) insert into the soil a pvc pipe with holes in it.
    C) none of the above and let the watering do the air exchange.
    Sooo many choices!!
    This is still in planning stage as the cab rehab won’t happen for 4 more months or so
    Thanks!!!
    Pax
     
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