How would one go about getting their grains professionally malted? Sent from my LG-D851 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Not necessary in the slightest. If it floats your boat - have at it! Build it and they will come.....
@zpayne Tell her hello! I'm glad you folks enjoy the VRxPE as it's a wonderful hybrid. A friend did the actual pollination in a warmer climate than rainy, cold northwest Oregon where I live. You should find some excellent plants that would be worthy of keeping for you garden. The VR specifically is a Highland Thai from the 70s - very cerebral, spacey kind of high (vs. stoned). Good weed for hiking or whatever with your family. It can be pretty introspective. Definitely one of my favorites and in some ways better than TO. What you're seeing is what is often cited but seldom achieved which is hybrid vigor (heterosis or outbreeding enhancement). The VR has never been outcrossed as a way to 'improve' or alter its genetic expressions. It has been used in crosses like VR x PE, TO x VR, VR x Haze Northern Lights #5 from Nevil's 1988 The Seed Bank Catalog. Piker. Meaning that the straight VR would be a good candidate to use in a cross, but keep a solid number of 'VR only' seeds. That's what I did with this and several others that went bye-bye... AD
I never do nor do I recommend compost teas. That's just a disclaimer. Soil life is best left to propagate IN the soil where they actually live, not in a microbe jacuzzi - disco songs might help with repopulation though! I recommend not mixing all at once if for no other reason than to at least be able to observe responses from the separate applications. If one wants to do a once weekly "one and done" type watering then use common sense and cut ratios down so as not to over due it. There's no benefit to watering in a weaker feed every single watering in place of stronger feeds with giving plain water in between. Again, it's about whatever works for you and your situation and adjusting the 'parameters' accordingly. Nothing is set in stone.
MOFO 1. When you water a 20 gal as often as you suggest, what amount of liquid are you using per watering/feeding? It seems as though one could get root rot if they watered this often. 2. At the conclusion of harvest, you top dress with all your leaves and stems along with neem and mbp. Do you then allow the container to sit (moistened) for few weeks to allow the material to begin to break down before planting? Thanks in advance! O.F.
You buy them at a homebrew store. Tell them you want 'malted barley grain' - not liquid malt. Not powdered malt. You want the intact grain. Get a cheap coffee grinder and grind whatever you need to a powder. Sprinkle on top of your soil and water it into the soil HTH
Barley which hits the malting house is tested unlike any other commodity in our food system. Besides beer brewing, the health-food stores are loaded with products based on 'malt' or 'barley' or 'malted barley' - all different names for the same thing. Meaning that even if it isn't certified organic, it was grown organically. Otherwise the grower couldn't get a dime for it other than livestock feed or junk food. Beer brewers are as anal as it gets when it comes to the materials they use to produce the very same product over and over and over. It can't be different in any way or the customer will bolt and run.
Ag are you planning to use some of that malted corn in your no knead breads??? Sent from my XT1031 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
I hadn't thought of it but I certainly will give it a try! I do use fresh-ground malted barley, what bakers call diastatic malt (vs non-diastatic malt) and when you do it this way it helps to cut the amount in half because it's so powerful. Corn malt - interesting possibilities! Thanks!
subbed to spread the good word. All respect to the many OOGG's. Original Organic Ganja Gardeners. Many years of accumulated and shared knowledge. MOFO and AD and many others have been helpful to me and i've been using no-till techniques for a few years now. Thank you all. I have done SST's, but still have not done the malted barley grain yet. Maybe this week i will if i get a few extra dollars.
@EyeC They sell it by the pound at homebrew stores - about $1.20 and you only need a few ounces per plant. This is cheap, cheap, cheap.... HTH
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Good question! Fabric pots is THE way to go and makes the whole over/under watering deal much much more forgiving. A 20gal smart pot with a fully grown or at least established plant can take 3/4-1gal of water every other day and this is largely generalized as ones environment (temps and RH) play a huge factor in this, obviously this is based on my garden but other gardens I am involved with or have helped seem to be sticking with that same general amount. Young plants don't need as much water obviously because the roots haven't yet penetrated the full body of soil. A full watering when the soil is first placed in the container or at transplant, whatever the case is, and then it might only need a light watering or misting on the topsoil/mulch. Gauging watering needs in your garden will get easier with time and as your soil matures it also retains much more water and this will be noticed as you get through a few cycles. You can harvest a plant and then immediately transplant a new small rooted plant right into the container. I've transplanted the day of harvest, the day after, a week after, a couple weeks after - it makes absolutely no difference. Too easy right?
Another question I built my soil and have been turning it for almost a month now for my next grow. I didn't use gypsum instead I used oyster shell flower. Is there a reason I should use both? Sent from my LG-D851 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Nope! Unless it's logistics, you could always place your soil in your containers and plant a cover crop while you wait. A nice bed of clover or what have you...Just an idea.