the paneling is so much better than paint in my opinion , bonus is you can also clean it easier if you happen to have some mishap
Will be easy to wipe clean and dust with a coat of polyurethane I applied. I also knocked over a gallon of poly so the subfloor is now sealed too lol. can't wait to knock the room out and start the front porch next.
Loving the thread and a lot to learn. I've a question, do we need to dial down on the amendement for an indoor autoflower? And also Does this work for a 5 gal indoor grow. TIA Sent from my SM-S906E using Grasscity Forum mobile app
No, it is not necessary to run lower amendment amounts for indoor auto-flowers. Most of us running no-till pots run 10 gallons for our indoor auto-flowers. Larger soil mass is a necessity with no-till growing. You can run smaller pots. But, you will need to feed them with teas as the soil mass will likely run out of steam without their use.
I always use a plug of light seed starter where I place the seed with autos. Post 1 in the sticky thread in my sig will help clarify my statement (pics and all). I just recently tried using a pint of seed starter instead of usual 1/2 gallon and killed 4 out of 6 seedlings. Cheers Os
Hello all, I'm a very inexperienced grower (with a LOT of research under my belt) looking to start a new no-till project. I'll be growing three plants (autos) at a time in a 15 gallon fabric pot in a 1mx1mx2m tent under a 315w Cermaic Metal Halide lamp. I used the soil recipe recommended on page one of this thread for my last grow, my first complete cycle. I was growing 2 of Dutch passion's Auto Mazar (which my research at the time indicated was the highest yielding autoflowering strain), in 3 gallon fabric pots under 315w CMH. Towards the end I got lazy with my watering and the plant's fan leaves died off in mid to late flower (I thought the leaves were changing colour because the plant was finishing up, then they died on me). The plants stopped growing and the trichomes refused to change from milky to amber, no matter how long I waited or watered. Despite that, consistently high temps (poor ventilation) and no training whatsoever, I hit almost 1 gram per watt with my harvest, and got a lot of clean, low potency but good quality buds. I am pretty satisfied with the smoke, but I'm used to smoking schwag. After doing some more research, I am changing my soil mix for this run to: 1:1:1 Leaf mold:Compost:Biochar I am thinking of planting a cover crop this time too, maybe clover. And I want to buy some red wriggler worms to add to the pot this run What do you think of this?
If I were in your boat I’d check out @Organic sinse. Check out his thread in the ‘stickies’. Nobody does autos better.
I’ve never seen anyone use quite that much biochar in a mix. I don’t see a problem with it, but it might be quite pricey in the end. Total mix wise, 5-10% bio char would be plenty combined with roughly 25-30% perlite to make your aeration drainage total 1/3 of your mix. The higher percentage biochar you use, the more important it is to charge the biochar, especially if it’s 1/3 of you total mix. I do use leafmold and bio char in my mixes. I use like 5% bio char, and 20% leaf mold. I love leafmold! It so so soft and spongy! Cheers Os
now wait, this link is selling that it is better to use biochar at 30% over the other two? i read the link and first flag was the 7.5 to 8. ph level what are they growing, all the veggies i grow , grow best at 6.5. .i also quench mine and there isnt anyway to size the stuff for ideal at my poor man level, i dont think it is all that myself. not worth the time involved in making it and charging it. i do like how it breaks up clay though and my main reason for use ,but to say it retains moisture, i havent noticed it, but i give them that , i do live in a area that 4 to 5 months of the year are triple digits, so if the char is about a foot deep it does retain a little but above that nope. vermiculite is more cost effective for me, in my raised beds i get a huge sack for 30 bucks at the local soil and stone. in containers though , no way 30% char 10 % of all three would be more along the line i would go
No. The link is saying that biochar is a better amendment than the other two. I'm saying that biochar is sufficient for all the medium's aeration needs, hence the 30%. Add to that the fact that it can harbour more microbial life, and retains moisture better, and it's a no brainer for me.
I got some compost I am ready to use. How Would I go about getting rid of the bugs and their future offspring before i transplant my plants into it and bring it in the house Sent from my SM-S908U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
You want to make sure the compost is really done. That’s the trick to not bringing in pests you don’t want. What that means is there shouldn’t be any ‘greens’ that are still identifiable. The green bits are what will attract stuff like gnats. From a pest perspective, it’s ok if “browns” are still identifiable. Sometimes we use the term “curing” with regards to compost. Just letting it sit and “cure out” for a while is what most folks do. I always see rove beetles, worms, and other life in compost. The good guys are desirable, only worry about the bad ones. If you have compost that isn’t done, or needs some cure, and you are in a hurry. Turning it every day for a couple days usually helps. So if you need 10 gallons of compost, just put 10 gallons in a tote and turn it everyday. If it’s excessively wet, adding some of your aeration now, to the tote will help speed things along as well. It actually works really well. HTH Cheers Os
Thanks. I only seen a couple of black looking bugs in there about the size of a dime, more worried about gnats then anything. Will take your advice and run with it. Sent from my SM-S908U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
You should try some predatory mites to keep the FG at bay. Producer of beneficial insects for biological pest control