newbie needs help.....please

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by magestik63, Oct 22, 2010.

  1. my 11 day old plants leaves are starting to
    wrinkle and turn or twist. what would cause this

    i will have pictures shortly
     
  2. here are the pictures
     

    Attached Files:

  3. I've had this too man I wouldn't worry about it too much mine do the same thing especially my indicas.... I've heard it could be from wrong ph but I've never had any problems with it
     
  4. Yea, could be the PH of the soil.

    If you're using a PH tester make sure you're watering with 6.5 water, that's slightly more acidic than tap water. There's many threads on this forum about PH issues.

    While a slight PH shift won't destroy your plant, it could potentially cause a nutrient lockout, starving the plant of some of it's essential nutrients and causing more and more problems as it progresses.

    If you've been adding any fertilizer to the soil, stop.

    Flushing the plant with neutral (distilled) water will bring the PH back to 7.0 if it's high.

    Another common issue is overwatering, though that's not what it looks like to me.
     
  5. #5 magestik63, Oct 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2010
    no ferts i just started watering when the soil is dry

    its on 24hr 400w hps light and its about 75-82 deg inside room 40-50 rel humid
    its about 82 during day could it be heat stress light is about 24 inches away too close?
    i ordered a ph meter its a cheep one will it work good enough?

    thanks again
     
  6. Not all tap water is the same. Mine is 7.0 which causes issues if I don't lower it. Check your water. I keep mine around 6.0 and have no ph issues
     
  7. And how close are your lights? Also that looks like the Pre leaves where it just spits out the 2 leaves. Those aren't to important IMHO
     
  8. Hey buddy, first of all, i think the 400 W HPS is too powerful for the youngling... that might be part of the problem. My suggestion is - let it grow at least 1-2 weeks with something weaker like a CFL for instance. PH tester is good to have, i do great grows without it because i react to the plant from how it looks.Never had any problems, but yea its better to check and regulate your PH. Anyway, good luck bro !

    P.s. Oh, and how far is the little one from the light?
     
  9. However, i wouldn't worry about it too much unless it gets worse.. Ive seen much worse off plants that still do fine.
     
  10. here is a better picture
     

    Attached Files:

  11. #11 magestik63, Oct 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2010

    heres the set up

    2x4x7 closet
    400w hps light 24 inches from leaves
    24 hr lights on
    tap water
    water about every 4-5 days (when soil drys a inch or 2 deep)
    fow farms ocean farm soil 75 %
    perlite 25%
    will be using fox farms nutrients in about a week or so
     
  12. can i use the ph meter i bought to check the waters ph or is it only for soil?
    are strips more accurate?

    i let tap water sit for a day or 2 then use

    thinking about changing to distilled water, worth the cost?
     
  13. #13 GrapeStreet, Oct 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2010
    Distilled water is empty, no minerals at all. The plant, and us, actually get use from the some of the minerals. If you have "hard" water it could cause issues over time with salt and mineral buildup but I've never had this problem on city water.

    If you're looking to use distilled simply for the PH, you're better off buying some PH Up and PH Down (you can use Baking Soda for PH Up, personally I use lemons for PH down but caveat - the sugars can promote rot) to control the PH. Also, you can always distill your own water, distilled water is simply the vapor from boiling water collected and condensed, nothing fancy.

    I only use distilled water to store my PH meter in so it always calibrates to 7.0 before I use it.


    --
    A cheap PH tester will give you a range, but rarely an exact number. The $5-15 "probe" ph meters will test soil, but are not very accurate. A $40-60 PH Pen will read to the tenth of a point and have so far been accurate as long as they're kept clean and stored in 7.0 water.

    For testing soil with a water PH test, you can first water the plant, give it a minute to take up as much water as it can, then pour a little more water through and collect this second runoff. This will be a pretty accurate reading of your PH, but is affected by the PH of the water you put in, so test the water before and after it goes through the pot.

    If you water with 7.0 and it comes out at 5.3 your soil's very acidic as it pushed the water down almost 2 points. Simultaneously, you would have just slightly raised the PH by running the 7.0 water through.

    Testing runoff isn't 100% accurate.

    The best way to control the PH of the soil is to follow a fertilizer schedule and PH test and correct your water BEFORE you pour it on the plants. If you're always watering with 6.5 water (whether it has nutes in it or not), your pot should maintain 6.5.

    In severe cases, "flushing" with PH corrected water will also balance the pot, but strip nutrients from the soil.
    --
    The leaves that Brak is talking about are called "cotyldon" leaves, as there's two, the plant's considered a "dicot" versus say a grass, that's monocot. Yes, these will eventually die off on their own. Part of life.

    Just FYI.

    --
    I wouldn't worry about using a HID at 2' from the plant. Obviously the plant is more sensitive when it's young, but if you're managing the heat well, you generally can't give the plant too much light with an indoor grow (most times, light bleaching can happen and is not unheard of). Not saying you should move the light down to 6" keep the distance, give it some room to breath. But you should do alright with the HPS.
     
  14. im waiting to start my nuts program until i get my ph meter

    so will the ff nuts, "big grow" , "big bloom", "tiger bloom", schedule they have online keep the ph level correct or is that totally different?
     
  15. I've noticed acidic swings quicker with the Tiger Bloom than anything else. Big Bloom can be added whenever, it's a very weak fertilizer, healthier to the soil than the plants. Generally don't go above the recommended ammount, usually I'll cut under a bit (4 instead of 5 tsp/5gal) and fertilize less than they say to, but I am scared of burning my plants (an earlier harvest was almost destroyed by a severe PH shift, 5.3). Less is always safer than more.

    The PH will change, it does that naturally. You want to just make sure that whatever you water with has the target PH, then any swings your soil is feeling will be wrangled back to your target. If it's too high, the feed water will lower it, too low and it will raise it.

    Most commonly I've found that fertilizing acidifies the soil over time. Tap watering base-ifys over time.

    I'm not the expert at fertilizing. I've had plenty of issues with it, so I'd check other threads regarding the FoxFarm toolkit.
     

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