New Quantum board qb96 V2's are out from HLG. Cob replacement fixture-Replacement Thread **BS here**

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Or_Gro, Oct 12, 2018.

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  1. I got the sticky thermal pad
    You are starting to freak me out[​IMG]


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  2. There's a b-type driver that you add a pot onto, like normal people!
     
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  3. #823 trojangrower, Oct 23, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
    DSCF2108.JPG
    I should try sleeping that way.

    *edit... that's 6/2 if u missed it.
     
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  4. I haven’t seen a need to dim yet. Just raise a couple inches if too intense.
     
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  5. Conscious decision here to go with A and not B. If driver positioned well, A is much more adjustable (Vo,Io), rather than potentiometer (Io).

    Consider repositioning driver so it is more accessible.
     
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  6. How many watts are you running them at?
     
  7. I got both, and want to make sure anyone else who does knows wtf to do...
     
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  8. 2100ma driver x 24 volts = 50-51 watts per board if using ohms law. I’m using the Meanwell HLG-240H-2100a driver per 4 boards. There’s 240 watts available, but according to qb120 specs, only 50-51 watts drawn at 2100ma

    I ordered an in-line volt/watt meter to check for sure.
     
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  9. 'B-type'
    DSCF2022.JPG
    which, if wired that correctly, will turn the light back on at the lowest setting after a power failure (kinda good).


    oh ...
    You know how I said I sold my wife's blurple yesterday (s0 calous)... well I built her this overnight.
    I turned down the V and I all the way ... but that's as dim as they get... with the B-type I can bring them way lower...
    DSCF2109.JPG DSCF2110.JPG DSCF2111.JPG

    No, I haven't upgraded to the elite board until I sell another light kit... my personal promise.
     
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  10. Good hub..,
     
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  11. #831 Tbone Shuffle, Oct 23, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
    That makes sense. No wonder the current handling capability is so different. They threw me off calling them v2 boards. I only got the soft pads. Mine are white. I bored a small hole with a small screw driver. They squeeze and smash down. They push out the sides a little when you tighten down the board. I had to pick them up and work them around a little to get the bubbles out when I placed it on the heatsink.

    I don't know if you saw in my other thread but I ended up using 120v 3 prong cords for all my splices on the driver output. It's just easy. Don't plug them directly into the wall though.. hehe. IMG_1093.JPG IMG_1094.JPG
     
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  12. Queue Hunter with several fire gifs hahahaha
     
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    • Funny Funny x 1
  13. I would say the elite board is only an upgrade in some ways over the q288v2. The 288 is a higher efficiency level but you can't push it as hard. The 96 will run double the current or more. I think the real advantage of the 96 is being able to cover larger areas since you can push more power through them.

    We should be seeing the first buds from them in a couple of months. I have a plant that's 3 weeks in flower I keep meaning to figure out how to hang them in there. I should just do it. It will get about 6 weeks under them.
     
  14. The voltage isn't right on 24 I'm pretty sure. It's a constant current driver. The voltage doesn't necessarily settle right at 24v a board. I've seen quite a few 4 board qb120 fixtures on 2100a's some hooked to meters. They typically draw about 250-255 watts at the wall. That says they're being driven probably at a higher voltage in order to draw that much watts.
     
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  15. 253 watts I believe is the wall draw but the qb120’s only operate at about 50 watts with 2100ma according to the spec sheet. That’s what I ordered the watt meter to put after the driver output to see what I’m actually putting out.

    They would have to running over 28 volts to get to 240 watts @ 2100ma
     
  16. #836 Or_Gro, Oct 23, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
    Lookin good man!

    Yep, on the rubbery pads, i started with the plastic still on, pulled off plastic on bd side, and pressed on back of bd, put the combo in my drillpress, and drilled thru pad, removed plastic on sink side, inserted screws, and screwed them in...easy peasy...

    You can see from my pics in S2C’s ‘don’t fugging post bs” 96 data thread, that i’m using 18ga solid core wires with (stoner-proof) disconnect setup on the output side of driver, for plug-n-play & mix-n-match flexibility - easy to swap out driver or light, and to change length of output wire, depending on where i want to place lights and driver.

    Once i get thru mapping, i’ll prob get diff drivers for whatever layout i decide is best for my setup. Prob add one of hunter’s output meters on each set of output leads, too....will use a kill-a-watt during testing...

    Thanks for pointing these bds out, and for all your help. Hope they work out well for you!
     
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  17. I got the A and added external dimmer and display


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  18. So I was reading about that
    [​IMG]
    This says every two hours?


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  19. I dim it for my [​IMG]


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  20. I know I got nothing else
    Even the extra pad they sent in envelope -0 cb
    Just a hlg sticker


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