You know bro... I'm building my own lights... I have ordered some 680, 690 and 700 nm 5052 diodes and they are on the way. If they test out right, I might just ask R2T or Feidjudong(?) to whip me up 100 or so boards along with 90CRI LM301bs. Maybe I will just solder my own even, I can pretend to be Asian for a day.
Russell would be a better choice than Feidaming. Not that I've visited them on site but Im sure R2T has better English so you won't need to pretend to be Chinese lol I look forward to your test results and for you to allow me to buy from your manufacturer when the time comes (shipping reasons). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey @Tbone Shuffle, is your fixture grounded (either by attached driver, or some other way)? @Frank Cannon made a good point on riu about grounding the frames. I know didley about electrical shit, and want to minimize safety risks. Anyone, what is a simple way to ground the frame when drivers are remote? Explain in baby words with pics, assume you are teaching a moron....
Attach a wire from the frame to a ground in the plug. Here is an example, sorry I ran out of double As for my camera and am using an older picture. here is a closeup, I circled where the ground wire attaches to the frame (ok, I just wrapped it). Its 3-16 wire, typical house wire, cheap. The ground has nothing to do with the driver and goes directly to the plug (see full picture thumbnailed). The (+) and (-) leads go to the driver. By being on the metal shelf, the driver is itself grounded too.
You can ground the frame if you want. All you really have to do is run an extra wire from your frame to the case of the driver providing you used a ground wire on the input of the driver. If you're running low voltage like 36 volts dc in parallel on the output that can barely overcome the resistance of your skin. That's why you can walk out and put your hands on the terminals of your car battery. Higher DC voltages in series ran lights can shock you.
The danger of an ungrounded frame is if a live wire touches it, the frame could be live and you would never know it until it shocks you. If the frame is grounded and a live wire touches it the circuit will short and blow an overcurrent trip .
All good, i just ordered regular drivers. Might be useful in the future in a warehouse grow though...
Every device with a 120v ac 3 prong wall plug in your grow area that has a metal case will also be attached to the same ground circuit in your house that eventually goes to a ground rod that was driven into the ground and attached to your homes plumbing when the house was built. You could also attach the frame of your light to anything else in the grow room that's grounded like the case of your exhaust fan. Just attach a wire to any screw on the outside of the case and make sure it's in contact with bare metal at least a little.
I wouldn't get too paranoid. As long as you're not so sloppy that you leave a live wire stripped so wild that it touches your frame... HLG's fixtures are grounded by putting the driver on the heatsink since the case of the driver is grounded.
@Frank Cannon, thanks for your question, cuz it again points out how fucking good these lights are, particularly in this configuration. So, for four 96s, in a 4x4, at 120 Watts (at wall) per 96: 24” is the transition height from veg to flower (600ppfd). This is the mapping; [At 12:12, i’d switch to 18” and up wattage to 200-240 (check mapping at 18”)] 36” w/ all four 96s running, coverage is an even 500ppfd. Shutting off one light at 36”, gives even 400 ppfd coverage. Shutting off a second light, diagonal to the other off light, gives an even 300ppfd, considered the transition point from propagation to veg. This is so sweet, you don’t even need to move a light in the fixture/frame.
And why does a constant voltage driver have a voltage adjustment in the back? I tried adjusting it and cranked it down, all it affected was the amperage. I will have to return it for a new one I suppose.
That's what I thought. I think there's a slight adjustment, but I couldn't tell you... as the meter is wacked. I contacted the seller and showed him a picture. We'll see what he says. There's two adjustment screws in the back of A-type drivers. I'm not going to use those anymore. btw, Tbone and I been reviewing dimming multiple V2-96s. He pointed out that dimming 4x drivers requires a 25K ohm potentiometer...but you know that already, right?
That’s an “A”, should be able to adj v and a: https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/ELG-240/ELG-240-SPEC.PDF Says its both constant current and constant voltage driver, so should have a way to adjust both...