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Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by justmeds, Feb 9, 2014.

  1. Hi everyone. I would like to go over the plans in my head and possibly set up my friend with a grow room. Hypothetically, I could build a light fixture consisting of a 2 x 2 piece of pegboard holding six vertically mounted 55 watt CFL bulbs with flood type reflectors and one horizontally mounted 200 watt actual vegetation or flowering light with wing style reflector. I could then, using the peg board holes as pre drilled vents, cover the top of this fixture with a 2 x 2 cover from the top of a tub (like those used in a bubble grow except upside down) as a venturi and add a 107 cfm fan connected to a 4" dryer duct to vent the heat out of the entire 2.5 x 2.5 x 8 foot cabinet which was previously painted bright flat white. I could then add a two site 10 gallon bubbler tub to this along with 10" net pots and some awesome genetics and would I or would I not have a great 2 site harvest providing all the other variables fell to my favor as well? And if not ...WHY?
     
  2. At only 2.5 get wide the plants would be too close to the side lights so they couldn't bush out. 1 plant may work in that limited space. Can you go wider? Then you would only have to rotate the plans a half turn every day.
     
  3.  
    This is a good point but using CFL bulbs short of the plant actually making contact with the bulb you dont really have to worry about burning. Just do some trimming and Training ( LST ) to keep the sides away from the side bulbs. or u can take them out when the plant over grows them. 
     
    One thing i noticed is you cabinet is 8 feet tall? and your using CFL why? If i had that kinda celing in my box i would be throwing 600-1000 watt HPS in there and pulling Half pound or so of AAA if you can run the hydro set up (BTW i would go Areoponics over bubbler) Much easier to maintain in my personal opinion. 
     
  4. I guess I wasn't specific enough lights are all mounted on the peg board. All lights ate same in depth from tip to base the 200 watt will be mounted horizontally because it is as wide as the others are long. So we're talking a light box 2' x 2' x 12" , with 2.5' x 2.5' walls and the eight feet high comes in because the top of the tub is 2 feet off the ground for ease of drainage, and the light box would be 1 foot tall as well . Leaving adequate room above to put all ducting and wires would give an actual grow area of 2.5 x 2.5 x 5 . I love Math. No not Meth MATH

    Sent from my XT907 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  5. This is what I got out of my head
     

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  6. And the top looks like this
     

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  7. #7 hemptation420, Feb 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 10, 2014
    Like the layout and the idea is awesome..would def work on a smaller scale grow. But I did the CFL grow thinking it was cheaper to build / run. 
     
    But with CFL you get light fluffy buds no density as the light cannot penetrate the buds themselves to stimulate growth also the density of leaves cause more problems. I was using 4 x 150 actual wattage bulbs (which imitated 300 watt bulbs) and i was growing 1 plant in scrog and it wasnt even close to enough light,  it was actually costing more then just running my 400 watt HPS which has more then doubled my yield.
     
    The initial cost is lower in CFL (e.g. 20$ for 10 50 watt bulbs and 25$ for the 200 watt bulb) vs. say 170-250 for reflector / tube ballast and bulb, But the product at the end and cost of growing is what it all comes down to. With my CFL set up i was barley getting an ounce a plant and was growing 4 plants at a time. Now i rock 1 plant and pull at lest a QP each shot.
     
    Just my opinion, not saying its wrong to use cfl, im just saying i tried the CFL in a grow the size your thinking of and it wasnt nearly what i was hoping and the cost to run the grow (e.g hydro bill, time spent, cost soil nutes etc.) was barley worth the pull.
     
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