I am the original poster of this thread. Update: I finally decided mine were just purpling after all. I am in the drying/curing/manicuring phase now but I’m a little disappointed in the quality of the buds. I’m afraid maybe I harvested too early. I used a 50x magnification loop and went by the trichromes. No clear heads, 50/50 white to amber heads. But the buds aren’t quite right. I do know one mistake I made was, not pruning of the small low branches that grow out of the main stalk. I should have realized they would not develop into much & that all they really do is take nutrients away from the bigger buds and healthier parts of the plant. Maybe I didn’t feed them enough. Idk I feel like the buds don’t have the density they should or the fullness of really good buds. I also read that it could be that they didn’t get enough sunlight but they really did get a good amount of light. Smells great, tons of crystals, really sticky but the buds are just kinda ugly ☹️ I wanted to ask the experts if they can tell what might be wrong. I know they aren’t the best pics Note: I do realize that it’s not manicured really well yet. Even if it were though, the buds just aren’t as pretty as I would have liked.
They weren't just purpling. They didn't get full blown infection, but it still fucked up the end product. The only thing you can do next year is start spraying your whole area with pesticide that will kill Leafhoppers, and Mites. Leafhoppers are the main culprit that carries the bacteria. The also get infected by American Elm trees. Get rid of all weeds, leaves, stay away from elm trees, treat the crap out of the area. Leafhoppers don’t have many natural enemies and controlling infestations with chemical or synthetic pesticides is a common practice. Many pesticides are commercially available to the home gardener. Look for those containing malathion, diazinon and cabaryl. Synthetic and chemical pesticides are highly toxic to pests, beneficial insects, and to people and other mammals. They should be used in moderation and only when infestations can’t be managed through more environmentally friendly measures. Always follow label directions and avoid applying chemical pesticides when beneficial insects, such as bees, are present. Sprays are preferred to dusts for bee safety. Botanical Insecticides Naturally occurring toxins extracted from plants to use as pesticides are called “botanical” insecticides. Botanical pesticides work quickly, break down quickly, and target plant-eaters, posing little danger to beneficial insects, people or mammals. They must be reapplied frequently and can be hard to find at your local garden center. Botanical insecticides containing capsaicin -- the ingredient that makes chili peppers hot -- work to repel, not kill, leafhoppers. Insecticides containing pyrethrum, extracted from daisies, can paralyze pests but doesn’t kill them. Soaps and Oils All pesticides are toxic, but some are less toxic than others and experts recommend opting for environmentally friendly pesticides that are still effective against leafhoppers, whenever possible. Soaps and oils are generally harmless to people and other mammals and are effective against several kinds of pests in addition to leafhoppers. They work on contact by causing insects to dehydrate. Oils and soaps must be applied to all plant surfaces and reapplied frequently. They are readily available in garden centers nationwide under several product names. Seed Treatments In 2003, researchers at the University of Minnesota reported that seeds treated with pesticides show positive results in controlling leafhopper invasions. Products containing neonicotinoids offer two levels of protection, killing insects living in soil, preventing them from attacking roots, and providing systemic protection through the plant itself. Seed treatments are primarily used in agricultural applications. But what you had, wasnt normal purpling. Flowers That Keep Away Bugs Marigold. These popular insect-repelling flowers are hardy and bright with large, full blooms. Ageratum. Ageratum produces many small flowers that appear almost fuzzy. Nasturtium. Nasturtiums are useful companion plants in vegetable gardens and around fruit trees. 16 plants that repel unwanted insects | MNN - Mother ... https://www.mnn.com/.../stories/12-plants-that-repel-unwanted-insects
Thanks very much for the help. I so wish you had seen my post originally. I hadn’t even seen that others had found my post and had the same problem, I got very few responses initially. Obviously I know everyone was trying to help though and that’s all we can do is try our best. I have the worst luck. This is my third try and something always goes wrong (1st-stolen,2nd-brush hogged down a couple weeks after the start of flowering, 3rd-Leaf hopping A-holes!). I had a lot of leaf hoppers but I was told they were harmless so I didn’t pay much attention to them. I really thought it had to be something bad and not purpling. No one was telling me what it could be, so I went with the majority. Oh well, every time I have learned a lot. Ig at first you don’t succeed... I’m definitely not done
Don't feel so bad, my buddy has had 40% of his plants get this for the last 5-6 years. ( 2000+ ) He and I did some last year, and it was a waste of some really hard/impossible (for me ) to get seeds again. $100+ a pack, and more than 20 packs. Many packs were $150. Dominion Seed Company Granny Skunk for 1. Inside they are fire. My neck of the woods, and its a crap shoot. Only way to possibly avoid it ( nothings 100% In life ) is to not have any trees, especially American elm. Clear away all weeds, brush ect Treat the soil, and everything around it with something that will kill leafhoppers. Get 2-4 different chemicals, and rotate them. Treat the seedlings ect. There are different kinds of Phytoplasmas, and can infect more than 1 type of plant. In USA the main transmitter is the American elm, and is found in the root system. Leafhopper are easily infected with this Bacteria, and when they bite your plants, your plants get infected get infected. Sometimes like you see on yours, they can somewhat come out of it, but the terpenes ect, and totally compromised, and is only a shadow of its potential. Phytoplasma disease was forst observed by 2 Japanese Botanists in Iran, in 1967, and then was found in India in cannabis sativa ie Hemp Phytoplasma - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics Symptoms Of Phytoplasma: What To Do About Phytoplasma ... https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/... Detection of Maize Bushy Stunt Phytoplasma in Leafhoppers ... Florida Entomologist... Jump to search Phytoplasma Phyllody induced by phytoplasma infection on a coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) Scientific classification Domain: Bacteria Phylum: Tenericutes Class: Mollicutes Order: Acholeplasmatales Family: Acholeplasmataceae Genus: Candidatus Phytoplasma Species Ca. Phytoplasma allocasuarinae Marcone et al., 2004[1] Ca. Phytoplasma americanum Lee et al., 2006 Ca. Phytoplasma asteris Lee et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma aurantifolia Zreik et al., 1995 Ca. Phytoplasma australiense Davis et al., 1997 Ca. Phytoplasma australesia White et al., 1998 (Invalid name) Ca. Phytoplasma balanitae Win et al., 2012 Ca. Phytoplasma brasiliense Montano et al., 2001 Ca. Phytoplasma caricae Arocha et al., 2005 Ca. Phytoplasma castaneae Jung et al., 2002 Ca. Phytoplasma cirsii Safarova et al., 2016 Ca. Phytoplasma cocosnigeriae IRPCM, 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma cocostanzaniae IRPCM, 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma convolvuli Martini et al., 2012 Ca. Phytoplasma costaricanum Lee et al., 2001 Ca. Phytoplasma cynodontis Marcone et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma fragariae Valiunas et al., 2006 Ca. Phytoplasma fraxini Griffiths et al., 1999 Ca. Phytoplasma graminis Arocha et al., 2005 Ca. Phytoplasma hispanicum Davis et al., 2016 Ca. Phytoplasma japonicum Sawayanagi et al., 1999 Ca. Phytoplasma luffae Davis et al., 2017 Ca. Phytoplasma lycopersici Arocha et al., 2007 Ca. Phytoplasma malasianum Nejat et al., 2012 Ca. Phytoplasma mali Seemüller et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma meliae Fernandez et al., 2016 Ca. Phytoplasma noviguineense Miyazaki et al., 2017 Ca. Phytoplasma omanense Saddy et al., 2008 Ca. Phytoplasma oryzae Jung et al., 2003 Ca. Phytoplasma palmicola Harrison et al, 2014 Ca. Phytoplasma phoenicium Verdin et al., 2003 Ca. Phytoplasma pini Schneider et al., 2005 Ca. Phytoplasma pruni Davis et al., 2013 Ca. Phytoplasma prunorum Seemüller et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma pyri Seemüller et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma rhamni Marcone et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma rubi Franova et al. 2016. Ca. Phytoplasma solani Qualino et al., 2013 Ca. Phytoplasma spartii Marcone et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma sudamericanum Davis et al., 2012 Ca. Phytoplasma tamaricis Zhao et al., 2009 Ca. Phytoplasma trifolii Hikuri et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma ulmi Lee et al., 2004 Ca. Phytoplasma vitis Marzorati et al. 2006 Ca. Phytoplasma wodyetiae Narderali et al., 2017 Ca. Phytoplasma ziziphi Jung et al., 2003 Phytoplasmas are obligate bacterial parasites of plant phloem tissue and of the insect vectors that are involved in their plant-to-plant transmission. Phytoplasmas were discovered in 1967 by Japanese scientists who termed them mycoplasma-like organisms.[2] Since their discovery, phytoplasmas have resisted all attempts at in vitro culture in any cell-free medium; routine cultivation in an artificial medium thus remains a major challenge. Although phytoplasmas have recently been reported to be grown in a specific artificial medium, experimental repetition has yet to be reported.[3] Phytoplasmas are characterized by the lack of a cell wall, a pleiomorphic or filamentous shape, a diameter normally less than 1 μm, and a very small genome. Phytoplasmas are pathogens of agriculturally important plants, including coconut, sugarcane, and sandalwood, in which they cause a wide variety of symptoms ranging from mild yellowing to death. Phytoplasmas are most prevalent in tropical and subtropical regions. They are transmitted from plant to plant by vectors (normally sap-sucking insects such as leafhoppers) in which they both survive and replicate. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/phytoplasma