New growth is lookin wierd..

Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by Mikeee420, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. Hey blades. Have 3 plants that are just over 3 weeks old from seed.  Things were goin great but the new growth is looking a little shriveled and leaves are taco'd. Growth has been a little slow but they were just transplanted so I'm thinking that might have something to do with that. Anyways, I filled this info out to make it easier if anyone could toss their 2 cents in. I keep a decent log so hopefully that'll help. Pics too.
     
    Thanks for your time
     
    What type of medium; soil or hydro?
    Coco+Perlite 3:1
    What brand and type of soil?
    Cyco Coco Pearl (Coco coir+about 25% perlite)
    Indoors or outdoors?
    Indoor
    What strain?
    303 Seeds: Bio-chem
    How old are the plants?
    3 weeks and 2 days from seed 
    What type of lights and how many watts?
    154 watts of 6500k CFLs
    How far from the lights?
    3-4"
    What is your watering frequency and source of water?
    Has been every other day until  2 days ago, Thursday (1/23), when I transplanted from solo cups to 3 gallon smartpots. Haven't watered since directly after the transplant.  ALWAYS distilled water
    What, how much and when was it fed? NPK?
    Fed every watering, always 1 cup each plant. Nutes are Botanicare PBP Grow, GO CaMg+, and NFTG pH up which is Calcium based. PPMS and pH of last 3 feedings are as follows:
    1/19: 122ppm CaMg, 251ppm PBP Grow::::373ppm total, 6.1pH
    1/21: 150ppm CaMg, 255ppm PBP Grow::::430ppm total; 5.7pH
    1/23: 215ppm CaMg, 380ppm PBP Grow::::595ppm total; 6.0pH  
    Haven't watered since the transplant.
    What is the medium/runoff pH and PPM if in hydro?
    Runoff from each plant is as follows:
    1/19: ====plant1-406ppm, 6.4pH ====plant2-443ppm, 6.5pH====plant3-406ppm, 6.6pH
    1/21: ====plant1-409ppm, 6.6pH ====plant2-440ppm, 6.7pH====plant3-380ppm, 6.7pH
    1/23: Didn't measure runoff after the transplant. It's prebuffered to 5.5-6.5 so it shouldn't stray too much.
    What are the temps and humidity in the room?
    70-77f,30-45% humidity
    What size pots?
    Red solo cups up until 1/23 when I transplanted to 3 gallon smart pots
    Any bugs? Look real close.
    Nope
    Any other pertinent info?
    Noticed growth has been slow, and the leaves are starting to taco. 

     

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  2. I feel like they may be getting fed to often or to much. If you feed them every other day have you tried maybe a tablespoon of fertilizer?
     
  3. Well my most recent feeding was my strongest and it was barely over a TEAspoon so your suggestion of a tablespoon would be a good bit more nutrients than what I'm currently giving
     
  4. They look ok considering you just transplanted them. That medium looks really dry, did you give them a good watering after transplantin? All that new medium will draw moisture away from the root zone until it's even throughout if that makes sense. I always give my small plants in big pots more drink then they need to make sure that the medium is nice and wet through, dry pockets kill roots quick smart. With a good draining mix in decent sized pots you can't overwater so don't stress about pouring a couple of litres on them, you'll be surprised how much will be needed to achieve run off.Sent from my C6903 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  5. Well I think its a mag deficiciency... Which I think could have been caused by the extra calcium my Calcium based pH up(NFTG Olympus Up) adds, causing mag to be locked out. Im gonna try leaving my nute solution at it's normal pH(around 5.2 or 5.3 after the PBPGrow and CaMg+) and not add the pH up for a bit and see if that equilizes stuff.. 
     
    Is adding CaMg for a mag def and not a cal work out alright, Or is the cal just gonna keep locking out the mag?
     
    Loving the growth rate of coco just still need to work out it's differences in calmag dosage it seems
     
  6. Mate I couldn't even tell you the pH of the water I use let alone after nutes are added or the pH of the coco in my pots. And I only just recently got a calmg additive just because, adding it at 1/4 strength just as a backup. And Im growing some sweet smelling, dense, frosty buds. I think people get carried away to much with pH. What sort of water are you using, because most water is around 7 so it seems weird you add pH up not down? From what I've read if the pH is to or low it stops the plant from being able to absorb certain nutrients as well. Good table of it in Growers Bible (Green).Sent from my C6903 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     

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  7. Nice pic, that one cola looks massive. And I use distilled water but once I add in my nutes its consistently 5.2 or 5.3 so I add the pH up to take it to 5.8-6.0. I'm familiar with the nutrient charts and I dont think I have a pH problem but what I've heard is if you have too much of one nutrient(calcium in my case) that it can lock out others(mag lockout here.. i think). Hence why Im gonna try and cut the pH up since it has cal... HOPEFULLY balance it out lol. THey dont look too bad yet, but I'd like to get the deficiency in check before it escalates to a worse problem
     
    Thanks for stopping by 
     
  8. Yeah ok sounds like you've got is sussed. I use rain water I catch off my shed roof, but yeah no idea what the pH is. Those buds hanging was one plant, the mother I took the original clones off. The pics in my thread are of the 3rd generation and still going strong. That big main cola was so good, weighed 105g off the plant, dried to just over an ounce, really nice and dense :)Sent from my C6903 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     

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  9. #9 youngdude, Jan 30, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 30, 2014
    How long do you wait to test pH and EC after mixing your solution?
     
    1. I've found with most fertilizers the pH and EC/PPM continue to rise even 5 minutes after the original mixing of a feeding solution, this is especially the case with some pH-up products(which have an immediate impact on pH, but given time and temperature adjusting the pH can continue to rise). I try to allow 30 minutes to an hour of resting time for all chemicals/elements/minerals to appropriately mix and dissolve.  I usually see a change in my plants about three days after changing feeding solution. 
     
     
    2. It appears you are using smart pots, sometimes if you are not getting a thorough enough run-through during watering the EC and pH will rise in the medium(salt build up). If you notice your run-off has a higher pH than your starting solution, and also that your run off pH is increasing every time you water. To me, this could be an indicator that you may need to increase run off amount. 
    If this is a problem, it can be corrected by watering with plain water until pH and EC in run-off are within normal range, and then continuing feeding with fertilizer with an ideal runoff rate.
     
    3. When transplanting I wet my new medium before and after the plant is in the new environment. It is important to give any plant the nutrients and moisture it needs after a transplant. The most vulnerable time for a plant is in it's young life, and any age after it has been transplanted.
     
    4. If you would like to increase growth rate, once all of your other problems/concerns are addressed I would recommend a temperature of around 80 and a humidity at 45-50.
     
    In all reality, the plant doesn't look that bad, this is just all the advice and tips I have pertaining to your situation. Best of luck, the best gardeners are always learning and experimenting.
     
  10. Thought I'd post an update.. so today was day 1 of 12/12. Fan leaves are increasingly showing a mag deficiency I think. I'm currently giving them 350-400ppm of CaMG right now... seems like way too much. My runoff ppms are 200-400 ppms LOWER than what Im feeding.. They're growing fine but definitely not at optimal speed and health.  I think I'm locking out mag by having too much Cal. Considering stopping the CaMG use and see what happens.. if things get better than my ratios were off. EH... I hear chemdawgs are calmag whores though 
     

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