Thanks in advance for any help. I'm a new grower and started to notice some discoloration and drying out of my leaf tips. Here are the details on my end: 4x4x8 indoor tent HLG550 LED light FFOF soil (used in solo cups and 7gal fabric pots) AC infinity 6" inline fan for exhaust carbon filter Temp Range - 72-80 Humidity Range - 55-65 GH Bio Thrive Grow + CalMag given every other watering (PH'd between 6.0-6.8 before feeding) CalMag given every watering ((PH'd between 6.0-6.8 before feeding) I'm a couple weeks away from switching to flower (waiting to fill the scrog net) and I'm starting to notice an increase in discoloration and drying at my leaf tips. At first it only looked like it affected that large fan leaves at the bottom of the plant so I figured they were near the end of their life cycle and would prune them as necessary. I then started to notice that it was happening closer to the new growth which is causing me concern. I skipped nutes on the last watering and only watered with PH'd water (no CalMag added either), and watered to a good amount of run off. My lady in the back right started to blow up while the other three didn't really seem to show new growth. However, all of my ladies are experiencing the same issue as shown in the pictures. They are due to be watered again today (due to lift test) and I'm wondering if I should water them again with just PH'd water, PH'd water and CalMag, or PH'd water, nutes and CalMag. Again, being so close to switching to flower, I just want to check with everyone to see if they have some feedback because I would obviously want to move into flowering with the healthiest plants possible. Thanks!
Thanks for the reply! I didn't rule that out but the light is 36" above canopy (manufactures recommendations) and my lux meter is reading 35k which from my research is a good light range to be in. I can't confirm 100% but I think this issue started with the larger fan leaves closer to the bottoms of the plants. Would light stress shows signs closer to the bottom of the plant first?
I'm running the same set up as you,except 6 ft tent. My question is if you are using tap water. If you are my guess would be possibly too much cal/mag. If you are adding cal/mag every watering on top of tap water you might be starting to lock out. A flush might be needed. I'm only 1 person, and not an expert at all, but that would be my call.
I’m actually running rain water from an outside collection unit. I started with distilled water but when I switched my girls absolutely loved it. Plus it’s free! I’m going to water her for the next couple weeks with just PH’d water and she how they respond. Overall, they are still growing and for the most part look healthy. Good luck on your grow BTW!
Ok what kinda water and do u use cal mag? Oh what medium Sent from my SM-N960U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
I'm so glad I dont get that! Nectar for the gods= no deficiency Sent from my SM-N960U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Papa - Thank you for the information, I really appreciate it. The only thing that is throwing me off is that the plant that is the most heavily affected is actually the one growing the fastest. From what I've researched, Calcium deficiency and toxicity exhibit similar symptoms so I want to be sure before I add more CalMag to a plant that might already have high levels. I started my nutrient regiment 4 weeks after germination as I was told FFOF was hot soil and you didn't need to add nutrients until about 4 weeks into veg. Once I started on the nute regiment the plants got CalMag with each feeding as well as each regular watering in between. All 4 plants have been on the same nutrient and feeding schedule and with only one being heavily affected I'm reluctant to jump to a deficiency. But again, I'm new to this and just tying to be cautious. I'm attaching two photos taken early this morning. *Also, thank you again for sharing your knowledge with me. It's truly appreciated*
that is classic salt damage. high EC . THE ec level should of 4he medium should not be more than 50% higher than input solution. water some solution through until it drains out bottom and test it .it will probably read very high . flush 1/2 STregnth solution through at a rate of 1.5 to 2 x pot volume. so 1.5 to 2 gallon for every gallon medium. every watering should be 15% overflow to keep salt levels down. classic salt damage manifests as DEFICIENCIES ad the individual minerals are locked up and unavailable. the main signs are chlorosis and necrosis of the leaves ( yellow and dead tissue)
John - Thank you for the info. I think I’m going to go this route and see what happens. They are in 7gal fabric pots so it looks like I have a lot of watering ahead of me. Just so I’m clear, I should be watering with 14gals of a half does nutrient solution or just PH’d water? If it should be with nutes, should I add cal mag? Thanks!
Have you checked the ph of your soil? Just because you are feeding it to them doesn’t always mean they are eating it. If soil ph is off is can lock up a nutrient like magnesium, so even though you are feeding it they won’t take it in. I’d test your soil and see where you are at on ph and ppm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yes . water enough to come though to check EC. if it is high water until it is corrected. ph in soiless is rarly an issue. soiless medium tend 5o stay around 6 to 6.5 anyway. I never ph balanced anything when using promix. I only adjusted it when using rockwool. . it is not as important as people think . anything from 5.5 to 6.5 is fine .even 5 to 7 . in lab tissue culture they run 4.5 as the slightly acidic solution reduces pathogens ( disease causeing microbes)
Thank you! I appreciate the info. I just ran a gallon of water + CalMag (based on previous responses. My PPM going in was around 200 and coming out it was around 1200. I’ll mix up some light nutes and switch over to testing EC and make sure it reads what you stated above when I’m done.