Need hydro growers help

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by okierandy58, Aug 9, 2012.

  1. Hello all. New member but a old timer soil grower. I have read so much and so many different subjects, and yet I am so confused. I have used a single DWC setup for a couple of years, and it was really easy to use. But now I am going to a RWDC setup, similiar to this one on Utube [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhJ7QICH3_4"][/ame][ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhJ7QICH3_4[/ame] but using only a single manifold return due to using only 3 tubs and reservoir. Now for my questions-- I understand the need for TDS EC and PH meters, but I sure like your thoughts on which meters that are low cost but effective meters. So many meters, it is hard to choose. I use Liquid karma, Cal-mag, and botanicare pro blend. And each has the PPM tables on thier labels, but after you get the first bottle metered, how do you meter the next bottle when it is mixed in the reservoir with the first mix. In other words, you add karma and get the ppm you want, then add the cal-mag, how do u know what the ppm should be, then add the blend and remeter again. I don't understand how each mix can be metered when mixed together. I have read start with a weaker mix than suggested on the label and go up from there if needed, but again how do u read the meter? Now my room is about 4ft wide but 10ft long. I got a used little giant pump 2E38N which says it had a 300 GPM rate. I am afraid that this might be to much. My friend used the system mentioned on utube, using 6 totes, and he said it really pumped. Can u have to much flow? Do I need to add a adjustable power control switch to slow it down or will that hurt the pump? And on a last note for now, I have 400HPS, 600 HPS, and 1000 MH lights, all of which are several years old, but seem to work well. But I have read that ballast deteriorate over years of work. My bulbs seem to be as bright as usual, so is there a way to know if the ballast are not working up to their full potential? I have been researchering LED lights and up to now, the 345w penatratorX LED Grow Light Review - The 345W Penetrator from Hydro Grow LED seems to be good, but the cost is so high---and suggestions guys? I want the 3w led over the 1w with 60 degress ( i think this was the best angle, but not sure if 90 was better) I hope that one of you expierenced people will not help me now, but also walk with me as we start from the beginning and go all the way to the end. maybe as a one on one discussion so I dont take a lot of room in the forum...... In advance I thank you for r help RandyJay

     
  2. thanks alot for taking the time to make this man, really cleared up my confusion!!
     
  3. kelly-- r welcome but what confusion? how to make a rwdc?
     
  4. Buy a PPM meter like the BlueLab Truncheon meter.
     
  5. So your saying when you add your mix you are calculating it for 1 bucket? But you want to know what the ppm and ph will be when that mix circulates around all the buckets?
     
  6. not exactly my friend--- what i am asking on that subject is--- when you figure out the caculations for the reservoir for the first chemical (cal-mag)--rather it be 5 gallon or 20 gal... now you pour in the next-(Karma)--how do you know it is the right ppm if the cal mag is already there--then u add the grow formula--surely the ppm has changed to a higher readfing- but which chemical is adjusted if the reading is off?
     
  7. Obviously ur gonna add base nute first bring that up to desired ppm. Then just take that number and remember it or write it down. Now add ur desired amount of additives measure again and subtract from previous number. That will give u the ppms of the additive. U can keep doing this with the rest of ur nutes.
     
  8. #8 cheecha, Aug 11, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2012
    PPM meters do not measure parts per million, they're used to measure EC(Electrical Conductivity)..Different meters use different conversion rate e.g
    .5(Hanna) .7 (Truncheon) etc..The meters do not tell you what specific 'salts' in water/solution there are, only the relative TDS(total dissolved solids) it contains..
    The proper way to get an 'actual elemental ppm in sol would be by using the 'guaranteed analysis' (%) from the products(s) label and calculating to get at actual elemental ppms..
    FYI, Liquid karma makes your PPM climb and pH drop in sol, however it hardly makes a dent/contributes to NPK..IF I were to use it, I'd add to sol last, and pay no attention to the meters reading i.e ( the rise in ppm)..
    But that's just me..
    Hope it helps..:)
     
  9. A few observations on that system.

    I began to build a system just like that. I ran into a few problems. First, since the sides of the plastic tubs are so thin, the uniseals had a hard time keeping a seal and I had leaking. I have read that others have had this same problem and had to resort to silicone.

    The video shows a filter in the line. I started with using one and removed it because it always clogged! Not sure why I needed it in the first place.

    The system concept is really good. I ended up buying a used Current Culture system for less than I could buy all the parts. If you can get it up and running it will really grow for you!
     
  10. First. thank you, I just set it up for a test run---fortunately----there are no leaks whatsoever (yeaaa)-The seals were really tuff to get the pipe in--i meant TUFFFF LOL-but I am going to seal the outside just in case-- sure are a lot of meters to choose from-- the Truncheon is under 100 bucks, but the Hanna meters run from 20 to over 100-- what meter did you finally choose-- I like the trunhcen I looked at so far, since no calb is needed. As far as a PH meter--seems any fish place would be ok wouldn't it? Any one have ideas about LED's??? Again-- I appreciate the time you all took--- can't wait to get this medical grow (tomatoes-of course) going. THANK U GUYS look forward to your answers
     
  11. #11 obsstar, Aug 11, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2012
    sounds good....just to give a heads up, if there are any really tiny leaks, calcium and other salts in the liquid will usually seal them up from the outside in......

    i personally use a bluelab ppm/ec meter (not the truncheon)...it has the .5, the .7 AND the ec scales, and does temps as well....had it for a year and haven't had to calibrate it yet.......one bottle of calibration fluid, just in case, was only 10 bucks or so anyways, and again, never need to use it

    ppm meters are different from ph, they don't lose their calibration all the time and you can let them dry out (as they are just 2 metal probes, not like the wick on ph meters that you have to keep wet)

    yea, ph meters seem hit or miss

    i've had the milwaukee $20 meter break on me (wasn't unexpected from a $20 meter heh)

    i've also had bluelab's ~$200 ph meter crap out on me and needed calibrations every time i wanted to use it just to get one reading, and then it would uncalibrate itself

    right now i use one from "hm" or something....that goes to the hundredth.....for instance, i like to keep my ph at around 5.85....so, it reads to two decimal places i guess is the easy way to put it lol

    anyways, it's been pretty good so far (had it about 6 months)

    well....i have no personal experience with leds....but from a few posts around here i have heard that hydrogrowled has pretty good lenses on their leds, possibly one of the better ones out there...and the leds all around are pretty good...but again, i have no personal experience with them, just relaying the info
     
  12. Again--many thanks all--- got the mixing thing down now=== fill the res--leaving a gallon out--mix a gall of pure blend times the total no. of gallons in res- plus the tubs of course--have to measure that out using 5 gallon bucket. then ppm, then with the cal-mag just times the total again same with karma--- I am going to silicone when the set up is ready to be finalized. Just running a test now--got to break it down and move it to the finale local... Want you guys to know that I have been reading this forum for a long time, but never asked questions--- and for the most part-- u all all really nice peps-- thanks again
     
  13. Hi guys--- ok, here is the next item--and this one is a big problem. In the past, (now don't laugh caz it worked up to a point). I used the big-tall tidy cat plastic bucket for my tomatoes. I had 2 fish bubblers and a heater in the bottom and during the first month-it worked great. But after a couple of years I found that if I grew longer than 12weeks(includes flowering time)-the root system would be so dense, that some of the nutrients would settle on the bottom. I had to pull the air tubes off the bubblers due to the denseness, but that really didn't help. Now I had good grows, but it should had been better. Now with that in mind, I will try to explain what I am doing now. Now in the center of the 14 gallon tub lids, we (my son had to help caz of my pain it's hard to do this stuff alone)cut a hole so that litter buckets, which have been cut with so many holes it look like swiss cheese sit snug. Now the litter lids have a hole cut for 6 inch planters. These buckets have supported 6-8 feet plants before. Now with 3 tubs and the res--this 300 gpm does circulate the water--we used food dye last night during the test run and it did mix the dye, but the contents of the chemicals are heavier, so I been thinking that since we have so many pumps and bubblers from the last system, maybe we can put 2-3 in each tub out side of the litter buckets and being in each tub will help mixture stay mixed. I thought before the set up that a 300gpm would be like a rushing river, but instead it flows like a gentle stream. I could be wrong, but I think the chemicals will settle, but my son found this used 4 inch round bubbler which I plan using in the res. I hope this will be enough for the res to keep fresh air and mixture mixed... I hope I explained this well enough for u to understand :) your thought guys?
     
  14. If I read your post correctly, you are placing the litter buckets in a hole in the lid of your 14 gallon tub, then putting a six inch net pot in a hole in the lid of the litter bucket, correct?

    I don't understand the need the need for the litter buckets. Why not just put the six inch net pots in the lid of the 14 gallon tub?

    On the airstones, more will not hurt.
     
  15. [quote name='"Marsdude"']If I read your post correctly, you are placing the litter buckets in a hole in the lid of your 14 gallon tub, then putting a six inch net pot in a hole in the lid of the litter bucket, correct?

    I don't understand the need the need for the litter buckets. Why not just put the six inch net pots in the lid of the 14 gallon tub?

    On the airstones, more will not hurt.[/quote]

    If u do as u say all the roots will grow together. Not good if one of ur plants need some root care. He has a good idea of what he's doing. Keep it up op.
     
  16. Marsdude-- It is because the lids of the totes as so flimsy, that after a few weeks, the tomatoe plants become so heavy, they collapse and the planter goes into the tub. The lids ofr the l8itter box is strong-- i have grown in them for 2-3 years now.. I have a few pics I took today-I have to figure out how to upload first lol
     

  17. Either you do not understand what I am saying, or you are just posting to be posting. Sorry, this is not true.

    Here is the system I run:

    Under Current XL 13 : Current Culture Hydroponics, superior hydroponic systems.

    This is essentially the same system that obsstar built. A 14 gallon has plenty of room for the roots of one plant. You could actually grow several depending on the type of grow you do and the size of plants.
     

  18. I understand.

    I would love to see your pics. I know I really like my system. It seem really easy to run. I wish you great success!
     
  19. well...i'm currently doing one like flowamasta:

    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-g...flowamastas-buds-get-fat-1-plant-monster.html

    except for two pots...but the same type of setup

    separate res
    one line sending h2o+nutes to the plants (split to the two pots)
    two lines back to the res as returns
    all perlite (i did not do a bottom 2" layer of hydroton clay pebbles like he does....hope that doesn't hurt late in flower!)
    in a "pot sock", which is in one bucket, which is in another bucket the exact same size (4 buckets total for 2 plants)
    and a drip ring around each plant
    the inside bucket has holes drilled in it
    the "pot sock" keeps the perlite from falling into the outer bucket and still allows for awesome drainage

    i use 5 gallon painter's buckets
    i also use a "smart pot" as opposed to what he calls a "pot sock"....wasn't able to find any of them here where i'm at...

    i currently have it running water+nutes 24/7 which may seem a little crazy, but at one week of it they are absolutely exploding with new growth and all the growth is noticeably bigger (especially the leaves) than how the clone tender had the clones, even when they were on the mother....i can run 24/7 because i saturate my res h2o with oxygen (airpump+stones) so the roots/plants do not drown

    i got the idea from doing dwc for so long

    dwc you have the roots immersed 24/7 and the plants don't drown because of the oxygen saturation in the h2o, from the airpump+stones

    i used to dwc in just 5 gal painters buckets, but NOT recirculating........and it sucked LOL

    recirculating is sooooooooo much better
     

  20. I used to do the same thing. I couldn't agree more. A RDWC or UC system grows better and is easier to run, IMHO.
     

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