i have a 12 x 12 room , were building it in an attic above our garage, the room has attic trusses so the room is basically a full room except for the side walls the end about 4 ft up and slant towards the celing , were about to put up drywall so need help placing fans an duct work before , suggestions on fan size and model , or what not , hav in mnd i plan pulling fresh air from the overhang vent in and exhausting into the space above the room into the attic which has ridge vent the entire way look at the attached digram and help me place what i need to keep that room enviromentally friendly, i live in michigan so we have those ot humid summers so have this in mind and i plan on running CO2 but temps will still probably get high in the summer, so any help is greatly appreciated, like i said any suggestions on fans that work well and the size i need ( CFMs?)for my size room would be very helpful, money and noise arent a big issue, althouth if theres a decent fan for the money "im down" also attached is a venting diagrm i have in mind to do for the room my only question is should i put any type of booster fan in the intake duct for fresh air or will the can fan bring the air in effieceintly from the outside??
wow 40 views and not one.. ya that looks to work , or no, you should do this or anything at all, not one person has an opinion, some of the people here, do this for a living so someone has to have an idea, i appreciate any help i can get with this issue.
Dude, run on sentances are definitely your weak point. People always get so pissy when I bring up a lack of grammar and spelling but seriously... You're asking us to take the time to give you advice on fans and yet you already planned out. I completely disagree with your usage of the available space. I also disagree that one fan will accomplish all the venting you need. Personally I'd use a 240cfm box fan for each 1000w lamp, and an additional fan to vent the room. Attic grows are notorious for heat, so skimping on fans is a bad idea. Sorry no one else has offered any advice. A lot of the views are "lurker" views of people who cannot post.
ya i failed every english class in high school, it definatly shows. i plan on getting a portable AC for the summer. found one that will accomodate the room for $300. and trust me i dont plan on skimping on the ventilation, id rather have to much then too litlle, what i;d like to do is use 2 booster fans on oppisate sides of the room for intake bringing fresh air from the overhang vent and use a inline blower fan for my exhaust which i will mount in the ceiling so i can vent straight up to the ridgevent, i plan on useing booster fans to cool off my lights, i have 2 xtrasun hoods with 6" flanges to attach duct work. so all in all i plan on having 4 booster fans ( 2 for intake, 2 for hood AC) 1 HO inline blower for exhaust (attached to 2 exhaust outlets), an AC unit for the summer( 8,000 btu), and then some oscilateing fans for air movement in the room it self i really appreciate the help 2lazy, like i said im in the final turn in getting the room up and running, i just want everything to run smoothly when its done
Sounds good. Should work. Do be aware of your power consumption. All that stuff is going to need it's own circuit. I'd also definitely go with 240v on the lighting to cut down on the amps. Just figure it this way. Calculate the cubic space in the grow room and then determine how long it will take to vent all the air in the space and replace it with fresh air from outside. If you are replacing all the air at least once per minute then the inside of your growing area will only differ by a few degrees from the intake temperature. So if it's 90 outside it might be 93 in the growing area. An enclosed system utillizes two rooms of about the same space. One area is the growing room and the other room is the atomosphere conditioning room. By cycling air between these two spaces you can completely control CO2 level, temperature, and humidity, even in a hot attic during the summer. My suggestion for you would be to look into this solution. Personally that's what I would do if I had an attic and the cash to spend.
please, please dont get a portable ac. you can get a much bigger(btu's) ac w/heater at home depot. you have a 12' x 12' room to cool down...1152 cubic feet...IN AN ATTIC!!! insulate, insulate, insulate. your kinda gonna hafta make an air-tight room in order to create and maintain an artificial environment. if im wrong, please correct me. my attic gets into the 130's in the summer. i hope yours doesnt.
INSULATED,, already done, EXTRA THICK r-19, i cant find tthe a/c your talking about though, i dont have a window to put it in so it has to be one of those free standing portable ones cheepest one i found at HD was $319
the eletrician that wirded my house put 2 wires going up there for 2 seperate circults, couldn't be more perfect for me, only thing is getting water up there, we would have to run a insulated line inside the garage(put tight up against the wall, garage is already drywalled,) even then we still run the risk of that pipe cracking in the winter, any ideas on that? i know they make a plug in water pipe"jacket for outside pipes but thats more electricity im gonna be running. do you think a 424 cfm fan with 6in fittings will be sufficient for the room, it will cycle the room out in 2.7 min if need be, plus ill have to 6" booster fans( rated 250cfm) bringing in fresh air looking at buying this fan http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-6-Inch-INLI...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad4efc8fd
never mind i'm going to going with a 8" active air with 720cfm i can get it at my local hydro store, always like to support them when i can, with my discount i can get it for $165, not to bad i think.
That's an excellent price on such a large fan, and I'd do the same. You have some options with such a large fan.
Hi There. I will offer my .02 for what it is worth. If you are venting warm air from a grow room into your attic, where will that warm air go in the summer? Will the heat start to "cycle"...will the intake for your room be sucking in hot air, from the attic, in the summer, and then exhausting hotter air into the same area that the intake for the room will be located? Portable AC units, at any price, are pathetic pieces of shit that should be thrown from tall buildings. Patooey. I hate them. I have 6 or 7. They suck ass...every one of them suck ass. I will be switching out the one remaining "In Room" one for a through the wall unit. The through the wall unit does not go to the outside, either. Please take a look at my room(s) here: http://forum.grasscity.com/grow-room-design-setup/327912-new-grow-room-9.html I use a Contained Growing Environment (CGE) set up, and find it to be absolutely wonderful. So, if at all possible, you may want to look into anything other than a portable unit. They are pieces of shit. Truly they are. You also may want to really think about the different seasons and the effect they will have on your room. Will sucking 10 degree below zero cold air in affect your plants, etc. All incredibly important things to consider. For example...when you look at my rooms, you wouldn't think I would have a hard time with the air being drawn in from the top of the rooms, to be used to cool the lights. Even in winter. But a 12-15 degree variance in temps will cause the pipes to sweat, and then they can drip on my plants. Unbelievable. But I never considered this ramification when I was putting the rooms together with my Bros. Go figure. Anyway...I hope in this rambling you will find something to help. Good Luck!!
Bump everthing Bud Nuken said. He also has some practical experience. Priceless. I hate to say this but you will be screwed if you don't seal the room and just control your own enviroment. If you are going to run CO2 you won't have much of a choice. Spend a little more now and save a bunch later. I just puchased a complete package unit heating and 3.5 ton a/c for 800.00 plus 250.00 for pipe and distrubution box. You have a lot time put into this don't skip now. Use the fan you just purchase for an air scrubber. 8000 btu a/c is not enough, don't forget it will have to cool it self if it's free standing!!! The nice thing is it's complete and you don't have to deal with the refrigerate. Here are some notes I saved from another thread. Calculating The Size of a Air Conditioner OK guys so this come's up as or in a thread just about every other day.... with this formula a room would be able to get in the 70-72 deg range even when it's 100+ but yet still maintain humidity at night time with proper air movement Calculating Heat Load Heat is measured in either BTU or Kilowatts. 1KW is equivalent to 3500BTUs. The heat load depends on a number of factor's 1.The floor area of the room 2.The heat generated by equipment 3 the heat from lighting 4.The number of room occupants 5.The ambient temp ( your room's starting temp ) this will be added asap im still playing with the #'s 1.Floor Area of Room Room Area BTU = L x W x 40 ( H = 8foot + 5btu per foot after that) If you have a wall that is facing the sun add in for the extra heat Sun facing wall BTU = L x H x 40 2.Equipment This is trickier to calculate than you might think. The wattage on equipment is the maximum power consumption rating, the actual power consumed may be less. However it is safer to overestimate the wattage than underestimate it. Equipment BTU = Total wattage for equipment x 3.5 Ballast in room BTU = ballast wattage/2 x 3.5 3.Lighting Lighting BTU = Total wattage for all lighting x 4 Air cooled hood BTU = wattage x 4 / 2 @ 400= 200-250 cfm 600= 250-300 cfm 1k = 300-350 cfm ^ is just a guide cfm per hood will be on your ducting/SP.... 4.Occupants even being that im only there for 2 or so of the 12 hrs i like it to be able to handle the extra sweat when i smoke one. Total Occupant BTU = Number of occupants x 400 Total Cooling Required Add all the BTUs together. Total Heat Load = Room Area BTU + Total Occupant BTU + Equipment BTU + Lighting BTU If your using a portable a/c Total Heat Load BTU x 2 ^this has been from threads on this site i dont have any real experince with portable a/c's other then one and it was not in a growroom but if you plan on getting one id think about one thats bigger then you thought about sample so if we have a 3 x 3 room with 1k and 200 watt's in fan's/pump's for room we need 360 btu for fan we need 700 btu 1k = 4000btu ballast in the room = 1500 btu we would need a/c that is 6560 btu i would round up to the next size 7kbtu air exchange aka intake/exhaust complete air exchange every 4-5 minutes is average for a grow room/greenhouse (co2 control).... for heat control (no a/c) i like to use 2.5 minutes {1M is best imo} m=air exchange in min's l x w x h = cf / m = cfm lets use are room from above as a sample 3 x 3 x 8 = 72 /2.5 = 28.8 (30) highend turn over = 72cfm lowend turn over = 30cfm now for the light 1k = 300-350cfm exhaust system and air-cooled hood should be separated but most ppl cant/dont ( it's spendy) so add them together if your using 1 fan for both the fan size we need is 330-422 remember you have duct loss (SP) in the sample room i would use a 440 cfm fan SEER & EER ratings NO they are not the same..... EER, or the Energy Efficient Ratio, is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level - usually 95F. EER is calculated as a simple ratio of BTU's to the amount of power a unit consumes in watts. Here is an example using an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and consuming 1500 watts of power: EER = BTU's / Watts 12,000 / 1500 = 8 EER = 8 While it is true that the higher the EER and BTU's, the more efficient the cooling system, many make the mistake of purchasing oversized air conditioners and ignoring EER ratings. The following is an example of an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and 1200 watts: 12,000 / 1200 = 10 EER =10 This would mean that this second unit can produce the same amount of cooling but more energy efficiently. Therefore, to save money on your monthly electric bill, choose a cooling system by getting an appropriately sized unit with a high EER. SEER(seasonal energy efficiency ratio) measures how efficiently a residential central cooling system (air conditioner or heat pump) will operate over an entire cooling season, as opposed to a single outdoor temperature. As with EER, a higher SEER reflects a more efficient cooling system. SEER is calculated based on the total amount of cooling (in Btu) the system will provide over the entire season divided by the total number of watt-hours it will consume: SEER = seasonal Btu of cooling / seasonal watt-hours used There you go I hope it helps. Doradoguy.