Need help with RDWC nute schedule

If you are having problems with root rot in a normal DWC setup, then if you aren't careful about a recirculating system, you'll likely get the same problems.
 
Please read my root rot post, see it in my signature below.  Your nutrients must be kept below 70F at all times, 68 is ideal.  If you can't do this, then you WILL get root rot in DWC.  If you can't keep temps in check, maybe you need a different hydro method.
 
Next, you need a PPM/pH meter, period.   If you didn't want to change nutrients, you need to "top off"  You simply check your pH/PPM then add nutrients until you reach the desired levels, and viola, you're done.  Meters are necessary, otherwise you're using luck.  
 
Read up on Lucas Formula, (also a link in my signature) this covers how to top off nutrients.
 
Finally, the other link in my signature is for a DIY recirculating DWC system.  

 

it would be safer to top up with just water, but by not using a meter you doing yourself a great injustice. you will always be guessing and only know when you have it wrong when you start seeing ill health but by then the damage has already be done.
 
a EC or ppm meter will cost you about [10 and you will grow shit loads more bud by using it. 
 
without one you can never know how much water to nutrients your plant is using. you need to measure twice with 24 hours in between to work out if the plant is using a ratio of nutes that is stronger or weaker that what is in your reservoir.
 
I have a 32litre reservoir and I change my nutrient solution every 4 weeks

 

flea bay is where I get my ph and PPM meters.
Also there is a 69 dollar portable RO system on there, worth it's weight in gold.
Search for Heisenburg Tea to control the root rot. Lack of air, water temp, shit falling into the buckets (leaves), and light entering the top of the buckets are all causes of the rot.

 

 
Any will be plenty accurate for what we use them for. My EC meter was one of those £10 ones from China. I bought it almost 10 years ago and it's still working perfectly and has never needed calibrating. I don't see why people buy expensive ones 

 

The meter is your best friend.  It's not a glamorous investment like lights or an impressive RDWC system, but it's necessary to grow well. 
 
RDWC will require a chiller.  Especially if you are already having temp issues.  RDWC will have higher temps than a non recirculating system, just because the pump is running in the nutrient solution, transferring heat.   If you don't have the budget for a meter, my guess is that you don't have the budget for a chiller (which start at about $300).  If you aren't prepared to purchase a chiller, I would suggest using a different hydro method (like Hempy buckets)

 

No micro grows where U never leave and can fuck with it every day a chiller is not really needed, but when you go on vacation in the summers, then what? It was a expensive item for me, I grew without one for a long time, just get a commercial air pump and you can get away with higher water temps, but for maximun yeild and quality you have to create the perfect never changing environment.

 

Generally speaking most people don't use air pumps big enough to max out the dissolved oxygen in even warm water. Chilling this won't help unless you also blast more air in to it. I see so many growers with tiny air pumps and thinking as long as the plant doesn't die its doing a perfect job. Adding more air would increase a lot of people's yields

 

 
If you have the time to constantly babysit your RDWC nutrient temperature, and are okay with rotating frozen bottles in and out of it, then you can have success.  If you have root rot problems, don't want to buy a chiller, and use a recirculating DWC system (or considering the switch) then you are defeating the purpose of using a well designed hydroponic system.   A well designed system should be stable and worry free.   I'd hate to worry about my crop being ruined if I wanted to stay out late, or not come home for an evening.  But that's me.  Keep in mind that if one plant gets root rot, they all will (in RDWC)   To me, that's a compelling reason to use a hydroponic method more fitting to my lifestyle.  That's why there are so many different hydro methods to choose from, and it's my opinion that one should be chosen based on what works best for you.   If you can tolerate the annoyance, that's your decision.  If you don't want the annoyance, and want a constantly successful grow, then a chiller is the way to go.
 
Good luck!  Thanks for the notice about the Lucas thread going down.  I believe I've saved a .PDF of it, I'll have to host it somewhere to share with everyone. 
 
Cheers,
Past

 

Here ya go, read the whole site, won't take long.
 
http://www.asklucas.com/Lucas-On/Additives.html

 

I have 6 5 gallon bucket RDWC with a 55 gallon res..and it is a RDWC not just an ebb and flow. But i had problem with root rot when i first started. Ive been freezing 5 1 gallon water bottles and rotating them in me res for some time now to keep the temps down..i dont mind it for some weird reason(funny because i thought i was the only one that did this haha.) I had to amp up my air pump big time i got an industrial one. Get a PPM meter..amazon has them for cheap. Keep your water clean, good air flow and lower water temps and your good. as far as feeding check your feeding schedule for your nutes and mirror that. If you dont have one research your strain and make one and experiment as you grow. check your PPM and keep track on a chart what it is and when you add nutes. those are a few factors in making a feeding cart

 

Think I got my air pump from amazon for around 50 bucks.
Been working for over a year non-stop without any problems and it makes enough air it almost blows the plants out the buckets.

 

i recoment using a minimum of 10 litres per minute for every 5 gallons of nutrient solution, but more is better