NEED ADVICE ON NUTES

There would be a difference between Miracle Gro and RO brotha.. It's not a fair comparison.. To withhold nutrients completely doesn't really prove much; Wouldn't do it myself, but it's cool to look at anyways lol

Comparing nutes to ro is a no brainer.. It'd be more productive to put one line against another..

 

Where are ya again, week 3/4? Lookin good!.. Looks like K is/was getting locked out perhaps..? Maybe even too high of a vpd.. Where's your RH at?

 

You have got way to much stuff in your soup. As you can see the big bud and bud candy have not made your buds as advertised and your b52 has not stopped any stress Hmmm whad ya guess that? Man, I'm not trying to be a dick but everyone on here takes me the wrong way, so as nicely as I can say it... Stop using unnecessary additives until you have 100% success with only a base nutrient! If you are not having success with only a base then you need to change something and its not more additives or more salts or more calmag or epsom salt or bud sweetener or bud boosters or plant growth regulators, ahh!! All of that crap is gimmicks to get the hobbyists money! Shew, now breath bizie...itll be okayyyy
 
Just so you know; your AN has plenty of calmag and you need no calmg additive. Also adding bud candy adds even more mag. Once you over do one mineral your plant will have adverse effects. It can lock out the abundant mineral or it can interfere with the uptake of other minerals. The biggest issue your plants are screaming out to me is too much calcium and magnesium. I can tell you have been having a lot of leaf drop also; a healthy plant that age should have much more vegetative growth. I think this is going to be a problematic grow all the way to harvest. I wouldn't bank on your overdrive making those spectacular buds that it promises especially with all the abundant mag already; overdrive is basically just magnesium, it is said cannabis plants use more magnesium during ripening but I don't think it was natures intention to blast them with mag at harvest time...
 
I don't get why AN sells three different magnesium supplements; bud factor x, bud candy, and overdrive are all basically just magnesium. That is AN's problem is their recommending to every grower to get enhanced quality by using every additive, really that has done nothing but cost them biz imo because people cant apply their products correctly. Other then their insane amount of additives and numerous base's their product does actually work very well when you figure out how to apply it. I even use the conni in a dwc so I know from exp how easy it can burn plants and that it does work just fine when applied correctly.
 
And on the cloudy water thing; your ph could be going way off causing the cloud or adding too much and or too high of a concentrated ph up can cause nutrient water to cloud, it could also be bacteria in the water and or lack of dissolved oxygen in the water.
 
 

 Advanced nutrients produces some of the highest quality herb but it is truly only for EXPERIENCED growers. Reading a lot does not make you experienced. And for the record I am part Canadian and Canadian's only mess with the best of the best of all items. Really they don't even like getting items imported from the US because they live up to higher standards then the US. Their inspections and policies are much more thorough. Also for the record I am born and raised in the US so I am a US citizen and not Canadian but I do know some facts about their country and that is one.
 
 

This guy   where does he come up with this stuff... ? So informative and explanatory.. Your wealth of knowledge never ceases to amaze me... 5.6 ph is fine. Here is where op states PH-
 

 
5.6 ph is fine and having high lights will not cause burned plants, only stretchy and lanky ones. It starts at a acceptable point but rises out of his control; the starting ph is fine and no one should have to adjust ph every day. If you are then something is wrong.
 
Also for the OP- Your ph is probably shooting up so fast because of bacteria growth. Working enzymes also raise the ph as they break down dead matter; too much dead organic matter then faster of a ph increase. Dead organic matter is what bacteria thrives off of also. Sometimes just simply having the feed too high will cause the ph to rise fast since the plants are being forced to eat, then the ph starts to drop once they stop eating or lock out nutes. That's the tricky part to growing is that there is a number of different things that can cause the same effect to your plant.
 
OP start working on your next grow now. And for Drosmoke- This is what "pushing plants" with high nutes and additives does...looks lush and vigorous huh?
 
And like always I wrote a book. ->  bed
 
One love

 

First off Biz, No this is what happens when you use entirely too many additives coincided with high tds levels and a lack of experience (either with the line, or in general). To blame it on high tds levels is incorrect, unfair, biased and not backed by a single bit of research (if it is I'd truly be interested in reading some). There are thousands upon thousands growing with such levels (myself included) and experiencing excellent results in fact, the industry's middle of the road tds strength is considered 1,000ppm according to Ed Rosenthal (a horticulturist) and most any person you run into on GC. I personally stay below that- as you know, we've had this talk before lol..

Genetics aside, General Hydroponics produces some of the finest quality herb as well and it has for much longer than AN - GH 35+ years and AN 14 years. Add in the price tag and I think that's enough said my friend.

Please don't get me wrong, I'm not saying AN doesn't make a quality product it's just how they go about it. They won't sell you an all in one (or even an all in two) because they wanna soak the shit outta you. Their marketing and product line seems to revolve around getting as much as they could out of us, and I have no respect for a company as such. Canada eh? Haha

I came across a post where a guy claimed a 20% increase in yield (not true to AN's claims of doubled yields), and it only cost him $1,000 for the line! What a deal right? Sorry I'm just being facetious. lol
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/advanced-nutrients-do-i-think-there-worth-it.1208/



"And for the record I am part Canadian and Canadian's only mess with the best of the best of all items."

That's a stereotype my friend, no basis for such a claim.. Same goes for your remark about Canadian's having higher standards and not supporting our imports lol . . I'm not sure where you got that from brotha- The U.S and Canada are the world's LARGEST partners in trade, both imports and exports -

https://www.munknee.com/what-are-the-major-imports-exports-between-the-u-s-and-canada-this-list-might-surprise-you/

 

I spent $100 on a gallon of A&B conni and I have made thousands off it. My special additives are silica, and amino aid, that's it! Like four runs and counting. Its expensive because there is more stuff in it. That's why I told you to try the GH flora nova since you're a GH freak. Its not cheap stuff either but that's because it has all kinds of good stuff in it. You don't need thousands in additives to get a vigorous plant, you need a good stable environment and keep the plant healthy all the way through its life. There is nothing in nature that says plants need X amount of nutes to be healthy. It's the growers job to do that. The trick is slowly feeding in veg up to as high as the can take it, before you get burn or leaf curl. Then start flower when you have reached your desired size. All you want is a nice dark green, thick leafed plant and you know shes full of nutes. They will grow by themselves, you don't have to force them with extra nutes. When you start to get deficiencies you will see the leaves discolor and thin out. Just keep the leaves thick and healthy with whatever number she wants. If shes already full then there's no need to raise the feed.
 
 
Yes we trade goods with Canada but try selling them some of our used stuff... I had to get recall release papers just to sell a motorcycle to a Canadian. He told me they charge them a crap load in taxes to import goods from the US, he specifically said the US. That's the only reason I think that.
 
Your comment on Ed and other members having 1k ppm's is fine and can be done but if you keep doing everything by the book then your going to have problems, lots of problems. Show me a 1k ppm  plant in dwc that's not burned? Far and few in between my friend and the ones that even make those numbers are monster size plants so they can take that kind of stress. DWC is 24 hr feeding and the book is not tailored to it. All other systems are feed every watering. That's why soil grows can tolerate higher ppm's because they are feed less often. Then flood and drain need a slightly lower running number then soil since you feed more frequently. And then where do you think that would put a dwc feed strength at? It doesn't say it in the books but its much lower then the rest since you're feeding 24hrs. Seems obvious to me...
 
I was thinking about me being hard on people but I only try to give it to them straight and unsugar coated, some just cant take constructive criticism. I know for me my down fall is being disorganized and not managing space well. I feel that I work for the plants They are the ones I'm helping, not so much the growers. Some peoples plants just want me to yell at them so I relay the message, that's all. One love

 

Lookin good brotha! Yea see where the ph settles and then take it from there... I'm assuming you don't mix the nutes in the buckets with the gals right? By the order which you added it just sounds like it - if so, don't do that anymore. You always want to premix and then add, and if you already do then just ignore this lol..
Cheers

 

should mix and ph seperately, then add to res

 

Are you reading what I'm typing or am I wasting my time? I did already answer this...
 
Man no wonder I smoke so freaking much...people...people, just people

 

When you are topping off, it takes 2 minutes to calculate what levels are needed to balance things back out. If your ph is a bit high, ph your topoff a bit low. You generally only need half of your res strength solution to keep things balanced.

 

Because when you add these items to the mix they adjust ph etc.. You don't want immediate ph swings in the rootzone, and neither do you want extremely concentrated levels of the nutrients/additives in the rhizosphere.. It will throw the plant into chaos trying to equalize and leave you with slowed growth, possible burn etc... 
 
Plants like consistency.. When the environment around them changes (this includes the below the "ground") they must adapt as well (stomata, osmotic pressure etc).. Slow and steady wins the race my friend.
These are just some of the reasons you want the add back to be stable.