My First Real Grow

Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by bmc86, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. What you've got there mate is a fungal infection. No amount of flushing with spring water or cal mag supplementation will sort that out.

    What's your air circulation like inside the area?
     
  2. [quote name='"TheWatcher"']What you've got there mate is a fungal infection. No amount of flushing with spring water or cal mag supplementation will sort that out.

    What's your air circulation like inside the area?[/quote]

    Its not a ventilation problem. The tent is open during the day and I use a 550m3/hour extractorl, the tent doesnt get damp.

    I went on a website that diagnoses problems with weed, it has clear pics and explains whats wrong. The only thing that comes close to the problem I have is calmag deficiency.
     
  3. I don't mean intake/extraction. I mean the circulation within it. The picture you posted a few pages back looks very much like a fungal infection. I'm almost 100% sure that's what it is.
     
  4. Sometimes the answer to a deficiency in the plant is not a greater abundance of the deficient element. Rather, it may be a removal of competing elements that solves the issue.

    I agree. Calcium deficiency is what it looks like. And if it isn't Calcium, or phosphorus (maybe), then the only other source of the necrosis I could think of would be Spider Mites.

    Just based on your nutrient levels I would definitely recommend a greater amount of Cannazym. The intended use of that product at 0-2-1 is to straighten out the base nutrient profile from the 5-4-3 (more or less I think) it starts with. Don't be afraid to run as much Cannazym as A or B. That is how the system is designed to be run.

    Definitely concentrate on any new problems as they arise. I think a calcium deficiency (although unlikely given your A+B levels, media maturity, and plant phase) at this point might be tough to dial in because your plant will move further into bloom and the requirements might shift more into line with where the level is at right now.

    My suggestion to anyone who finds themselves at a loss for a cure is to go back to the basics. Check your nutrient solution and dial it in for the time of life, a little more PK and Mag helps right now and the Cannazym should be a start to that, although I recommend some Epsom Salt for the Mag. Make it 1/2 strength with filter water to preserve the ratios and do a good rinse to remove buildup. Maybe there is a buildup of sodium, or an excess of potassium, which is impeding uptake of calcium, and this rinse will remove that possibility from the equation. Then, with a clean media, you can begin using a nutrient profile you find suitable and see how the plant responds. Each phenotype can, and most do, have different nutritional preferences. Sometimes it is important to understand that the damage you see on the leaves is days, if not weeks, in the making. Trying to remedy an issue that may no longer be a problem can then lead to other issues... So take it slow and don't change too much. Depend on the clean media and the golden ratios to balance the plant out and keep track of when all of this happened so you can prevent this issue from occurring to this phenotype in the future.

    Good luck.
     
  5. Yo I use calmag at 5 ml per gallon ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS.. hydro,soil, everything. Coco is notorious for having a calmg issue.
    Do U flush your girls? Or give them fresh water at any point?
     
  6. #186 TheWatcher, Apr 28, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 28, 2012
    I suggest you post this picture in a different section of this forum, and maybe even on some other forums, and ask about the possibility of fungus. You will always get a difference of opinion on these things, but to discount the possibility of fungus and concentrate solely on the nutrients would be wrong imo.

    http://forum.grasscity.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=858494&d=1334330974

    This is not ph spotting and it is nothing to do with calcium or magnesium in my opinion. You can tell clearly by the way it inhabits the actual veins of the leaf. This is what identifies it as a type of fungus as oppose to a nutritional imbalance.
     
  7. #188 bmc86, Apr 28, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 28, 2012
    Ok thays alot of information to take in il read this a few times before doing anything new to my plant.

    Il increase the dose of cannazyme to 4 and see what happens and if its working il increase to your reccomended 5.

    I am curently useing water ph to 5.5 ish with 3 ml of calmag with nothing else. il increse that to 4 next feeding.
    The bud smells like nutrients so maybe its got a build up in the plant?

    I feed the plant just water now and then and I have only flushed the soil by running water through it in the bath once, 2 weeks ago. I bought some canna flush 2 days ago.

    Im not useing any nutrients for now except calmag and have been doing this for 4 days.

    Spidermites, nope none.

    Iv got alot of experienced growers saying diffrent things im very confused lol.

    This is what im going to do for the next week. Il feed with spring water. No nutes. If new growth appears and gets spots il start adding calmag. If not il introduce nutes @ half strength for the next week. After that if no sucsess il flush and harvest, 50-60% of the pistels have gone brown now so another 2 weeks is plenty anyway.

    I have the canna nutrients app on my phone, iv been feeding at high ammounts, you can choose small, medium or high feeding.
     
  8. Have you posted that picture in the sick plants section?
     


  9. ok let me get this straight. ur brand new or close @ growing and you chose a high feeding schedule?what week r u in again? kiss is recommended for beginners. go with the low feeding and start @ 1/2 or 1/4 strength then build up. don't try high feeding sched untill u either have a good # of grows behind ur belt, or got ur strain down pat which would take the former.why r u so stuck on the cal mag? drop it 4 now its an additive. start with a base @strengths mentioned above then build up,then additives if needed and base should always be dropped 10% to 25% if adding multiple additives. which right now you should stay away from.imo u jumped balls deep into a pool with no water.
     
  10. [quote name='"thesage3"']

    ok let me get this straight. ur brand new or close @ growing and you chose a high feeding schedule?what week r u in again? kiss is recommended for beginners. go with the low feeding and start @ 1/2 or 1/4 strength then build up. don't try high feeding sched untill u either have a good # of grows behind ur belt, or got ur strain down pat which would take the former.why r u so stuck on the cal mag? drop it 4 now its an additive. start with a base @strengths mentioned above then build up,then additives if needed and base should always be dropped 10% to 25% if adding multiple additives. which right now you should stay away from.imo u jumped balls deep into a pool with no water.[/quote]

    I have stoped useing everything and only feeding with spring water. I realise now that I got in over my head with a high feeding but I had no idea I could get thiese problems.

    On the bright side, if the spring water doesnt help much and the problem persists the plant is flushed for harvest
     
  11. The plant has has 5 weeks veg 8 weeks flower. Harvest @ 8 weeks is tommorow but its not quite ready yet
     
  12. Can we get an update? How are your girls looking?
     
  13. Yea so far so good the problem was a p defficiency in the end all I needed to do was use some pk13/14 the stems started going red so that gave it away. The plat is looking good I have started to prepare for harves, iv used canna flush and will be harvesting within the next week - 10 days.
     
  14. Mate, at least one of your plants has a fungal infection. There's no way the picture I linked is a deficiency of any kind, whether or not the plant actually is deficient. Make sure you clean everything down properly after this grow or you see it again on your next run. If you didn't post that leaf in the sick plants section then you should have. Going to websites to try and self diagnose is tricky even for an experienced grower. Believe me, people who've had that before will know - it's fungus.
     
  15. The problem is gone. No fungal infection was treated if it was fungal the problem would still be there.
     
  16. The spots have gone from the foliage?
     
  17. Not gone no, there is the odd small area of damage but not new damage or the damage has not gotten any bigger in a few days. I removed the damaged leafs and no new leafs or existingleafe have been affected. its been a few days and there would be considerable damage if the problem was still there.

    She has perked up and is starting to have a very nice smell rather than bud that smells like superthrive.
     
  18. Fungus doesn't always rip through a grow, but the spores will still be there, so just in case, spray the room down after this harvest with a mild bleach solution. A lot of plants tolerate it well and don't get much worse and yield lots of quality bud, so don't automatically assume that because it hasn't gotten worse, it wasn't fungus. I've had plants in the past exactly the same and they've been pretty much fine apart from the odd spotty leaf. But if it gets a hold quickly because it's present in the room, then it could seriously affect the plant. Spores can be present grow to grow and never take hold, but sometimes they do. It's best to guard against it.

    Your plant is also coming into the mid-latter stage of it's development by the sound of it. That smell you're talking about is the characteristics of the plant coming through from the generic smell which dominates the early flower stages. I'd guess that you are not ready for harvest just yet. Any pictures?
     
  19. I decided to harvest the top of the plant today, most of the pistels have gone brown at the top where the middle of the plant has half brown an the bottom is small buds that are mostly white. Im going to harvest the middle next week and leave the bottom till thats ready.

    I have made a drying box, I read a harvesting and cureing website that went into huge detail about how to cure weed correctly, he reccommended makeing a cardboard box with string hanging lines along the top of the box. I can place this box in a cool dry place and check its once or twice a day for 2-4 weeks. When its ready il move to jars for slower cureing. See the pic it shows the box I have made.

    Il copy paste the cureing info im useing here so you can see the process im useing.
     

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