My first organic mix

 
Awesome, welcome aboard!
 
I would recommend 1/3 peat, 1/3 humus (compost and EWC mixed any way you please), and 1/3 aeration.  For the aeration, pumice is the ideal, but if you are making more than 3cf of soil and need more aeration, you can use the perlite you have.
 
As for your amendments.... Per Cubic Foot, I would..... mix the kelp, crab, and neem together and add 1-1.5 cups of that.  I would mix the garden tone, alfalfa, bone, and fish meals, and add 1.5 cups of that.  Then I'd mix the azomite, lime, and greensand up, and add 1 cup of that.
 
The one thing you're missing is rock dust.  Try to find any kind of rock dust- glacial, basalt, granite, etc.  Add 4-5 cups of that per cubic foot of soil you are mixing

 

Gandalf gave ya some excellent advice. You can figure the coco into your 1/3 peat and the perlite into your 1/3 aeration. Welcome to 'ganics man!!

my first grow

 

You may want to up the aeration to 2 parts. If not, then reduce the compost/ewc down to 1/2 parts (Ie. 50% peat, 25% aeration, 12.5% compost, 12.5% ewc). It's much easier to adjust watering in a well-draining, aerated soil than it is to fight a heavy, overly-compacted soil.

my first grow

 

Amendment ratios sound perfect! One thing to consider about azomite-- it is an alumina-silicate. In a high-humic soil like this, the aluminum can be chelated and taken up by the plant.

I bet that concentrates has some glacial rock dust or some basalt.

Gandalf posted a buncha great info aboat it here:

http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1255714-1000W-Coco-Sour-Diesel-SCROG#entry19503918

my first grow

 

Oh nope lol... exactly one page back from the end of that thread.

Here ya go:



"I actually just posted about this yesterday on the organic board in our Silica thread:

Here is a statement from Dr. Faust at BioAg on the alumina-silicates in Azomite, and the effect humic/fulvic acids can have on them: "Typically, aluminum constitutes about 10-20% of these clays. The claim made by sellers is that the aluminum is bound in the silicate structure and is therefore not biologically active. This may be true from a chemistry standpoint, when only examining the clay itself, but is not the case when it is reacted with fulvic acid. So the caveat here is that fulvic acid is well documented to dissolve silicates as well as mono, di, and polyvalent cations (positively charged ions). This means that fulvic acid binds and retains these minerals in a bio-available form for cell penetration or uptake. Now the aluminum has a very high biological significance, unfortunately a toxic one."

here is a website which discusses soil aluminum and toxicity (http://www.spectruma...erpretation.htm).

Here is an excerpt: Very little Al+++ in the soil solution is required to cause damage to most plants. Few, if any plants grown for commercial purposes in this country will tolerate more than 1.0 ppm of soluble Al+++, and most will have some problems at levels greater than 0.5 ppm. Since Al is the most abundant element in the soil, but the soluble Al+++ is the toxic form, we need to know how much Al+++ is present in the soil and what controls its availability to plants. The availability of Al+++ is not completely understood, but certain soil factors are known to have a significant effect.
• The total amount of Al present in a particular soil type
• The soil pH
• The types and amounts of clay in the soil
• Soilorganic matter

The last one, soil organic matter, is important because organic matter produces humic and fulvic acids... which are chelating agents that break apart the alumina-silicate bond. If you start adding more humic/fulvic (which is normally good), you are going to drastically increase the soluble Al+++, which is the toxic form.

And you may not even recognize it as an Aluminum toxicity problem... Here's another excerpt:
Excess soluble/available aluminum (Al+++) is toxic to plants and causes multiple other problems. Some of the more important problems include...
• Direct toxicity, primarily seen as stunted roots
• Reduces the availability of phosphorus (P), through the formation of Al-P compounds
• Reduces the availability of sulfur (S), through the formation of Al-S compounds
• Reduces the availability of other nutrient cations through competitive interaction

So it may appear to be a Phosphorus deficiency, when it is actually aluminum toxicity interfering with P uptake."


my first grow

 

You could probably accomplish the same thing with some topsoil/clay from outside and some rock dust. Lots of people use azomite. I don't think it's a necessary amendment at all and the Aluminum makes it not worth it IMO.

my first grow

 

 
I'd say, if you already have it, it's fine and safe to use in small increments- I would aim for 1 cup per cubic foot or less, and really, with mineral mixes there's not much reason to use more.  That said, I wouldn't buy any more of it, given that it's not necessary and it adds some level of risk/hazard to growing and consuming that plant.
 
The main concern comes when people think Azomite can be used as a rock dust, and they add 5 cups per cubic foot.  Then they also start using humic acid, and they're headed for trouble.
 
If you have it, use it sparingly, if you don't have it, don't get it.

 

you should be golden bro. mycos would be good when you get plants growing. You may want to start an ipm system to head off any pests.

Twas Ever Thus!

 

 
I think the ingredients and ratios are money.... my one nitpick if it is allowed would add another cup of your amendment mix per cubic foot.  Normally we recommend 2-3 cups per cubic foot of "nutrient amendments".... what LD would have called the Food Mix & the Fix It Mix combined.  When you mix in the rock dusts, I would recommend mixing in another cup.  But that is certainly a nitpick, and I think your soil is going to be killer

 

 
Approximately 4-5 cups per cubic foot of soil.  It's pretty hard to over-do, and not a big deal if you under-do, so don't worry about it too much.  Just giving your fungi a home.