My 1000 watt 4x4x6 4 plant independent scrog system.

Hello every one welcome to my first real attempt at a successful grow, right now i have 4 feminized seedlings less than 2 weeks old, i have 1 ak47, 1 white widow, 1 fruity chronic juice and 1 sour AK, i was really looking forward to trying some white widow but I'm not sure that it will happen because at the moment my white widow seedling seems to have a bit of nitrogen burn and i am not sure that it will make it.

I am using a some what modified version of vic's super soil.
2.8 cu ft promix
1.0 cu ft ffof
8 cups Bone Meal 0 10 0
4 cups Blood Meal 12 0 0
25 lb pure worm castings 1 0 0
7.3 cups green sand 2 tbsp per gal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
4 cups kelp meal 0.6 0 1.5
Epsom salts
25% perlite
8 cu feet total

In the veg room i have 8 25 actual watt 6500k cfls on home made reflectors, i know the material is not that reflective but its more for keeping the lights out of my eyes when i am viewing them from above, i also have a hygro-thermometer and a stationary desk fan in the room, the avg temps have been between 80-85 degrees and the humidity has been around %11-%15. The future flowering room for these plants is a 4x4x70" cab that i am in the process of building my self, it will contain a 1000 watt HPS, 400 something CFM centrifugal fan, 6 inch ducting a carbon filter, and a 4 plant independent scrog system.

 

Alright so the plan was to build a 4x4x70" grow cab with scrog crates and i did it! I must say i am very impressed with my work considering i have absolutely no carpentry experience what so ever, after doing all of the math and some careful planning every thing is more less perfect, straight, and structurally sound. The whole thing probably cost me about $120 and took me about 8 hours total to build by myself, the price is excluding the cost of tools which were a drill and a jig saw, it was $86 for the wood 5 4x8 sheets of 1/2 inch particle board and 15 2x4s, $14 for a box of 3" and 1 1/2" screws, 10$ for L brackets and $6 for some door hinges. I had home depot cut 95% of the wood because they told me it would be free, i bet they were sorry for that after they were done because there were a lot of cuts, anyways always make sure to ask the price per cut before because the people who did it for me told me that some of the employees will charge 50 cents per cut.

As you can tell my cab is clearly not ready just yet i still have a few more things to do such as paint the cab white, mount the lights and ventilation equipment, hang the door, cut out the 6" exhaust port, mount the chicken wire for the scrog screens, and make the whole thing air and light tight. The design of my grow cab and scrog crates is pretty simple but very effective, I am going with scrog because i am some what limited on my vertical growing space and i want to be able to achieve optimum yield's. The base of my cab is sitting on 2 48" inch 2x4 legs mounted on their sides, in the bottom below each of the 4 crates there is a 5x5 inch intake, and on each side of each crate i have cut a 2x5 inch hole to help with air flow, these 4 5x5 intakes will all be light proof because my crates will be resting on top of them on legs, and i figure the plants will get a good amount of air flow since it will be flowing from directly below them. The scrog crates are 22x22x24 i realize i might have went a bit overboard on the height but i figured i want massive plants so i might as well let them get 1 foot tall before they hit the screen, and the reason i built them separate is because i want to be able to use scrog and still have the ability to pull my plants out to inspect them, maintain them, rotate them, or even go for a perpetual harvest if i decide i want to do so. I also realize i might have went a bit overboard and lost a bit of my canopy by using 2x4s to frame my scrog crates but i wanted structural integrity since i will have to lift the scrog crates by the frames with 5 gallon pots in them. I plan to use caulk to seal all of the seems and weather stripping to seal the door when its shut, i have recessed 2 door hinges into the 2x4 stud on the front and will use a pad lock hinge to secure the door shut on the other side.

So what do you guys think, any comments or suggestions?

 

Okay so the first two pictures are ak-47 which has grown a remarkable amount in just 3 days but also now seems to be showing signs of nitrogen burn, the third picture is fruity chronic juice which seems to be moving a long at a medium speed and look reasonably healthy a side from the drooping which is probably being caused by the excess nitrogen, and the last 2 pics are of white widow which is not looking so hot but has lived threw the burn thus far. I have been misting the plants 2 times a day since i got the spray bottle on the 14th and i have not changed the soil because i live an hour away from any gardening store and have not been able to make it down there due to snow.

How long will it take for these plants to be able to handle the amount of nitrogen in the soil if they don't die? I know its 2 weeks until they leave seedling stage and enter the vegetative stage but if the plants are being stunted by the nitrogen toxicity and not killed will they continue to become more resistant to the nitrogen until they can grow or will they remain at the mercy of it stunted until they are removed from the soil and allowed to grow out bigger?

The white widow is not looking so good but i do believe that it still has a chance to survive.

What do you guys think i should do since i can not get new soil for the time being should i flush or just ride it out?

 

I am using a some what modified version of vic's super soil.
2.8 cu ft promix
1.0 cu ft ffof
8 cups Bone Meal 0 10 0
4 cups Blood Meal 12 0 0
25 lb pure worm castings 1 0 0
7.3 cups green sand 2 tbsp per gal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
4 cups kelp meal 0.6 0 1.5
Epsom salts
25% perlite
8 cu feet total

 

There is no big difference between my soil and the original recipe, the only difference is 7 cups of green sand which breaks down extremely slowly, the 30% cut of perlite, and 1 cubic foot of fox farms ocean forest. From what rumple said this mix should be just fine for seedlings he said he used it for years before switching to dwc. One thing i should add is this soil did sit for about 1-2 years enclosed in rubber made tubs and before planting i forgot to premoisten the soil the week or 2 before i planted as advised in the original soil thread.

vic's super soil original
1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings

 

Alright ill go ahead and flush them, here is an update with some much better pics, that other camera makes them look a lot worse than they really are.

 

I am not sure what is wrong with the sour AK i am thinking it could be that the seed was stuck on it until today so it could have been deprived of light.

 

The others are a few days younger than the AK, but i am pretty sure the smaller ones have all been stunted by the excess nitrogen because i don't believe they should be that much smaller.

 

Well its been about 3 days since i flushed and things are looking much much better, the AK is moving a long at the same feverish pace that it has been, both the white widow and the fruity chronic juice seem to be recovering well from the nutrient burn and developing some new healthy growth, and even the sour AK which i had thought was a goner seems to be springing back to life. I topped the Ak today to slow it down a bit so the others can catch up and to help it fill out the screen, i also finally got my pH meter calibrated and took measurements the pH of the plants came out between 6.2 and 6.6 so it looks like I'm good in that department. Tomorrow i will be transplanting the seedlings into new planters but i am not sure what i should use for the medium i have a bag of organic jiffy seed starter mix and the vic's super soil I'm thinking I'm going to go with the seed starter mix because i don't want to burn the sensitive seedlings any more, but i am not sure how well it will hold together when i go to transplant it again.