Mini glass bubbler

Discussion in 'Bongs, Dab Rigs, Bubblers, Water Pipes' started by MoonliteWandrer, Nov 20, 2011.

  1. So in putting off my final college application, I decided to make a new piece for myself. My goal is and always has been to avoid aluminum foil, cans, plastics, and any other questionably safe materials.

    You will need:
    glass McCormick extract bottle (vanilla, orange, whatever you have)
    glass drill bits up to 5/16" and drill
    5/16" socket
    eyedropper with glass stem
    J-B weld
    hot glue (optional)

    So to start off, find one of these extract bottles. I chose the McCormick extract bottle because it has an angle along the side, so when you drill into it the stem will have the end in the bottle lower than the one with the bowl. It is extremely difficult to drill into glass at any angle other than 90*. Drain it, wash it out, and peel off the label before you drill.
    For your downstem we are using the glass tube of the eyedropper. You should be able to get a bottle with one at Whole Foods or any other health store. Just make sure that it is glass and not plastic. Just because the bottle is glass doesn't mean the tube is. Separating the tube should be as simple as wiggling it out of the cap. Set it aside for now.
    Now the hard part. Drilling it. Well, it's not so much hard as it is time consuming. Home Depot sells a 4 pack of glass and tile bits from Ryobi for like $15 with sizes from 1/8" to 5/16" (the pack is small enough to snatch if your pockets are reasonably deep). The key to this is to drill while the glass is submerged in water to reduce the risk of chipping off flakes or sending a crack across the whole bottle. Start probably about a little under an inch from the bottom with your smallest bit on the narrow side of the bottle. This will be the most time consuming bore you make, drilling the pilot hole. Take it slow, feeling for any resistance from the bottle. It is incredibly important to maintain the same angle as you started at, or it will break/chip the bottle. You'll feel it start to catch if you go off any. Don't get over zealous. Take your time to do it right, or you'll just have to start over. Once you've gone through with the small bit, enlarge the hole with the 3/16" and 1/4" bit. When you get to the 5/16" bit, do it in increments until the glass tube from the eyedropper fits through.
    Now that everything can fit together, it is time to complete the bowl/downstem assembly. We're going to use the JB weld to connect the large end of the glass tube to the socket. I used a small 5/16" one as I feel it offers a good ratio between room for bud and size. Whatever size you use is up to you (but make sure it isn't so heavy that it topples it over). The glass should be clean, but if your socket has been sitting around the garage like mine it should be cleaned. I used acetone to get off any oils, but soap and water should work fine. The instructions recommend using sandpaper to scuff up the surfaces for better contact, but it isn't necessary. Now squeeze out equal parts from each tube onto some scrap paper and mix thoroughly with a paper clip or something. Stand the glass on top of the socket and smear some of the mixture around it, making sure it is air tight. Instructions say it must dry for 4-6 hours before handling, and another 15 before it is fully cured (if you're not in a rush, wait a solid 24 hours just so you're 110% sure it is ready).

    If you'd like, do the same to the downstem and bottle itself. I prefer to be able to separate them for cleaning, so I use hot glue at the end. It offers the same air-tight seal and because it is glass on glass, it should separate with a little bit of pulling and wiggling.
    From personal experience as well as reading on these forums, I have found JB weld to be one of the best bonding agents to use in these areas where they are subject to heat. Just to be sure though, I like to heat it before I use it to let it gas off. I use a little butane torch (comes from a 20 year old soldering kit) to heat it up to temperatures much hotter than smoking from it will ever get. A regular lighter will suffice as well. Using a damp paper towel so the glass doesn't burn you, slowly heat up the JB weld. Don't do it too fast or you risk cracking the glass. Once you finish just set it down on a plate or anything else that won't melt. Let it cool on its own; I assume you are all aware that when you dunk wicked hot glass in water it just shatters it.

    And there you have it, your new miniature bubbler. Unfortunately I'm in the middle of a dry spell so I haven't been able to test it out yet. I'll post back once I get a couple bowls through it. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. I'm always looking for new things to use for a bowl or downstem.

    Attached Files:

  2. I haven't put together a homemade piece in years, so I'm not going to evaluate the construction.

    But damn, a McCormick extract bottle bubbler? I call that class, sir.
  3. #3 hippie4u, Nov 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 20, 2011
    A for effort and great detail on the tutorial. You went through all that trouble though for a chrome steel bowl. Those can off gas.And you risk glass shards, where you drilled. That hole will always be the weak point. You can get a glass slide and downstem cheap and do this on a slightly larger scale it would be great. Heres a link to my garlic bong. But i didnt have a glass drillbit so i did that. Metal drilling would be easier for most people. And the lid underside has a coating on it so it wont rust. Like a mason jar does.
  4. Holy shit man epic first post. I don't make pieces anymore but it's super we'll done and illustrated perfectly. Great job!
  5. Epic first post for sure. It's been years since I put my own piece together but interesting nonetheless
  6. Thanks for the support guys.

    @hippie4u, I see where you're coming from. I haven't read anything conclusively saying that a chrome plated socket will gas off. I've already super heated it with a blow torch prior to this to try and remove any gaseous impurities. I'm going to try and convince my old chemistry teacher to let me pop in the lab while I have some free time. I plan on weighing another socket (one that I haven't heated at all), then heating it at the peak of the inner blue cone for several minutes before weighing again. These scales are so sensitive that they detect the force of air currents for over 15 seconds after you close the door to the glass enclosure surrounding the plate. It should pick up any weight differences from the materials gassing off.

    I'm going to try and find a decently sized glass marble and drill it out to make a new glass bowl too.

    As to the glass shards issue, I'm not very concerned. Thourough rinsing should eliminate most of the particles. You'd inhale more during a windy day at the beach.
  7. Its not that, once you drill glass theres micro splinters that spread and you cant see them till they have gotten big and you have already inhaled glass. Bigger bongs made just like yours with the water splashing/chugging can do this over time. I have some experiance here becuase i am a metal shop hand. Whats a inner blue cone. If you torch it to long the metal will melt. Chromes only good till about 1000 Degrees. And your only going to heat damage it if you leave it in that long. If you do some how drill a glass marble please dont use it. Heat cannot be applied to drilled glass It will mature the cracks.

  8. That bit about the glass is really informative. Thanks for that.

    In regards to the test I plan on performing on the chrome, the tip of the inner blue cone is the hottest point of the flame of a Bunsen burner. Melting is unlikely as even at the hottest point of the flame is about 1000* C while chromium melts at 1900.
  9. The outside chrome dosent matter if the steel inside wont take the heat. A socket isnt all chromium I belive your looking at 1300F. Dosent a bunsen burner reach up to 1500F. Either way i now a socket wont take long to get red hot. Just watch it. And Message me what happens if you do im curious. 100% Sure though if its not snap on/craftsman/etc. It will definatly melt. Like if it says made in china
  10. I really think your going to cause heat stress to the chrome. its a thin layer with nickel then copper under it. Then steel that the sockets made out of. Plus other mixes depending on brand. You dont know how many metals your dealing with... i mean look copper is brass and tin. The Steel probably has some zinc to it,and iron. They just put chrome on there for corrosion resistance. Not extreme heat, and i consider a bunsen burner extreme heat
  11. I understand. I wouldn't expect the main metal blend that makes up the structure of it to withstand high temperatures like that. It would have been cool though if the chrome coating melted at a lower temperature and you could just watch it melt and drip away from the rest :rolleyes:

    I'll see about getting into the lab. If I do I'll be sure to PM you the link to the post with my results.

    Happy burning :bongin:
  12. Yea thats why i wanted you to PM me me
    I love watching stuff melt. Exspecially metals. I do welding on the side and it's pretty entertaining. Get that steel to flowing and it has its own set of unique properties. Its like looking inside a mini volcano.

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