Malted barley

I grind to a powder and top dress, it's just easier. I did try some organic popcorn SST and also some rye SST. Didn't run enough cycles to determine any difference with those.

 

Funny you should post this when you did. I'm using malted barley flour for the very first time, lol. I've read good things about it so I thought I'd try it; 2Tblspn/5 gallon fabric pot. Thanks.

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I don't think I would do both, but I also top dress ground up 6 row only. Couple small handfuls per pot, I'd guess close to a cup.

 

You want freshly ground malted barley, if you got the flour it loses its enzymes after a while.

 

Yes you can, here is a post I have saved from Clackamas Coot on how he makes his SST:


Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in acolander. Repeat until everything has been removed.
Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.
Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too likely.

Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.
Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let
the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water. Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.

When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.
Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea. (or 1tbs/gallon)

Water your plants with this diluted tea
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Fulvic acid added to the 2nd and subsequent soaks in SST v2.0 does facilitate
enzyme production in the endosperm. In artisan barley malting they also use two other
materials - coconut water & kelp meal both for the Gibberellin (GAs) content.
Any seeds will work just fine, no reason to use this or that or the other special seed for the
purpose of "extracting" enzymes - whatever is organic and of easy access to your locale and
price point.
there are other specific attributes that puréed seeds can offer aside from the enzyme "boost" I
go for weekly. And not necessarily specific to just the seeds but to the plant as a whole.

For example:
Corn (non gmo!) for cytokinins - and this one may be specific to just the corn seed itself -
CC/LD has tested this thoroughly with success, I haven't tried corn sprouts yet as I'm happy with
results from coconut water (excellent source of cytokinins as well) and I'll never run out of
barley seed DOH!
Alfalfa - triacontanol - PGR
Fenugreek - insecticidal properties (Nicotinic Acid - I believe?)
Aside from the weekly IPM spray of Karanja/aloe/silica I've used soaked fenugreek sprouts
alternated with cilantro teas as a base foliar for plants I've acquired that I knew had mites -
they've never spread off those plants and were effectively eradicated, never had mites in the
garden.

Cytokinin Functions
A list of some of the known physiological effects caused by cytokinins are listed below.
The response will vary depending on the type of cytokinin and plant species (Davies,
1995; Mauseth, 1991; Raven, 1992; Salisbury and Ross, 1992).
● Stimulates cell division.
● Stimulates morphogenesis (shoot initiation/bud formation) in tissue culture.
● Stimulates the growth of lateral buds-release of apical dominance.
● Stimulates leaf expansion resulting from cell enlargement.
● May enhance stomatal opening in some species.
● Promotes the conversion of etioplasts into chloroplasts via stimulation of
chlorophyll synthesis.

malted barley - best enzymes
In my minimal research I found pilsner, distillers and wheat malt have the highest enzyme
levels. Not sure which are available as organic, or if it makes much difference.
by the way, when making a sprout tea do i need to remove the seed husks before i puree them?
No need to remove anything, just sprout (about the length of the seed - not all the way out),
puree, I strain it, and water. Add some aloe and silica if you have it available.

 

You will have to dry it before you grind it up. I have done this by just placing the sprouts on a cookie sheet next to the heater blower for a day or two. I tried to grind it wet once and it made a paste that I am sure would attract pests. For corn I just sprout the seeds, then mix em up in the bender with a small amount of water. Then add more water, and water it in. The drying is just a pain in the ass.
cheers
os

 

I do the same as you do with popcorn and rye seed. The malted barley I get, I grind to powder and top dress. I like the fact it's less work.

 

I actually gave up on using the corn teas. I haven't really noticed a down side to not using it. In fact I don't use any teas anymore at all. I just grind up malted barley and mix it with vmc and top dress. Doesn't get much easier. I am convinced that if everything in the soil is on point, teas just confuse the soil, microbe life, and the plant. Just water for me.
cheers
os

 

Same here. I actually decided to grow the leftover organic popcorn this year, to pop and eat. I used up my rye seed baking bread this winter.

 

6 row only?

You can use any malted grain in my experience. They all work. I brew beer and have lots on hand that I've tried with success.

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6 row contains more enzymes. But, 2 row will work fine.

 

Ohh, I use six row because I had a ton leftover from my brewing days.

I just meant that's all I use. If I had 2 row, I'd use 2 row.

I have watched Os change and evolve with his methods, so I try and pay attention to how he's doing things now, and I do similar, if not exact.
Why reinvent the wheel?

One difference, I still do a pair of alfalfa foliar sprays per grow. My control plant is visibly smaller with less branching last grow, and current grow. However these are f1 plants, and have so much genetic variability this is hardly scientific.
It also gives me something to do. Water only can be a little boring