C99s: End of Wk 1, pistil balls initiating, major defol (all fan leaves removed, except 2-3 at tips), mains pulled outward and swirl started, bottom laterals pulled inward. Notice light (1000w) penetration vs previous pics. Will start training inner tips as week goes on. Expect noticeable pistil development this coming week.
Here are outside C99 sisters, cloned same time as the two above. Cindys above have had 4 major defols, these have had none. The mains are currently staked to ground; pic angle distorts sizes; all four about same size.
Big pipes, evenly distributed provide max water & nutes upward/carbos out & down. Flat plant top, spread as wide and even as possible, exposes maximum budsites to light and airflow. Hi intensity light, as close as possible without burning, provides max coverage and penetration. This is what happens at 4.5 wks at swirled cola tips: As they lay almost flat, the attachment points on the cola buds start to stretch for light, becoming much larger than if they were vertical, some even become their own multi-bud colas. Now multiply that by 8 mains with at least 7 separate cola tips, per plant. Swirled Scroglines It’s all about big pipes, flat tops, and maximum light.
This is the key for sure. Whether its Scrogging or Mainlining, the goal is to lay everything as flat as possible (like a table top as you say) forcing the bud sites to stretch for light much more than if they were in a vertical position. This, coupled with almost equal light for all bud sites, is what makes these training methods so efficient & effective. I don't know if I will get as good as you are at mainlining, but once I have my tent set-up I'm going to give it my best shot!
Jh As the heckler who is no longer a member was insisting, these are not VERBATIM mainlines. The important part for me is the mainline plumbing. There probably are some VERBATIM scrog guys who would object to using tbat term here, too. The important part for me is the scrog-like flat top. And there are plenty who would want to argue about the best light. The important part for me is getting one that provides plenty of light in the desired wavelengths. It’s not rocket science. Anyone who can grow pot, can do what i’m doing. Enjoy!
As I said to that heckler, there is more than one way to skin a cat. There is nothing wrong with taking a proven methodology and adapting it to your own situation, using the parts that work for you and changing certain others that maybe do not. I totally agree that growing pot is not rocket science, but there are many more variables than most realize and it takes a lot of flexibility & persistence to do it well. You do it very well, and I (hopefully) am headed in that same direction.
Put a set of these lowriders on your bucket, get some 360 degree rotation going, and bombard every budsite with photons. My girls get 180 rotation daily.
Very clever! Obviously you cannot nail/screw the circular piece of wood to the bottom of the bucket as there is water in it, did you glue it or use some other way to attach it? Maybe a dumb question, but is a plastic bucket sitting on the nylon floor of a tent that hard to rotate on its own? I know its very heavy to lift with several gallons of water in it, but to just rotate while on the floor---is it difficult?
The bottom of these standard buckets have a 1/8-1/4” indent/lip. 1gal water=8lbs. No need for any glue/attachment. Do an experiment with/without wheels/rollers, see which is quicker, easier, and less risky...spinning is just the beginning of what these can do for you. I’ve done it, and i’m convinced. Just trying to help.
Didn't really think about the weight holding it on, but that combined with the indent would definitely do it. I am not questioning the validity of using wheels (especially since I have not grown with 5+ gallon buckets in a tent), but I have 7 gallon pots outside sitting on plastic trays that are somewhat heavy and I rotate them quite easily. However they are definitely not as heavy as several gallons of water, and if you need to move the buckets around the tent at all those wheels would be a godsend! I have not seen that exact type, are they available at any good hardware store? Is that 3/4" plywood you screwed them into?
Start at post 9069, SSS thread. 1” stainless transfer bearings (amazon), 5/8” plywood, wood screws shorter than 5/8”, saw & screwdriver, elbow grease.
9 months ago, long before I found this great thread! Are these the ones you used: I noticed in the discussion that Steak said you could attach them directly to the bottom of the bucket with screws and seal with aquarium silicone, but as you replied that still risks a possible leak down the road. If I wanted to put holes near the bottom of my buckets for the air pump hoses I guess the best way would be to fill the holes with some kind of rubber grommet that would seal the hose and not leak (as opposed to using silicone)? Have you done that, and where is the best place to find a grommet that will hold a standard 1/4" air hose and form a waterproof seal?
Yep, the ones. Re gromets: i avoid holes below waterline in my res; murphy lives in my growroom. Steak has them in his res, check in with him.
Ah Murphy's Law---it has paid me a visit on more than one occasion! I am considering that methodology though because it is very clean & neat. Steak---can you tell me what size & type you used and how you assured an airtight seal?
I realized that right after I posted it, and put the question in the SSS thread (referencing the photo he posted showing where he did it in his new set-up).
Those beauties are pressing up against the side of the tent and against each other in the center, by the time this grow is done you may need the Jaws of Life to pry them out! About 3 weeks or so until harvest?
Nice job. Pretty much the same way I shape the girls, down to the defoliation, but smaller plants and not a true mainline. Currently doing 12 in my 4x4 but next run is 6 bigger plants