What’s up everyone, I need some help. I’m having trouble with my water and nutrients. I’m using roots organic soil and nutrients. I’ve been using tap water and letting it aerate overnight so the chlorine evaporates. My tap water is 2-300 ppm and 7-7.5 ph usually. So everytime I add ph down to try and get it lower than 6.5 my ppms jump over 1,000. Keep in mind I only mix 1 gallon at a time because I only have one plant. So is that the problem? That it’s only one gallon? Can I resuse water days later after using ph down? I had issues on my last run at the end of flower. Like lockout/deficiency type stuff. So I started investigating my water, what do you guys think Thanks I’m advance
if you're using phosphoric acid it would certainly add to your ppm (and P). i use citric acid if i want to mess with water ph which is rare unless i'm experimenting with something. it may add to ppm but it wouldnt be much as it's the weakest of the strong acids.
Interesting! Thanks for the reply, I just ordered some earth juice ph down, hopefully this helps me out
kewl. fwiw the earth juice ph down is made from citric acid. idk if it's 100% citric acid or if it's combined with something else to form a larger crystal but you can find 100% citric acid in the grocery store for ~$5 lb and it's 100% pure ca. depending on water hardness and ph as little as 1/16th of a teaspoon will treat a gallon of water. it does for me. a 1lb sack ought to last a hobby grower a decade or so. example: Alpha Chemicals - Citric Acid look for it, and many other pure chemicals from alpha chemical, on azon.
Right on! It says it’s 100% on their website. I liked that it came in crystal form and not a liquid, seems like that would make it easier for me to get accurate dosages. But I guess we shall see. I just transplanted into a bigger pot, the roots were clinging onto the fabric pot so I had to cut the roots a little. I hope it bounces back
Ya pH down needs to be organic and unless you have hard water don't bother with the pH the organic practices take care of the ph that's the beauty. This is how I understand it. But I am learning myself and it sounds too good to be right. But I am happy with it as my aim. Sent from my TA-1020 using Tapatalk
If you are running true organics where the microbes & fungi are breaking down raw organic materials and working symbioticly with your roots then it is not necessary to PH your solutions. It all depends on soil life. If you’re using chelated bottled nutrients and your water source is out of ideal range id say 7.5 and up imo you should probably PH with organic product like the earth juice ph down or like somone already suggested citric acid. Ive used lime nd lemon juice to ph for cloning in my living organic setup i do not ph any waterings or teas. Dolomite lime,crustacean meal, oyster shell,clam shell, can all be incorporated into the soil to act as ph buffer. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I never have checked ppms if water after ph up or down. My water is 550 ppm. I have measured a few feeds at 1450 or so. Never has been a problem. I go and slurry and generally see 300 ppm next feed Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Very good point. That’s what I’ve been confused about this whole time. Because what I’ve seen and read is that they add amendments in the soil beforehand and just add water in true real organic growing. So with roots organic everyone tells me the soil will last like three weeks and then start feeding with bottle nutes which is not really the whole point behind organic growing. If I could go true organic and make my own super soil I would but I only have two little plants so not worth it in my opinion at the moment. Hopefully this new ph down will help get my ppm down. I do not like these bottle nutes and haven’t had much luck with them. When I was just doing teas and coconut water everything was good for the most part
happy to help you get started in the right direction GiMiKs Library of Organic Gardening PDF Files. it took him/us a good many years to get it figured out. there's the knowledge capital store. i think every successful cannabis blogger on the net has been through here reading this compilation. the foundational knowledge for soil science (organic only or not) starts with cation exchange capacity, or cec. start there first and move on to humic substances/soil organic matter (som). once you get that foundation built add the 16 basic plant nutrients, add water, and 'leave it the fuck alone' (litfa). once you get your SECOND successful grow curing in the jars move on to other so-called advanced organic techniques. basics first and the basics start with cation exchange capacity. you get that right - understanding soil chemistry - and everything else falls perfectly into place like a well designed architectural masterpiece. water-only. guarantee it!