My only healthy plant is getting some sort of rot. It only goes a 1/4in above the rockwool cube, but it is drastically thinner. The stem above the rotting part is 2-3 times as thick and healthy looking, compared almost black are below it. the roockwool always seems to be wet looking too. dwc - plants in small roockwool cubes with hydroton underneath and around. temps 69-82, 24/0 lights Questions are, how do you think it happened? and how do i fix it? Thanks
the plant as a whole looks healthy, the roots are white and the leaves are fine. I don't know why the rockwool is always wet the rest of the plants have dry cubes. Is there any way to fix this?
I removed as much of the rockwool as i could without hurting the roots, and clipped the one section of the roots that looked bad(tap root) thoughts?
F*CK!!! I was hoping someone would correct him not agree... I can take clones but it seems to be doing fine and is getting bigger in fact. Should i wait?
I dont think you have any choice but to wait, you have removed the problem. recovery will depend on how bad it was.
from what i've read damping off only happens to seeds but this was a clone. plant still looks good, never could find a pic that looks even close though.
There is a member here named Lumper Dawgz......he is like a professor or something, you should pm him and get his take on it......he has worked on and studied the effects of organic treatments for prevention of these fungal problems. In some of his posts he talks of innoculating plants with worm compost teas that kill and prevent fungus. You can find a lot of his work in the organics forum......or do a search for his posts. Good luck on your girl, he hopefully can help you out.
W.A. Grower I'm sorry that I can't offer you much hope. There is no effective treatment for 'stem rot' or 'damping off' - the only thing that 'might' help (and I'm parsing my words specifically so as to not give you any false hope) would be to use 4 stakes at 12:00 - 3:00 6:00 9:00 (like a clock) taped to the side of the container and use these stakes with string, wire, jute, whatever to help support the plant, i.e. lessen the strain/stress on the trunk. It's a shot in the dark and little else. It's one of the few plant conditions caused by bacteria (X. pelargonii specifically) vs. fungus (powdery mildew, black rust, et al). Bacterial infections are always more difficult to control and eliminate in any organism - thats why it's easier to treat athlete's foot (fungai) vs. Syphilis (bacteria) In commercial nurseries this condition is caused by the roots being damaged during transplanting - especially when working with rooted cuttings (the term 'clone' is a stoner term, i.e. rooted cuttings are anything but a clone). I would probably suggest that you review all of your procedures with regard to sanitation in your process of rooting cuttings. One thing that you mentioned gave me a pause and was this from you post: What problems are you other plants showing? Are they also in rockwool cubes? What type of nutrients are you running in your DWC configurations? I assume it's probably not organic-based, correct? In soil using conventional fertilizers (i.e. mineral salts, sulfates, etc) over-fertilizing plants (especially plants grown in containers) leads to higher rates of infection. But you folks running hydro seem to have those kinds of issues resolved from what I understand. I only did hydroponics one time - 22 years ago and it was an unmitigated disaster. Sorry I don't have much help. LumperDawgz
Yes, many of the people here are correct, and you should attempt any cuttings you can get before the problems progress. I would give you some +rep LumperDawgz but it does not allow me to. You could not be more correct, which is why I do not do hydroponics myself. I have done it, not that it was a disaster, but that it really did not seem to make much difference other than maybe a little better growth rate. I did not see any other of the more important qualities; such as: potency, flower density, shorter flowering periods, etc... less
lessismore When I attempted hydroponics 'way back when' there was no internet. About the only choices for nutrients were General Hydroponics, Dyna-Gro (and their Dyna-Bloom) and Eco-Grow (which was a powder line of products). There were only a couple of books - one by George Cervantes (now known as 'Jorge' which is pronounced as follows: 'Whore? Hey!') and he owned a grow store (one of the very first in the country) over in Southeast Portland. He was my 'guide' to learn how hydroponics worked. He's also the idiot that to this day recommends that you 'bake your soil' to kill all of the bacteria and fungai in the soil. Yep - he's definitely my 'go to guy' for growing information. Peace LumperDawgz
Bake the soil???? I have done this, however only when using soil I gathered from outdoors, and then I added live microrganisms when I mix the soil w/ other additives. Was not fond of the whole process and stick to the Fox Farm soils, I am really happy w/ the Happy Frog, and Ocean Forest has never let me down either. As for hydro, I jumped on the band wagon b/c everyone said it made the plants grow faster, made the flowers more dense and more potent, etc... My experience was that I gained better yields from soil and my bud density was just as good if not better, and the potency was no different. There may be a somewhat faster growth rate, but the flowering times are the same and I did not see where the hydro system made anything more potent. I did a side by side using 2 old strains; one was Neville's Seed Bank Pluton 2, the other was a West Coast strain called Kryptonite. I honestly did not see much difference when it came to potency or flower production. You possess alot of knowledge and truly appreciate your input on these forums. It is nice to see honest and sensible replys. less
W.A. grower Hopefully this won't bore you too much so here goes. Problems having to do with bacteria and fungal infections are the result of 'anaerobic' versions of these microbes. These are the types of 'germs' which cause illness in organisms. Aerobic microbes are the good guys and they're much stronger and reproduce at much faster rates. This is shown when brewing AACT (active aerated compost teas) and by providing oxygen in huge amounts into the tea, the aerobic microbes explode and wipe out the anaerobic agents. When you apply these teas onto the branches, leaves, stems, everything you can see - top and bottom, i.e. drench the plant - the aerobic microbes that you grew in the tea form colonies and destroy the bad guys. The plant absorbs these microbes and fights the bad guys in the heart of the plant. Powdery mildew (fungai) and stem rot (bacteria) are systemic meaning that treating the manifestation of the problem is a fool's errand. It's like if you had a bacterial infection in your blood system which you're not aware of and you get a scrape and it gets seriously infected. If you just treat the 'sore' and it goes away, the problem still is there waiting for another opportunity to infect the host body. Taking cuttings from a plant which has these microbes in its system only continues the problem cycle and cycle. If you live near Yelm, Washington you can pick-up these teas at Yelm's Earthworms. I know the gentleman who designed their machine and I know the quality of their earthworm castings and therefore the quality of the AACT that they brew up. If you're anywhere near Portland and you have a medical card, I will be more than happy to brew up 3 or 4 gallons for you. You MUST used these teas within 4 hours once the aeration devices are removed from the tea. A single application is all that is usually required. This will NOT interfere with the hydroponic growing processes/nutrients that you're currently using. These teas are not a nutrient or fertilizer in any way. They are inoculation agents and I can guarantee you that it's the only effective permanent cure for powdery mildew which as you know is a mother of a problem in the PNW. These teas are equally effective in fighting anaerobic bacteria, protozoa, nematodes in addition to anaerobic fungai. You need to get this infection out of your plant/cutting cycle, IMHO HTH LD
Thanks anyway but i live in north snohomish county. I use a beneficial microorgamisms with mycorrhizal fungus http://www.planetnatural.com/site/image.html?sku=oregonism-xl I have an air pump in my rez and the water is hooked up via float valve. I also inoculated the grow container with the microorganisms to treat the slimy root rot that this plant had. It recovered and grew many new roots. I cut the rotted brown root off. The plant now looks healthy and is growing well. I know it there might be no point to it but i will take a few clones when it gets bigger. I can't loose this strain Thanks for all the help
I am no good at cloning(3 out of 30?) and the mother was sickly. I have two other plants that have established root systems, two plant don't have roots, and one is a dry twig in rockwool The other two clones are just not as fast in growth and the "one healthy" plant had roots way before the others. The worst part is all the colnes came from one plant, from one guy, who no longer grows The strains are Kind and some seeds he smuggled from jamacia I do have a lot of seeds from my first grow where my plant self pollinated, but I don't know how close the the original it will be.