Low/high stress training

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by toptopper, Aug 4, 2013.

  1. Well i began growing for my first time and i learned about low and high stress training to grow a more bush like plant rather then an unproductive tree shaped one. my first two where easy to know that it was time for training because they where about 10 inchs long, i read that about the fourth or fifth node up signifies the beginning of training but this plant i started from a seed seems to be much more dense by the first several nodes, should i wait until its roots grab better or start training this early? Any opinions are highly considered, i have only just scratched the surface of learning about cannabis growing. Thanks!


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  2. #2 Rumpleforeskin, Aug 4, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2013
    First thing is to establish your max harvest height. This will make sure you get the most from your grow space.
    Place a screen at the half way point (half of your max harvest height). Chicken wire or stucco lath.
    A pvc frame and legs will make a great place to hold your screen.
    As the fast tops push through the screen, pull them to a hard to reach hole in the screen. Keep doing this until all the holes are filled with a top..
    Don't top or fim your plant.
  3. i only have 12 plants that need training, is this still a good method? plus i only have about 4 feet to work with. here's the layout 

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    Most of the pictures I post are from a single plant grow and harvest. I have a few runs that I did two plants but one plant is what I do most. It is not uncommon to get 12+ ounces from a single plant if done correct.
    How much light do you have for them twelve plants?
  6. Its a 1000watt high output. I have a second one in there but its not on because the small tent would hold the heat and get up to 98 degrees... but with all the reflective surface and how close the light is the plants aren't having an issue with it as you can probably tell by the density of the plant shown above. Is your method still good for me if I have sativas and only 4feet of grow height considering sativas can grow up to 3x more in flowering?
  7. #7 Rumpleforeskin, Aug 5, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2013
    You don't need a lot of light to get that kinda of growth during veg, but everything will change once you switch to flowering. Every plant and branch will compete for the light. You need to find a way to get even growth and light coverage for all your plants. Not only that, the more tops your plants makes the more high quality bud it will produce.
    So how do you get even light and more tops without stress?
    I noticed you have a mixed bag and different plant times. This will make it tough to get the most out of your light.. Your harvest height (3.5'-4' from what you said) will be about the same regardless of strain because you can't go any higher even if you wanted to.
    My White Widow (best strain if you ask me), does 75% of it's growth during flowering. Not everyone who grows this strain will have the same growth rate and stretch as I do. It wants to grow 9' high or more, so I have to make the switch to flowering real early
    Day One With Rooted Clone:
    Day Ten of Veg and Day One of Flowering:

    17 Days Later:
    With your mixed bag, you will get lots of different growth rates and will need to keep your lamp adjusted to your highest top unfortunately. Half way through flowering you will have one or two plants getting enough light, the others will not produce a quality product or much of it.
    What I would do and what you will do, will probably be two different things. Sometime you have to learn the hard lessons and see results with your own eyes (it was this way with me). The problem with that is wasted months.
    I would make a separate veg/mum room with a few CFLS and little box fans, or partition off the tent. I would select all the plants of the same height and same strain and get set to flower the ones you have the most of. The rest I would set under a few CFLS until the flower room opens up. Make sure to take cuttings and clones every plant before you flower (will make things ten times faster next time round).
    Unknown strains or first time in your grow room should be flowered early. You have no idea the growth rate, and you don't want a ten foot tall plant in your tent. Take notes and make adjustments the next time you grow from that clone. You 2nd grow with that clone will get you much closer to your target harvest height.
    So my answer is yes. My method (the method I use is not my invention by a long shot) will work for you. In my opinion SCROG is the best method of low stress training for indoor tent and closet growing.
  8. Yeah I actually have that reflective black out tent with the 1000watt ho. Just for veg, then I have 2 more 1000 watt ho bulbs/ballas just for my flowering room which is about 2 feet bigger in every direction except hieght it has another 1/2 foot. So as they are ready they will move into a better temp circulated room with more light and more room onto at 12/12 schedual. So they should be able to get there individual care I hope. If I do that should I put the screen up in mid grow space during veg and move it with the plants for flowering? Or what do you recomend?

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    Wow, that is a great question. I would place the plants in the flower room when the top is a few inches over a screen that is placed at 50% of your target harvest height. Pull the top off to one side and keep doing it over the first few weeks of flowering. It will cause mass growth of the lower branches.
  10. awesome awesome. lol. thx for all the great info btw. just a few more questions:b ok so before the plant even gets high enough for the screen do i do anything to it? and by "pull the top off to one side" do you mean that the first hole it reaches should be one that causes it to bend? sort off like lst with tieing to the pot but without as much stress? and i think i will do as you said and move it into my flowering room somewhat early but the good news is they are switchable ballas' so i can technically have it as the second veg room until they are ready to flower. your being a huge help!!! lol
  11. Also most questions came to mind...What size pot do you keep those in to make it so you can continue there growth thru flowering? atm i have been going from there seed cups, so a 3L pot to a 2.5G pot and it seems like they would outgrow the 2.5G by flowering time. do you keep them in a 5G? oh, and that foil on the top of the pot facing the underside of the plant....AWESOME IDEA! 
  12.  During veg, you can get a head start developing more tops by LST via string. Tie down the main top on young plants so it kinda looks like a horse shoe. This will stimulate the bottom branches to grow.
    I like to grow in five gallon buckets, no matter if I am doing DWC or soil.
  13. Ok. Apologies go out for my immense amount of questions. But if you do 5G containers how much water do you do per pot? My 2.5G I give them each about1.5L twice a day.
  14. How much to water in a soil grow? This is not a question anyone can answer with 100% accuracy. It is the first question I had as an indoor grower.
    On average, a good soaking twice a week. Make sure you have good drainage. But you will have to make adjustments to how often and how much. Lots of folks will tell you to not water an established plant until the soil is dried out or sucking away from the pot slightly. Then soak it until you see water coming out the bottom. Others will tell you to look to the plant for signs that water is needed (slight drooping). I found that twice a week was needed in most cases and a bit more during flowering. You will have to find the rhythm for you setup, a lot of factors come into play. You have a lot of plants, use some applied science to this question (record different water cycles for the same strain and see what she responds to best).
    Keep in mind, I grow in water (hydro) and have only helped other growers doing soil setups. I have not done one myself in ten years (with the exception of my mother plants).

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