Lockout/Deficiency getting worse

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by cherokee91red, Jul 27, 2013.

  1. What type of medium; soil or hydro? Hydro, DWC
    Indoors or outdoors? Indoor
    What strain? Sour Diesel
    How old are the plants? 7 weeks/ flowering 5
    What type of lights and how many watts? HPS 600W
    How far from the lights? 14-18"
    What is your watering frequency and source of water? RO
    What, how much and when was it fed? NPK? 23mL of probloom, 6 mL of cal-mag, 6 mL of PK 13-14 to a 5 gal res fed, 2 days ago.
    30mL of 29% h2o2 3 days before that after a flush and root clean.
    What is the medium/runoff pH and PPM if in hydro? 5.5-6, unsure of PPM's.
    What are the temps and humidity in the room? 75-85, 10%-40%
    What size pots? 5Gal
    Any bugs? Look real close. No
    Any other pertinent info? Plant has been getting steadily worse over the last week/week and a half. Started with a single leaf yellowing and dying. At the time she was under only 90W of CFL's so just attributed that to lack of light. Since then I have moved to the 600W cabinet and her condition has gotten steadily worse. First 2 or 3 leaves, then 6, then 10 are just yellowing and dying. Most are yellowing from the edge to the vein, some are curling down, some are curling up. I feel like it has to do with my roots (See pic) I just can't get them clean. H2O2 isn't working, 2 flushes didn't help, keeping temps in the res down to 65-75 this last week and the problem just continues to get worse. I know nutes help progress root rot but I can't just not feed her in hydro or there won't be any plant left. The bucket she's in now, I switched her to when I moved cabinets. The bucket and air stone were cleaned with rubbing alcohol before she went in. Oh, there is no noticeable smell coming from the roots.
    Buds are still looking good and frosty but I know if I don't fix this problem soon that situation won't continue.

     

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  2. Roots are fine, that's nute staining.... Get ph up closer to 5.8.

    Tds meter may be worth the money.
     
  3. Ok, cool. One worry off my back. Maybe I'll have some cash when the next paycheck comes around in a couple weeks but by then it will only be in time for the next round.
    Do you think I'm just under-feeding and she's starving for more? I'm at 1/5 strength on the last feed.
     
  4. Ya get that pH to 5.8. Youre on the border pH wise.

    Ppm or ec meter is important. You need to know if your nutrient solution has enough nutrients to initiate and sustain flowering.
     
  5. When your ph builds to 6 you'll be locking out P and K, you'll be slipping in Ca and Mn also. Ph should be no higher than 5.8.
     
  6. I'm using drops instead of an electronic meter. I just have to eye it up as close as I can, usually drop it to 5.5 and let it rise to 6 and drop it back. That's about as accurate as I can get with just the color chart.
     
  7. Precisely why I prefer soil, the strips is all I use indoors. The bulk of my medicine is grown outdoors. I had 12 girls out of about 24 that were four months of age by the 15th of May and when I planted them outdoors they were flowering immediately, done harvested most of them, got a few late bloomers. You would do well to get the proper instruments if you continue to do hydro.
     
  8. and that probably causes pH swings for the plant.
     
    pH your feed water and let it stand for a few hours then pH again and adjust if necessary, repeat
     
  9.  
    Sorry, let me clarify, the swing from 5.5-6 takes a couple days, I'm not re-adjusting it that much in a matter of minutes or hours. I apologize if I gave that impression.
     
     
    Looking at a few topics, I can see how my plant might be exhibiting P and K deficiencies. Today when I pH'd, I brought it down to what I would consider 5 on the color chart. I'm wanting to see if maybe my color is slightly off and what I think is a pH of upper 5's might actually be low 6's.
     
  10. So today I flushed out the reservoir and noticed a ton of little root hairs floating around and a bunch of crap covering my airstone. I emptied the bucket and it was pretty dirty, fresh water 8 days ago. So 4 gals of more RO water, 15mL of calmag and ph'ed it just slightly lower than I had been at the beginning of this topic. The leaves still look bad but when its out of the HPS light it does appear better than I was thinking it was.
     
    I also attached a photo of the pH tester and liquid if anyone wants to give a second opinion on if the color looks good. Tried to just make it yellowish-orange.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Thanks for the positive advice Zombie, but I think the roots were not fine. After the cleanses, 2 flushes and some more focus on the plant there has been tremendous new root growth and a lot of the existing roots have whitened back up. I noticed some new growth 4 days ago. Tonight, you can see in the photo that the roots look much better. There is no more new yellowing and what leaves that still had a little green in them a few days ago have recovered some. Depending on how far the yellowing had progressed the leaves have either stopped getting more yellow or in a few cases some green has started to creep back towards the edges.
    Thanks for everyone who helped and checked in on this thread but I think I've come to the conclusion that my res changes were not frequent enough and in the future I will make sure to change the res every 7-10 days. Since I've been doing weekly res changes the plant has recovered and I'm hoping will continue to thrive. Anyone that wants to follow along with the rest of the grow can check out the link in my signature.
    Oh, and I took your advice, TDS meter is in the mail and will be here next week.
    DSCN6656.JPG DSCN6659.JPG DSCN6658.JPG
     
  12. I'm glad your back on track. Your right, is sounds to me like there may have been a salt build up in your root system. That flushing removed the salt and has got you back on track.
     

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