if i change the lighting spectrum does it create changes in stress in the plant. i can not find info. so say my cunt computer didnt erase what i just wrote before i had to rewrite this message because its a cunt and on the rag. if i go to say from LED to cmh to HPS or any of those combinations in shorter periods of time. say during flowering, within short periods, or at anytime really. does SWITCHING light spectrums create a nutrient deficiency or a period of time where a plant has to change over to the spectrum to process things differently creating more lag. also say blue led to red. then cmh. etc. shorter amounts of time. will a plant still just grow grow? or will it take on a period of stress and adaptation. the only beneficial ideas i could find on that kind of subject was some dudes from lithuania who discovered things in vegetables. Growing Plants with Colored Light Changes Their Nutrient Content so obviously it can most definitely adversely or not effect plants nutrient absorption and processes in some way.
i dont mean to reply for myself, but. i guess with a name like that i could say i have "rhoid rage". or tell people i just got a hemi.
Im not sure, how far into flower is it? Why do u want to change the lighting? I would say it is not a good idea to change the lighting that far into its life cycle, but who knows mabey it will be just fine, ive never done that or heard of anyone changing thier lighting in the middle of flower cycle. Good luck sir
Imo the plant will just soak up any light you got to offer her the biggest factor in hermaphrodite is poor/bad genetics.
you can find the truth on youtube, Dr Bugsbee light spectrum. I always noticed great stress going from mh to hps, But it was good stress from veg to flower. I do not notice stress going from 4000k to 3000k. Makes me think stress may be more related to source change than spectrum change. But the stress we are talking about is just a hiccup and in 4 days everybody has adjusted. The Bugsbee findings showed no difference in yield from blue to red, and really only difference in plant shape. I love my 4000k for veg and 3000k for flower.
thank you for replying i noticed a relative difference, see using LED 190 watt, switching to 315 ceramic, definitely made a boo boo period of about four to five days or more, as if the spectrum from the ceramic was too much par too quick. after that weak things green up and get better, but in the end, it almost makes me want to go full length with either leds or ceramic. they seem to be responding to my blue metal halide better during the switch, then blending the metal halide with the ceramic. then going full ceramic. its the all red spectrum i think and all blue, where as my led is kind of all purpose. as of right now i think i like the ceramic over the led. but then again, the led makes my internodes stack way way closer together than any other light source ive ever used. which, i have smaller than most peoples height to use, so i need every node i can get without stretch. originally i wanted to experiment with trying to reduce internode length during my stretch period from veg to flower. i would go before from straight leds to hps (reddish orange ones) and it made.....stacked internodes with a stretch from the stacked internodes and i thought ... no no no how do i change this. it doesnt make sense to try to make plants short only for the tops to get far away again. im going to most definitely read or watch that what you said about dr bugsbee. it sounds interesting and right up my alley. i never noticed any herms from the light changes. but what i did notice was increased stretching with more red, much less stretching in the beginning of flower using LED then switching to halide/ceramic mix (315 flowering-400watt eye blue) cut down stretching alot, but then switching over to that hardcore of a light made plants that werent ready for it (odd leafs for a minute, nutrient deficiencies etc, and sometimes just down right nasty looking plants beginning off until about four to five days later) the reason i experimented was because i wanted to stack the most nodes in the shortest space but still have the high amount of par without going full LED, because no offence, who has the money for outfitting a whole entire grow with top of the line LEDS. if i could i might. over all health between LED and ceramic/halide growth is about as green as could be, but i definitely notice more difference within the LED when stretching occurs it seems to halt it almost completely ( about 1/3 of the stretch associated with preflower to actual flower) it just seemed like an interesting category that i never hear anyone discuss or has much info on.
well you can sure see the difference in spectrum with these qb lights. The first one I bought was 3000k and it was horrible for veg. Then I bought a 4000k and it is perfect for veg. For flower I like the 3000k better. I have tried a couple of times to get over it and veg under the 3000k, but after a week I can't take it anymore. I doubt the plants care, but I do.
their has to be a sweet spot somewhere that gives everything i think. so there isnt any lag or any noticeable difference between changes
I also have a 3500k rspec that was supposed to be the full spectrum answer, and it is I suppose. It's very similar to a light I bought years ago that had a mh and an hps fixture and they ran together. But I found I prefer the specialized spectrum and switching.