light problems

 
 
Lamps are pretty simple devices as they only require the minimum required voltage to operate. They either work or don't. Technically speaking, HID lamps have a negative resistance and if the voltage was not regulated via a ballast they would draw excessive voltage from the line feed ultimately resulting in destruction of the lamp. The way the voltage is regulated is through the ballast and does the work to keep the lamp lit. I'm going to guess there's nothing wrong with the lamp if it lights. There shouldn't be anything wrong with the e-ballast ignitor as its role is to the light the lamp and go away.
 
You have two things to consider: 1) line feed, and 2) ballast output. The line feed is of course the circuit that you plug your ballast into. You should ensure this circuit is not overloaded and a maximum safe operating range of a standard circuit breaker is about 80% of the breaker value (expressed in amps). So make sure your circuit is not overloaded. Another consideration is power quality. If the incoming line feed (to the house) is fluctuating then it's possible the circuit you're plugged into is dropping voltage sufficient such that the ballast turns off. One might refer to this as a 'dirty circuit'.
 
As for item 2, ballast output, there's no easy diagnosis for an e-ballast unless you have the correct electrical and circuit testing equipment. Even testing the line feed and circuit load requires a special meter that you don't have in the tool box. It's a clip on type that just hangs on the wire and reads volts and amps.
 
I don't know if this helps or not. I'm just    ... and shooting the shite mate. It's probably the ballast bottom line.  ... just MO.  
 
Dadgum e-ballast. I still like the magnetic. Simple design, easy to troubleshoot, and 100% replaceable parts.

 

Same here AFA the magnetic ballasts. Had a boatload at work and only 3 go bad in 19 years and those were fixed by replacing the capacitor.

The digitals just never impressed me all that much.

Wet

 

Hydrofarms carries a bare bone hps ballast for <$200 @1000w. A 600w is $20 or so less. There are several brands out there. There might (operative word) be slight difference in how it is packaged as a unit but a mag ballast has 3 operating parts: coil, capacitor, and ignitor. Diagnosing why one doesnt operate properly is easily performed with a multimeter.

Look hard and close at these no frill mag ballasts. There's no reason to spend more.... anymore. Cheers!

 

No idea. I ordered mine out of a "Sinsemilla Tips" magazine in early 1987. I think from Dansco, but really don't remember and there is no brand or label on them.

The only thing I can suggest is to make sure the coil is copper and not aluminum wire. The funny thing is that NOS (new old stock), is usually more expensive than recent manufacture. Mainly because of the quality of components and the Made in USA bit.

Let me dig through some old bookmarks and such.

Wet

 

 
 
Don't forget that the lamp cord set needs to fit the output side of your ballast so make sure that is the case.

 

Having lamp problems myself. 400w HPS magnetic. Huge power surge took out the ignitor a few weeks back. Last couple days we have been having small quick power blips. Must of had another last night while the light was on. This morning it was off and won't start back up. Ordered another ignitor and a whole new ballast kit just in case. I guess its time to also install a UPS or maybe a Titan delay timer? Date inside the ballast says it about 14 years old now.