LED UFO G3 Grow Light

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by ganjaman10, Jan 10, 2011.

  1. Idk, but I scratch my head at how much they charge for theses LED platforms. I mean, LEDs have been around since the early 60s, and haven't changed much since.

    So why is putting 50 - 100 of these things on a piece of plastic so expensive?! They probably average 10 cents retail, so 2 cents wholesale per LED. I don't get it...
     
  2. 1 plant, thats it.
     
  3. Good point.. its because the idea they are new! haha
     
  4. You can find some good videos of these lights on YouTube. However this particular light you speak of I just purchased from HTG Supply and it bright as hell. I should be getting my new light meter tomorrow to test it. I plan to have it above 4 plants with a couple cfls as well. The construction on this light is good and seems to have a good cooling system built in. If you compare the price to others you find on the web its a pretty good deal. Also its an american store with a warranty. If you have any other questions let me know.
     

  5. How is this light doing? I am considering it.
     
  6. Let me know how this goes man.
     
  7. I am also really interested in knowing how well these lights perform as I just found them and appear to have quite a good price, but do not want to blow all my money on LED's when I should have just gotten an HPS.

    If anyone else has information about grows with these lights I would greatly appreciate the input.
     
  8. I just sprouted my seedlings and will keep you posted on how this light performs. Sorry for the delay. Didn't quite start when I was expecting to.
     
  9. If its half decent it will be fine for both veg and flower. I would supplement with some cfl's. I imagine WITH the cfl's you could grow 2 plants with good results. I can fit 4 small plants under my 180w led easily.
     
  10. [FONT=&quot]Led grow lights are best idea for Hydroponic Gardening.[/FONT]I think we can grow 1 plant.These lights produce less heat
     


  11. Those eBay specials can't be trusted due to the lack of quality equipment used in the construction of the lamp. They don't use top BIN LED's when they mass produce lamps like this, most likely Chinese made LED's. They just don't emit that much light and they produce all sorts of heat, known to increase the ambient temps by 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Most of the "quality" lights will run you several hundred dollars US. Most of the grows that I've seen that accomplished 1-2 grams per watt emitted (not consumed, each driver will act differently..some will be 80% efficient others can be 94% efficient when pushed past the recommended voltage with lower amperage, 500-650mA) were by LED arrays built by the grower him/herself. These arrays can be customized to suit anything the grower needs as he/she can install any number of lighting frequencies in any pattern and ratio.

    What does this all mean?

    Light emitting diodes are the future.

    When the technology, and availability, reaches a certain point the HPS lamps will be a thing of the past. Every six months there is another advancement in LED technology and a new BIN being produced. At this point the cost of replacing large setups isn't economical, only the small guy will benefit from this technology today.

    :smoke:
     

  12. While you can change the voltage suppled to your LEDs, you can not reduce the amperage. LEDs are going to pull whatever they are rated for...

    -Loki
     

  13. That is an incorrect statement, sir. Ask anyone who has built an array, "what is the minimum and maximum drive your setup will handle, in mA?"

    You will be very surprised by the answer.

    Something along the lines of necessary forward voltage, radiant heat sink or active cooled will play a role here, along with the total number of LED's that are being driven. Most LED's will produce their listed output (W) between 350mA and 1000mA. Reds tend to max out around 650mA, generally 1.4W (this is all on a case by case basis as one BIN will act completely different from the next). Whites and blues like to be driven harder, about 750mA (again, BIN dependent).

    When constructing a custom LED array, it is suggested to drive your reds separate from the whites and blues.

    Greater heat dissipation = less LED's driven harder

    Lesser heat dissipation = more LED's driven softer

    A pulse width modulator can be used to increase voltage...this is a very bad idea.

    :poke:
     
  14. I doubt I'd be surprised. I can and have used a multimeter to measure the current drawn by an LED and an array of LEDs as I varied the voltage. You've never actually built an LED array, have you?

    -Loki
     
  15. This is just non-sense... If your LEDs have the same specs, there is no diferrence between colors. Colors have nothing to do with the electrical properties...

    -Loki
     

  16. Click this link:

    LED Driver Circuit (HPD015B-F7040) - Semicon Optronics Channel Corporation

    Answer this question:

    What is the minimum and maximum output current that driver will handle?

    :poke:
     
  17. There's a diference between what a something is rated for and what it will actually draw in real life... You've got a multimeter, right? Try it for yourself...

    -Loki
     


  18. Hmm..something leads me to believe you don't have very relevant knowledge on this subject.

    Osram has a plethora of information on their products. If you were to study a few of the .pdf files they have free for download you will see that the reds will act completely differently than the blues and whites due to the different materials used in their individual construction.

    You will also notice 1W, 2W, 3W, and 5W by many manufacturers. Each of these will be designed differently using different materials to achieve the angle, wavelength and overall output.

    :poke:
     
  19. Something leads me to believe you have no knowledge of LEDs or electrical engineering... You just keep talking out your ass...

    -Loki
     

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