Turns out I had an IR thermometer from cooking buried in my kitchen. Hitting 78-81F LST, so I’m very happy with my heater right now. Sadly the humidity has plummeted so I’m outside ideal VPD, but I’m week 2 of flower so I’ll take it as a blessing for now
I came across the original vid with the guys from hlg talking about temps and explaining calmag def. Actually some interesting other led info as well. It’s a Dude Grows clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mYSLdB3ts Cheers Os
Holy shit, I’m a believer. I’m speechless to how important and spot-on your “pull down” recommendation is, coupled with your other statements about leaf temperature. I just finished Teaming With Microbes, and almost done with Teaming with Nutrients (Jeff Lowenfels). Second book is some deep deep shit (in layman’s terms, no math ) and corroborates the root draw of food by transpiration. Your method and reasoning is Word bro. Pulling that warm air down over the canopy is the only way I can get my LST up. I’m reading that the leaf temp should be optimal about 2 decrees below air temperature. My air is already 84, and leaf temp is only seventy something (I posted it but forgot). Pulling that warm air down is golden. So thank you Sensi <——- spelling intentional Awesome little write up that includes the explanation of the mechanism of just one of the enzymes required for photosynthesis, and that that enzyme is temperature sensitive (and likely temperature efficient): https://manicbotanix.com/leaf-surface-temperature-lst-in-hydroponic-growing/#:~:text=Optimum LST A 2017 study found that the,applies both to ambient air and leaf temperatures. Better Gardening With Research,
And basically that scavenged heat is free and already there just begging to be used. Living in the sub arctic I look at heat with different eyes than a lot of folks. Cheers Os
U saying ya intakes at top and filter out is at bottom then? To increase leaf surface temperature nd increase nodal growth?
What the Organic Sensi was pointing out is that the enzymes in the leaf work best at leaf temperature of 80ish degrees. Not sure what nodal growth means, but the plant leaf engines kick into turbo mode around this leaf temp. Every thing manufactured by the leaf cells really cranks around that temperature because the enzymes work best at that temp. Leaf surface temperature supports the case of blades using MH bulbs as I believe those spectrums cause the LST to increase as well as the ambient temperature to increase. As it turns out, I raised my light and cranked it up full power (630 AC watts), added a fan to blow DOWN and across my light, and my leaf temperatures are now around 80. I haven’t noticed an increase in water use like I expected, but my leaf temps are now in the sweet spot. We’ll see how it makes colas. The Sensi could probably say it better with less words.
Well said. So glad it works for ya. @2cent420 In tents with leds, suck the air out the bottom, passive intake up high. This raises both leaf temp and soil temp. Cheers Os
Thought so. And humidity isn't an issue on the filter ? I run my filter in a hvac so it's outside tent to achieve this i just swap over my pipes top notch bottom. Temps are really 21c with this cool winter atm so guess it we'd help also keep soil moulds out the other way. Carbon filter at bottom... would it reduce heavy co2 or allow more to drop over plants at intake as abbosed to sucking up.....hmmmm Again the rule carbon goes at top is as heat rises... and we wanted to eliminate it with hps ...now we want it....had the rule changed
It will probably lower your humidity sucking out the bottom, but the temps being warmer is more important IMO. Your plants don’t get infrared radiation from leds, like they do from hps. Pulling the warm air down will help them feel warmer, and should even raise the soil temp. As far as CO2, I don’t know what effect pulling out the bottom will have. I can’t see it being an issue. Try it out and see what happens. Give it a fair shake, monitor the environmental factors and change it back if you don’t like it. Cheers Os