Leaves curling in multiple directions

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by grnthmbs, Jul 17, 2017.

  1. I've posted several times related to this issue and have adjusted the cal-mag (added lime into the soil to raise the ph) and transplanted into FF Happy Frog soil a week ago. I am running two CFL bulbs that are 5000K 1600 lumens total. I'm watering only when the pot is super dry/airy with no nutes considering I just transplanted into nutrient rich soil. My temps are between 75-82 max when the lights are on and closer to 70 when the lights are off. I have a small fan blowing up towards the light putting indirect wind onto the plant itself. My space is about 1x1.5x2.5' (have a 4x2x5 tent on the way for when my plant outgrows my homemade box). The walls of the box are lined with aluminum foil which I now know can cause hot spots on the leaves and needs to be changed asap. Even thought I've made these changes my problem still exists, so I'm hoping for other opinions on what may be the cause of this issue?
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  2. be patient the leaves that are fuct likely won't come back. you've made necessary changes and the top newest growth actually looks like it's supposed to. make sure it's now over watered or under.and the runoff ph and ec are in range and then wait for it to become a pot plant again.

    GFP

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  3. I feel like I may have a drainage issue as well after doing some reading about signs of this. My soil is still moist on the bottom after 5 days (visibly through drainage holes). I read that if it stays moist 5 days or longer that means there are drainage problems. Is there a way I can correct this now without having to transplant again even though she isn't ready to be transplanted?


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  4. Don't water your plant until you can lift the container and feel NO weight. If you feel weight, you're feeling water still contained in the soil. Once a plant gets repotted, it takes several days for the roots to reset and it to get back growing above ground again. Just be patient and stay away from nutes since you're in fresh soil. It will take it some time, but it should recover. Need to make sure the pH of your Water and Feeds (when the time comes to feed) are in the correct range for soil (6.3 to 6.7). It makes a huge difference in the growth of your plant and it's health overall. If the pH is right on the water going in and you're using a good quality soil, don't worry so much about the runoff pH. There's a special way you're supposed to check that anyway rather than just checking it straight out of the bottom of the pot. But I've found if the range is right on your water and food going into the plant, the runoff isn't such a big issue. Your soil pH should always be 7.0...neutral. Bagged grow soils have that covered already. TWW
     
  5. I pH'd my plain water today at 6.4/6.5 and have watered once (4 days ago) since a transplant 9 days ago. New growth has been showing up; however it dies shortly after developing into a mature leaf (browns and curls under). I will look further into checking the runoff pH since you are saying there is a special method to this before I worry about checking mine. Can I increase the drainage in this plants soil without damaging the plant? If so, how? I have perlite on hand to mix into the soil I'm just not sure how to go about that with it already planted.


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  6. Ph for soil is 6.5 to 7.2 Dude. Boycott what the white widow says. She's wrong all the time on here.

    GFP

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  7. I'll heed that advice and proceed. Can you answer my aeration question?


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  8. I need a pic of what your looking at exactly. I can kinda picture it in my head but I'd still be guessing.
    GFP

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  9. [​IMG]

    So that's the plant (very small for the container I feel like) and the soil is taking over 5 days to fully dry. This is raising concern of root rot so I'm wondering if there's a method to add perlite into this as it sits now



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  10. and what's in that soil? have you ruled out all.pests? including mites?

    GFP

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  11. Some perlite is already in the soil. It's FF Happy Frog. And I haven't necessarily ruled out all pests; however I have thoroughly inspected the plant every day if not multiple times a day and see no gnats/mites anywhere on it


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  12. It's been just over a week of watering (2 in 12 days) with both having a ph of 6.5-6.6 no nutes. My leaves are looking a ton better but there's still signs of nutrient deficiency and the leaves are curling slightly. What could be causing this and how should I go about fixing it? Thanks for any help!

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  13. man the top of the plant looks recovered and that's what you want...the older leaves that are damaged won't really recover ..the new growth is what you want to look at...

    start feeding it 1/4 strength nutes...and make sure the run off ph (not the ph of the water going in) the runoff is 6.5 to 7.2. also looks like your spot wetting the soil which leads to dry spots ..which roots won't grow into ...I'd use a whole gallon ...run it through there thoroughly wet all the soil ..and make sue the ec level is like 1.0 and the runoff ph is 6.5 to 7.2 . it's good to range the runoff in between those 2 numbers since some elements absorb better at different ph'd. and don't worry about the damage done ...the curling could be from dry spots in the medium...OR something else....but as long as you have the right rootzone ec level AND runoff ph..you know it's back on track...be patient after that ...It'll come back strong shortly..

    GFP

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  14. Awesome, thanks for the quick response that actually addressed my question lol it can some times be difficult to get clear answers. Will update again after some time and the next watering. Also I've been turning the top half inch of soil gently as to make sure the top inch isn't staying too wet for too long (don't want any fungus gnats lol). By turning I mean very gently raking around the pot and being very very careful not to disturb any kind of roots or lower growth, this could be causing the "spot watering" look. Not to say you're wrong but I have been being very careful to water all around the plant and out to the very edge as well. I haven't been using a gallon, though. I've been watering with about 28-30 fl oz as to avoid overwatering. I would rather water a little less, a little more often than over do it and have root rot or gnats.

    Thanks again GFP, always have good, knowledgeable advice


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  15. get a 12 dollar bag of diatomaceous earth and sprinkle that a half inch thick on top of the soil!! this will kill any and all pests including gnats mites larvae and any other demon pests that land on it or go anywhere near it...it's used today as both a deterrent AND to kill everything . it acts like microscopic glass literally shredding apart larvae that gnats put Thier as they hatch as well as ALOT of other shit ...ants thrips mites ...they all can't escape.....

    this will allow you more freedom to water when you want without having demon pests fuckin you up... just make sure it drains well...a properly made.mix with perlite and adequate holes for drainage AND perlite ....cannot be overwatered as it drains fast....

    GFP

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  16. Alright I'll try that if I can find it locally. One more question, the nutes I have on hand at the moment is the Alaska Fish Fertilizer 5•1•1. Should I start at quarter strength with this or order the FF trio and start with those upon arrival?

    Thanks the help


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  17. I've also got her under a 300 watt led now instead of the cfls I was using. About how high should I have it above the canopy? Right now it's roughly 18 in above the top of the canopy and the temps are around 78 with the light on and occasionally hits 84 but no higher and it's not for a long period of time. When the light is off, the temps stay around 70-74. Everything is going smoothly and growing great, but I would like to stretch it a little if it won't hurt? She's growing new leaves in a very close/bushy proximity now. I plan on doing LST whenever it's safe to start that process.


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  18. the nutes are a matter of opinion..some will say go with fish shit ..most will say (me included) wait and go with complete nutes ..that way you know what's up...

    as the temps go 84 is the last degree possible before growth starts disfunciotning indoors...try to keep it lower than that but at THE MAX at that...the led you have can be at the height you have it ...always do the Hand warm test ...if it feels too hot within 2 seconds for your hand it's too hot for the plant...if not ..your in acceptable range..

    GFP


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  19. *Cough cough* Use coco coir mixed with perlite next time :D *cough*

    Coco coir has amazing drainage. I find it way better than soil. It isn't as compact as soil. It allows more oxygen to flow down there.
     
  20. I have already planned on trying a different medium on my next grow, and I've heard nothing but good things about coco coir. It seems to be the perfect midway point between a hydroponic setup and soil from what I understand? I haven't done much research on this medium yet as I'm still neck deep in my first grow.


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