leaves are still yellow and spotted!

What's your temp while the lights are on.

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Ok that can't be it cause that's a good temp that's where I keep mine. Its deff a nutrient deficiency looks like to me a nitrogen or boron deficiency.

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I'd say too much P and not enough N.
Nitrogen is necessary at all plant life stages, and too much phosphorous can be toxic.
If the problem started when you switched to bloom nutes, then bloom nutes are likely the problem.
I'd change to the ratios Micro=2, Grow=1, Bloom=1, CalMag=0.8, and Nothing Else, and see whether that greens up the leaves. The Micro is especially important for it N and micro-nutrients.
We MJ growers are some of the only horticulturists who stress our plants with too much P, and too little N.
There might be some nute burn too, and that can be exacerbated by lights too close.
When something goes wrong, it's hard to figure it out, because no matter what the source of stress, the plants often react in similar ways.

 

IMO that looks like text book calcium deficiency combined with a little lack of nitro. It could all be there in the medium but the plant isn't uptaking it.

Are you ph'in your feed at all? PH off can cause this problem even if it's flushed and fed cal/mag, nitro to correct it.

You should be feeding about 6.3-6.5 IMO.

How to Fix a Calcium Deficiency on Cannabis Plants | Grow Weed Easy

 

i would stop the salts ,and the cal mag i would use dry milk ratio 1 tablespoon per gallon,and also add 1 table of lime to the water just this one time with the lime should fix any ph issues you might have.than next week add compost tea for the nit.

 

I'm having problems identical to the calcium deficiency leaf picture above, on some leaves on a couple of plants. It's hydro with plenty of Calcium, proper ppm and nutes, but pH usually around 5.8, and rarely above 6.0. I believe Tbone's Ca lockout due to low pH is the best explanation for me, and probably also for you, provided you add some Nitrogen to eliminate the yellowing. I'll be trying pH closer to 6.5 for awhile, and then let it range between 5.8 and 6.5

 

I would guess ph. I had similar problems that ended up going away without me figuring it out. I suspect it was a old ph pen giving me high readings leading me to lower the ph too much. Also I had these issues mostly with hydro but soil as well.


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Depends on what ppm you want.

1 tsp micro, 1/2 tsp grow, 1/2 tsp bloom, and slightly less than 1/2 tsp CalMag per gallon of water will produce slightly more than 500 ppm when added to ro water.

Large squeeze bottles full of nutes, 1/2 tsp measuring spoons, and 1 gal jugs are convenient.

 

I don't think the leaf tips are actually burnt. They could be though since they're not feeding and you were pumping in 1200ppm. I think they're locked out and sort of caught in suspended animation and light feeding while they try to deal with the ph being off in the medium.

It's hard to make too much out of runoff ph. It does tend to wander. I find that whenever I am having ph problems 98% of the time it's because it's too low. It's almost never too high. The ph seems to like to drop too acidic way more often then the other way around.

Once I get a plant feeding heavily and looking healthy it will actually drag the ph into the correct range. I can feed it a little off and next time I check it's right in range on my heavy feeding plants.

I had some sad plants once that were stuck feeding slow for a few weeks. I had stopped by the grow store and browsed the nutrients. One caught my eye. AN's Revive. It's made for recovering sick plants. They had a small bottle on sale so I picked it up. I had little hope that it would work. I started feeding them with a lite ppm of about 450 with a good spike of the revive. Within about 3-4 days they had color back and were praying.

Just looking at the label it's just a cal/mag supplement with iron. I'm not sure what else is in there but it did work for me.

Since your runoff is way lower then your feed you may have some nutrients locked in there that are influencing ph to drift down and messing up the feed rate. You could try a flush with a flushing supplement like GH florakleen. That stuff is capable of flushing lockout nutrients out of mediums way better then water alone. I've used it in the past to free up lockout and it's never failed to do so in a day. It's especially effective in DWC.

Plants really like sugar. I'm not sure if you're using a molasses substitute like budcandy or anything like that but when you get flowers at the supermarket for your girl one of the best things you can put in the water is a little sugar. They perk right up. My veg plants definitely like budcandy.

If those were my plants they would get a GH florakleen flush for a day if in a medium and a couple of hours if in DWC. After that I would mix a lite 400-500ppm feeding that's heavy on cal/mag/iron and sugars. Since the runoff ph is 5.0 I would try feeding them at about 6.8-7.0 for a day and see if that makes a difference in runoff ph.

 

There is a property of physics I forgot name of that has to do with crystal formation. Once crystals from too much nutrients begin to deposit in the medium they attract more and more of that same element to the crystal deposit as it grows. You feed a bunch of magnesium and it just end up as part of the crystal deposit that is causing lockout. Unless you fully wash it out the crystals will continue to grow and attract elements away from the plant. Once some materials reach high enough concentrations it will prevent uptake of others.