I have looked at charts and it looks like phosphorous deficency... I kind of assumed it might be cal/mag because I use RO water but I have put a couple hundred ml in the resivoir, and my base nutes have it too. I topped the resivoir off with masterblend 10.30.20 and more cal/mag. That was a few days ago. Nothing seems worse. This is week 2 of flower. It is nuken and it hardly stretches, but it seems like they are growing a little slow. Here are some pics of the problems. Those deficiency charts all look the same..... My ph is 6, ppm is about 1000. That's with additives (root wizard, root builder) I have only been using RO for a month, I'm not sure what issues it might have. Thanks! Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
week 2 of flower? when did you change your light schedule? or is an auto? always better to underfeed than over feed i am in week 2 and feeding like 300 ppm this is a crucial time now my friend to figure out whats happening they can go south really fast Good luck maybe cut the nutes back a bit
I dont know a lot about hydro but if you added nutes and the problem hasent gotten worse, you likely did the right thing. Old damage wont ever repair itself. Yellow leaves might get greener but any dry/dead material will not recover.
This is my feeding schedule modified for Hydro I do a complete water change every 7 to 10 days and add florakleen a couple hours before opening up the drains. If the water smells funky change the water. Early veg per 5 gallons 3g magnesium sulfate 6g Calcium Nitrate 6g Masterblend base 12 ml silica Great White at every water change In early veg I keep the PPM’s under 500 (week 1 for well rooted clones) Late veg per 5 gallons PPM’s around 600 (week 2 or 3, depending on size) 6g magnesium sulfate 12g Calcium Nitrate 12g Masterblend base 12 ml silica Early flower, 700 PPM’s or so ( the plants will tell you if you pay attention) And keep ramping up until you see tip burn starting and PH get whacky. For early flowering (week 3 - 4) per 5 gallons 12g magnesium sulfate 2g calcium nitrate 12g Masterblend base 1/2 dose Flower Fuel Mid to late flowering weeks 6-8 per 5 gallons, and Plants should be monsters. 14g magnesium sulfate 1g Calcium Nitrate 14g Masterblend base Full Flower Fuel dose Week before flush 5g magnesium sulfate 5g Masterblend base 1/2 dose Flower Fuel At this stage I’ll be around 900 – 1200, again watch for tip burn.
What kind of light U using? They look awful small for hydro at week 2 of flowering. They look like week 3 of veggin'. The PPM's are to hot for that small of plant. How much air you got pumping? Does it look like water is boiling in each bucket? Air is always pumping, never off. How often do you change your water? Do a water change and use my MB feed chart above. Those old leaves won't recover so you can cut em' off.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm definatly overfeeding from the sounds of it. I am using a 600 w hps. I was following the Lucas formula and had good veg growth. I flipped it thinking they would stretch like crazy. I will take out 1/2 the water. And hopefully they start to bounce back Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
I didn't do a change till I flipped the lights. The water was fine still. Didn't stink. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
I have a question about PPM. Where do bennies and enzymes fit? Do I shoot for 500ppm nutes then add additives or do I include the additives in the 500ppm. And do I only add the additives at a full water change? Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
Hey, thanks for the info. I did a total water change. Silica/Calmag/10.30.20/root wizard/enzymes all added to a ppm of 600. I have a RO filter. I am using a bottle of calmag. I orderd masterblend cal and mag dry. It seems dry fertilizer is the way to go. I'm sure my hydro store will disagree...lol Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
PPM's are with additives in the water. Bennies eat bad stuff like broken roots etc... that could rot and potentially cause root rot. They also help in nutrient uptake to get the most from the roots to make the plant grow. They are a good idea. I use Great White and love it.
I live in Saskatchewan, in Canada. Our temps range from -40c (-40f) - +40c (104f). So root rot is a problem in summer months. I have a chiller, but I struggled in the summer before I bought it. My problem was I was adding my nutes to 600ish..then I added all of my additives. That pushed it up to 1000ppm. The plants are doing ok..nothing looks worse. This forum helps....my hydro store knows nothing other than how to manipulate you into buying stuff that doesn't help. Sent from my Z557BL using Tapatalk