Jock Horror Vs Jack Herrer - 36x20x62 tent grow 1, crx sunny 1500w

Discussion in 'Organic Grow Journals' started by JonInColorado, Jun 16, 2018.

  1. #1 JonInColorado, Jun 16, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
    Hello Everyone! :D

    Welcome to my third grow in my understairs closet grow room (now being done entirely in the tent), and let me first say that it's a bit of a sham, as the second grow is what's actually happening in the closet right now, and the plants that will make up the third grow are in a new grow tent, and won't be moved into the closet until they're done (but actually not at all), and some modifications are made (new fans for the closet, and dedicated grow room power out to the tent (it's currently on basement power)). I like a lot of what grow #2 has done and is doing, and I'm not looking to drastically change the experiment, but I will modify some of the variables. First is water, We got a fancy new RO-Alkaline-UV water filtration system, and I'll be using that for this grow, unless the higher ph is way more than the soil/plant can handle and I need to go back to regular RO, which I find unlikely, but if that is the case I'll just go back to store RO until I can afford a regular RO system without the alkaline re-mineralization and UV thingymajig for just grow water, as transporting 3-gallon jugs of water around was fine until I had 4 plants halfway through flower, now it's wearing a bit, so this grow will be with our system, and we'll find out if that water and the soil I'm using are a good mix or not. Speaking of soil, it's similar to the last time, still ITG's stuff, but with 1/2 cup of rock dust per cf, not 4 cups, and it's cooking now (made 4 cf), let me know if anyone wants the recipe, I started the seeds in roots organic 707 since I was lazy and hadn't made this soil yet, just hoping it cooks by the time these sprouts outgrow their little starter pots and need to be transplanted. Final pot size will be 2-gallon pots again, seems a waste to use anything bigger in this configuration, my light can produce less than 12 oz of smokable weed (theoretically), I'm growing 4 plants, 2 gallons of grow medium is enough to produce 3 oz per plant (at least), 4 plants x 3 oz = 12 oz, so the light isn't capable of growing more weed than 8 gallons of grow medium can produce, that's how the math works in my head anyway, lol.

    The first strain I'm growing is Jock Horror (Nirvana Seeds (again)), because I bought 5 of them and have only grown 2, and I love the way both of the phenotypes I have are growing, the other 2 will be some Jack Herrer (Seedsman) seeds I got free with my order, so not only all sativa, but very similar strains (from what I understand Jock Horror is based on Jack Herrer somehow, whether a phenotype or made from the same parents, I don't know, but it'll be interesting to see how they differ and relate). I used the mainline technique last grow (Nebula's version), and that I don't intend to change, except that I will not be removing any fan leaves this grow, unless severely sickly (detrimental to plant), or so in the dirt that I can't train it out. That's another hypothesis I hope to examine this grow, the idea of fan leaf removal vs non fan leaf removal, I've heard arguments for both, I'm gonna try it and let vague science-ish be my guide, so I will remove only full mummies that fall off in the breeze or from very gently touching it (it has to fall off with no resistance), since I just grew 2 Jock Horrors (doing what most may consider "normal" fan leaf removal), I can note any differences, realizing of course that to be truly scientific I'd have to do a much bigger sampling with multiple strains and blah blah blah, I'm just going for observable differences, with no preconceived notions of what should happen, only an observation of what does happen, if it's significant, that will likely affect future grows, if insignificant, it's still relevant (ie.. if the difference in bud density, overall weight, trichome production, grow time and speed, smell and "it" factor of the weed (extreme giggliness, the woooooooooooah factor, floating around in space, extreme focus, the unique things all strains have), if none of those improve by the rigid non-removal of fan leaves, than in future grows I'll cut when convenient.

    OK, wordy intro, sorry, I like to document my thought processes thoroughly so that I can re-examine them later, figure out what preconceptions I may cling to too much, and which ones should be more closely observed.

    Anywho, here's the space with the unsprouted pots with soil.
    [​IMG]

    Cheers :love-m3j:
     
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  2. #2 JonInColorado, Jun 16, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
    Hello again 5 minutes later

    So I have already planted and sprouted all 4 seeds, using the same "technique" as last time, which is push finger in dirt about 1/4-1/2 inch, drop seed in, any orientation, cover and water soil to runoff, let sit until sprouts happen, 8 out of 8 so far, which is way better than the paper towel method for me, which I probably did wrong, but this works so well, I see no reason to do anything differently. But I thought about it, and they're all methods that mimic nature and work, some seeds end up in the dirt, some between leaves (like paper towels), which the taproots could grow through the leaves and down into the soil, and some probably end up in streams and get carried down river only to be lodged into the embankment and grow (like the soaking in water method). So I begrudge no one their choice of germination method, find them all valid, and will likely only do this one.

    The Jock Horror seeds were the first to sprout, I will say these are some eager seeds, all 4 have popped in under 3 days. Had one helmet head (Jack Herrer #2), just like last grow, but this time I got a humidity dome over it earlier on, and kept it moist, after it was out of the ground a half an inch or so I tried to get it off with tweezers, but only managed to crack it up a bit, which was enough for the starter leave to start breaking out, then there was that thing that seeds sometimes leave on the starter leaves that keeps them from opening, and I had to get that off, but it's fine now, 5 days behind the oldest, no problem.

    [​IMG]

    The oldest are now about a week old, last grow I kept the light 3 ft away for like 2 weeks, this time I moved it to 24" away as soon as everyone was out. The pictures won't be quite as good in the tent, as mylar tent material is a more challenging background than flat white painted walls, but it'll be better when there's more than black plastic and reflective mylar to focus on. I'll post updates every Friday, and also whenever something noteworthy happens. I forgot to mention in the first post, this grow won't necessarily be water-only, I may top-dress with ewc, we'll see. If my results from grow #2 are good enough, I may do another water-only run, just to keep it closer to the last grow, so I can more accurately determine whether the fan leaf removal thing makes a big difference or not. (I kind of abandoned this idea, just gonna top-dress freely 7/6)

    See you all next Friday :love-m3j:
     
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  3. #3 JonInColorado, Jun 16, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
    I forgot to mention, in the light is a CRX Sunny "1500W" LED, not the Dwarf Star, so this grow will be roughly 25% CRX Sunny light, 75% Perfect Sun Dwarf Star, I doubt that'll make a huge difference, but in the interest of honesty, I thought I should mention it. This is no longer true, I'm doing the whole grow in the tent, with the crx sunny.
     
  4. Hey buddy what size is your space?
    Looked through there and couldnt spot it.

    your sun dwarf is 230w, your crx is 250w.

    With blurples like that you want around 50w per square foot.
    So both of them together can just about cover a 1m x 1m space propperly.

    I use very similar lights and do well with them. Not the best or most efficient lights but they do the job



    Sent from my SM-J330FN using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
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  5. Nice set up

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
     
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  6. It's effectively 3x3.

    thanks :)
     
  7. Impromptu update, girls were a bit under watered yesterday, the jock's really showed it, so I watered to runoff, second time of this grow, they're all looking great now except Jock Horror #4 (I've decided to keep numbers sequential throughout subsequent grows (jock horrors 1 and 2 are flowering in the closet as part of grow #2) who looks very sad and near death, my camera absolutely will not focus on her or jack herrer 1, couldn't tell you why.

    Jack Herrer 1
    [​IMG]

    Jack Herrer 2 - She was the helmet head that came out 5 days after the jocks
    [​IMG]

    Jock Horror 3
    [​IMG]

    Jock Horror 4
    [​IMG]

    Not sure what's wrong with the little feller, might be a 3-plant grow, we'll see.
     
  8. And then there were 3 :(
    [​IMG]
    Guess we'll see how 3 plants do in the closet.
     
  9. Update - Friday, 06/22/18 - oldest is 13 days old.

    I'm now slowly watering to runoff whenever they start drooping a little, jock 3 is a bit yellow, but still quite happy. I'm considering growing these out completely in the tent, which would mean renaming or moving the journal, which I haven't looked into yet. I have exactly 4 feminized purchased seeds left (amidst a mountain of bagseeds) that I think would be better in the closet, since it's growing space is more or less square. I can still move these into the closet for a day or 2 while I put the duct fan into the grow tent platform (somehow) and get the airflow right so they actually have room to grow without the tent walls getting sucked in so much.

    Then once all those grows are done, it's gonna be bagseed jamborie time all the time until they're gone, i might even buy another tent and light (if possible) and grow in a perpetual cycle so that I'm not flowering more than the legal limit at any one time (dumb laws, I'd rather plant 'em ALL outside in no-till beds and grow trees..... someday).

    [​IMG]

    I think today's the last day I'm gonna mist the topsoil, I think their root balls are big enough now to where they don't need it anymore.

    Happy Weekend Everyone :love-m3j:
     
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  10. Update - Saturday, 06/30/18 - oldest is 21 days old.

    Little jack 2 is a week behind the other 2, put her up on a brick to get closer to the light, the other 2 are great, their new soil should be fully cooked in a week or so and I think they'll be about ready for transplant by then (if not sooner). I did a 16/8 light cycle for the first couple weeks with the last grow and this grow, but forgot about it until today, so they got 3 weeks of a shorter light cycle and are now on 18/6. Moved the fans around a bit, trying to make the best until I can actually fix the airflow issue, the closet grow has about a week+ left, then I'm gonna dry in there too, probably, but once all that weed is in jars, I can move these girls into the closet and fix the tent platform thing. I renamed the journal, as I'm gonna finish these out in the tent.

    [​IMG]

    Jack Herrer 1
    [​IMG]

    Jack Herrer 2
    [​IMG]

    Jock Horror 3
    [​IMG]

    Happy Weekend Everyone! :love-m3j:
     
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  11. Ask Papa Puff about #2 and if it's light burnt, overwatered, nutrient deficient or too much nitrogen. He will know. Been growing forever.
     
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  12. I have it at more than 24" away from the light, so I wouldn't think burn, I think it's mostly the Roots 707 that they're in, last grow I started in my final cooked soil and didn't have any problems with yellowing/dying. I didn't get around to mixing my new soil (which needs a month to cook) until It was time to plant these, and 707 is what i had, and I've been working under the assumption that if I run into problems before transplant, it's probably just the 707 being too hot for delicate sprouts, I shoulda just used some peat and perlite and ewc like everyone else, buuuut I used all my ewc making the los and didn't wanna drive to the grow shop, lol. I try to view everything as a learning experience, and I've learned that cooked los is fantastic to stick your seeds in, and 707 is less good, so I'll probably either use cooked los soil or peat pods in the future. As for Jack #2, she's fine, got a drink yesterday and reaching for the light, I'm relatively certain that the yellowing is nute burn, and her next set of leaves will look fine. I did use this soil (with some dr earth dry fertilizer) for my first grow, and the sprouts more or less did the same thing, if I remember correctly, although I planted them differently.

    Sorry kinda rambly, woke up with a joint :love-m3j:
     
  13. Would you be willing to share your "cooked" soil recipe?
    I used fox farm ocean forest to sprout and grow in 1 gallon pots until I had to move them to 3 gallon fabric pots. I filled those with standard potting soil(not mix) with plant food in it and made a hole with a spare 1 gal. pot so I could drop them right in. Worked great. But the girls did need some supplements.
     
  14. lol, of course, it's just InTheGarden's recipe (Easy Organic Soil Mix for Beginners), modified to have 1/2 cup of rock dust per cf instead of 4 (!). I'll just copy paste the text file I made.


    A Basic Living Organic Soil Recipe


    This should make roughly 1 cubic foot (7.5 gallons) of soil

    Base Soil

    • 2 1/2 gallons Canadian Sphangnum peat moss
    • 1 ¼ gallons Compost
    • 1 ¼ gallons Earthworm Castings
    • 2 1/2 gallons perlite/pumice/vermiculite

    • 1 cup dolomite lime
    • 2-3 cups total of all nutritional amendments
    • 1/2 Cup Rock Dust (azomite is fine)
    Nutritional Amendments (DO NOT add these amounts to the soil, mix these in a container)

    • 1 Cup Dry Organic Fertilizer
    • 1 Cup Alfalfa Meal
    • 1 Cup crab meal
    • 1 Cup Neem Seed Meal (or neem meal, or neem cake)
    • 2 Cups Kelp Meal
    Mix all these Amendments together in their own container and put 2-3 cups Total into the base soil mix, leave the rest in the container and save for the next time you build new soil :).

    Once your base soil and nutritional amendments have been thoroughly mixed, moisten the soil by adding water and mixing until the soil is about as damp as a well-wrung out sponge. Now let the soil sit for 3-4 weeks to allow the microbes to begin to break down the amendments and convert the nutrients into a form that the plant can use. This process of nutrient cycling is also referred to as "cooking". Neither heat nor the sun are required, the soil can "cook" inside just fine. You can go ahead and fill up the pots you plan to use and let the soil "cook" in the pots. You can moisten the soil with an ACT if desired to help jump-start the nutrient cycling process.

    I'm currently doing a water-only run with this soil (+ 3 1/2 cups rock dust) (Second grow, understairs closet, LOS, mainline?) I definitely have deficiencies, but they're growing great! This grow I'm adding top-dressing to the weekly or biweekly regimen, earthworm castings for starters, may add other stuff, I'll search around for good top-dress recipes.
     
  15. Here's Jack Herrer 2 this morning, her newer growth has less yellowing and she's looking happy :)

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Yeah! Looks much better!
     
  17. Update - Friday, 7/6/18 - oldest is 27 days old.

    Good week in the tent, Jock 3 is now the biggest and definitely ready for transplant, I'll do that tomorrow along with Jack 1.

    [​IMG]

    Jack Herrer 1
    [​IMG]

    Jock Horror 3
    [​IMG]

    Happy Weekend Everyone! :love-m3j:
     
  18. Awesome..looks like they've mostly grown out of the deficiencies. Now I've got nitrogen toxicity!..trying to straighten it out today.;)
     
  19. Oh yeah. Thanks for the dirt recipe!!
     

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